Nice touch! Is it hinged at the top or the bottom?

It's hinged at the bottom with a handle (same as throughout MH) centered and horizontal at the top.

Factory service update
 

So far everything that got fixed or improved has been satisfactory. EXCEPT: 1. The door open sense switch was replaced and wired EXACTLY like it was in the factory. Wrong thing to do. When it failed the first time I just assumed it was the switch and made a temp repair with a new switch. Within hours of leaving with the new factory installed switch we stopped for gas and steps would not close!!!! Tech note - steps close on open circuit and extend on an short circuit. If your steps won't close - try cutting one of the two step switch wires. If the steps won't extend try cutting both wires and shorting ends together. Now why it failed - wires from switch were run across door frame and UNDER door trim. Pressure squeezed insulation resulting in bare wire and allowed metal trim to short the pair. When switch removed insulation damage could not be seen without close examination. If you door switch wires go under the trim, I highly recommend that the wires be routed over the trim or some physical protection be provided for the wires. As a temp repair all I had to do was loosen the trim and put electrical tape on the wires. When we get to our summer location I will drill a small channel between the trim and door frame.
2. The missing window trim that got installed came out in one corner on the second day. Let me tell you that was exciting. Flopping in the wind it sounded like a tire shredding. Temp fix was to remove it. Will find an auto glass shop and get to reinstalled. Suspect there is some kind of adhesive that should have been used.

You are the man Chuck! Its a good thing you are so handy. Best of luck on the rest of the cross country trip. Sorry we couldn't meet up in the Midwest this time.

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 

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Once in a while we have no choice but to accept a spot with only thirty amps service. Usually that is not a problem. Our old coach was 30 and we had no problem heating with electric and knew just how many devices we could use at the same time. Last two mornings we popped the park 30 amp breaker "living normally." I was ready to head for the office to report a weak breaker when I decided to think about it some more. Finally figured it out. Electric water heater equals one space heater. According to spec's the heating element is 1,400 watts. Solution - just turn off electric water heater and go back to living normally.

Biggest issue you overlooked is AC. Your scenario works okay in cold or moderate weather; but not in hot. Give me 50 amp anyday.

Customer not always right!
 

In response to customers comments about it being hard to reach the first step of the ladder - Thor made it longer so the first step is closer to the ground. Guess what - it was right the first time. Next time you walk by rear end look at how low the bottom step is - it extends well below the hitch receiver. While at the factory another Challenger was in with ladder broken off at the bottom. Happened going into a gas station. We talked about possible fixes and the best I could think of at the time was to add a hinge. Only found one that looked like it would work.
206198ALT - RV Ladder Hinge 1 PAIR - Price: $13.95 - Factory RV Surplus - 1611 W Bristol St, Elkhart, IN 46514 (800) 325-1461 (574) 262-3327
My "DO" list just got longer

My ladder bottom is already scraped flat due to two gas station exits that had more of a dip than I realized. When I hear it scrape, I consider it an early warning before I strike the hitch, or worse, the rear cap trim. :whistling:

FYI all, they make a steel wheel that pins to your hitch that acts as a "tail dragger" to keep the hitch off the road or driveway. They are sold at Camping World and other RV stores. I use mine all the time to get across a high water bridge we built on my property. Its a little steep climb but that wheel takes all the abuse and saves my hitch and chrome tailpipe

Yes, I damaged the bottom of mine when backing into a site in Mesa that had the sites raised so stormwater could run down the street. I don't think it would have hit except I thought I would be smart and take advantage of the fact that the site (same raised lip) accross the way was empty. I pulled into it; then backed across street. Combinations of lips did me in. Haven't had the problem in a gas station (knocking on wood).

Drive with open frameless windows?
 

Have not seen anything in Thor printed material re: do or don't and only a few forum comments about not doing it for fear of damage. So I decided to go for it and drive with them open while we are still under wty. Started in windy MT and have over 500 miles of use so far with no problem or hint of problems. We will use them from now on whenever we want air flow and save the a'cond for hotter days. We do open them all the way.

We often leave a BR window open for the cats when we are underway on a hot day. Have not had any problem.

Did you order these? Are they made of metal?


Ted

Someone asked about the passenger side windshield wiper flipping over to the driver side. It was some time ago, and I could not find the post.

Regardless, I had this happen as well. I just wanted to report that after this was "fixed" under warranty when on a trip at Albuquerque, NM, it happened again.

I took it in to be repaired this time and they said it is because of the mechanism within the engine compartment versus the outside wiper arm or those related parts.

Thor has stepped up and will replace the entire wiper mechanism this time, even though it is out of warranty by a couple of months.


Ted