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Webman9113 05-14-2016 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by handyman1943 (Post 3067849)
Since we dry camp a fair amount, I was always concerned by the wear and tear on the pump (and the noise) when just running a small stream of water -- brushing teeth, washing fruit, etc. Several units ago, I purchased and installed a 2 gallon pressure tank (Menards?) for about $30. I teed it in very close to the output of the pump. Now when we are hooked up to city water, the tank takes on a little over a gallon of water. When dry camping, the tank provided about a gallon of water before the pump turns on. The pump then runs to meet the immediate demand and then runs enough to refill the pressure tank.
I like the fact that the pump doesn't cycle on and off when running a small stream of water. Saves on the pump and my nerves!

Funny you should mention the water pump: ours isn't working. I haven't had a chance to check it out yet. Oy!

Webman9113 05-14-2016 06:56 PM

I finally got all the crap, er, cables and stuff in the A/V cabinet sorted out. I installed a fan with temp control, hooked up the two Dish receivers (one has a USB drive for DVR), HDMI splitters (to take off the HDCP protection of some Dish programming), and got everything plugged in. I had to daisy chain two power strips to get enough outlets for the electronics (the stupid wall warts waste half of them) and plugged them into the inverter outlets. I checked the total draw with a Kill-A-Watt and it was under 2 amps. The outlet behind the fireplace (which is on a separate circuit, not on the inverter) is wired wrong, with polarity reversed, but I wasn't comfortable messing with it, as it's in an awkward spot. However, the receptacle on the same circuit that's inside the right A/V cabinet is wired *correctly*. Go figure. So I just plugged the fireplace in there (a bit under 12 amps).

So the only thing left to do circuit-wise is to figure out how to fix the wiring to the USB charging station. I may have to bring in a mobile repair guy to sort that out.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...045f6996ef.jpg

M72561 05-15-2016 05:44 PM

Lyons
Did you happen to save measurements for the placement of your 2 x 2 pieces of plywood.I am also saving the shelf behind the recliners.Also I'm assuming you used the #12 x2 screws to screw the plywood down thru the hollow metal studs.What other hardware did you use. thanks. Mark

Rsapp 05-16-2016 07:34 AM

Ready Brake Info
 
Does anyone on here use the Ready Brake for pulling a Jeep Unlimited 4door if so could you provide a little info on the system and if it works well with this vehicle. I also have a 2015 Thor challenger 37KT and need to get a brake system to pull the Jeep.

Thanks,
Russ

Webman9113 05-16-2016 08:47 AM

Quick question for anyone with a 2014.5 37KT: is there a second water pump switch, other than the one on the main panel in the hallway?

ctpres 05-16-2016 09:02 AM

Webman - "The outlet behind the fireplace (which is on a separate circuit, not on the inverter) is wired wrong, with polarity reversed, but I wasn't comfortable messing with it, as it's in an awkward spot."
Pretty sure you will find a metal electrical junction box in basement under slide near front end. Look in area near flexable cable hole in floor. You might be able to fix wire error there a bit easier. I tried working with RV style outlets and gave up. Much easier to just use residential type with screw terminals. I am sure factory has a special tool used to press wires into those prongs

ctpres 05-16-2016 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsapp (Post 3070202)
Does anyone on here use the Ready Brake for pulling a Jeep Unlimited 4door if so could you provide a little info on the system and if it works well with this vehicle. I also have a 2015 Thor challenger 37KT and need to get a brake system to pull the Jeep.

Thanks,
Russ

We used Ready Brake to pull a 1990 Jeep Sport for over 30,000 miles behind a 33 foot gaser. Only had one problem and that was cable getting hung up on wierd turns. Solved that by welding big washer to guide cable on top of tow bar. Cable install on Jeep was a DIY project that went well. Not real fast install but easy enough. I used Harbor Freight A frame tow bar and bolted it directly to the bumper. With magnetic lights you can't get a new braking system cheeper than that combination. Original Ready Brake on it's second coach (now KT) and car (now Fiesta S) and still doing a great job. Did not pull Jeep behind our KT - hopefully some can answer that part.

M72561 05-16-2016 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 3061664)
The shelf is a few inches lower than the seat backs but the DW still uses the shelf to charge her cell phone & tablet. If parked for a long time, she also puts decorations on the shelf. You can only see the shelf if you put the recliners in the fully reclined position.


I have a 2014KT and I think my shelf behind the cabinet has to come out. I also have to notch the plywood no matter which way I install the recliners because my cables are 18' apart. I tried to lay the recliner out flat but in order to do so the front of the recliner frame on the plywood will be cantilevered almost 12" over the platform.In your photo with the shelf in place it looks like your plywood extends 9-10" over that platform.

Webman9113 05-16-2016 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 3070337)
Webman - "The outlet behind the fireplace (which is on a separate circuit, not on the inverter) is wired wrong, with polarity reversed, but I wasn't comfortable messing with it, as it's in an awkward spot."
Pretty sure you will find a metal electrical junction box in basement under slide near front end. Look in area near flexable cable hole in floor. You might be able to fix wire error there a bit easier. I tried working with RV style outlets and gave up. Much easier to just use residential type with screw terminals. I am sure factory has a special tool used to press wires into those prongs

Yes, I know exactly which metal junction box you mean. But since I was able to plug everything in to the "good" receptacles without overloading anything, I'm just going to not worry about it. ;-)

If I can figure out how to fix the USB charging station, I'll be done with the behind the fireplace work and can reinstall it. Of course, that still leaves the mystery of the water pump!

LyonsL 05-16-2016 03:17 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by M72561 (Post 3070668)
I have a 2014KT and I think my shelf behind the cabinet has to come out. I also have to notch the plywood no matter which way I install the recliners because my cables are 18' apart. I tried to lay the recliner out flat but in order to do so the front of the recliner frame on the plywood will be cantilevered almost 12" over the platform.In your photo with the shelf in place it looks like your plywood extends 9-10" over that platform.

M72561, there is 14" between the back of my plywood pieces and the cabinet (lots of good storage). The front of the plywood extends 9-1/4" over the slide platform. When the recliners are bolted in place, the front of the recliner frame is aligned with the front lip of the plywood.

I used nine #12 x 1-1/2" sheet metal screws to anchor each piece of plywood to the floor. I used #12 x 2" sheet metal screws to attach the rear frame of the recliners to the plywood. I used 1/4" x 1-1/2" bolts & washers to attach the front frame of the recliners to the plywood.

I have two suggestions for you. Before the final install of the recliners...

First, I bent out the retaining clips on the backs of the recliners so they do not "lock" into place when installed. Now I can easily lift and remove the backs to gain access to the storage between the cabinet and the recliners.

Second, I painted (black) pieces of 3/4" x 2-1/2" pine trim and glued them to the exposed frame of the slide floor with "quick grip" construction adhesive. I also painted the front edges of the plywood pieces. Now it looks great with the recliners installed.

LyonsL 05-16-2016 03:36 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Webman9113 (Post 3070303)
Quick question for anyone with a 2014.5 37KT: is there a second water pump switch, other than the one on the main panel in the hallway?

Webman9113, my 2015 37KT does not have a second water pump switch. My factory pump just died on me after only 1-1/2 years! I'm not real happy about that so I decided to upgrade to a better pump and in-line strainer. I've always had good luck with Shurflo pumps.

Webman9113 05-16-2016 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 3070885)
Webman9113, my 2015 37KT does not have a second water pump switch. My factory pump just died on me after only 1-1/2 years! I'm not real happy about that so I decided to upgrade to a better pump and in-line strainer. I've always had good luck with Shurflo pumps.

Okay, good to know about there being no second switch! I didn't think there was, but one never knows. I first checked with my voltmeter to see if the pump was getting power, checking the wires coming to the pump: it was not. Then I checked the fuse (#9, 15A): it was fine.

Then I pulled the control panel in the hallway and checked the switch. It has two purple wires running to it, one on top and one on bottom (relative to one another), with a red wire terminal in between. I pulled the wires off and put the test leads to them: the top purple wire + red wire showed 12V; the bottom purple wire + red wire showed 0V.

Alas, unless someone has a brilliant idea for something else to try, I think I'm going to have to break down and call someone in to fix this. Not that it probably matters, but I'm a bit perplexed that there are three wires going to the switch, as if it was a 3-way. I would have thought if it was a single pole that you'd only have hot and ground. It could also just be that the switch is bad. The one that controls the main slide went bad on us not long after we had the coach. Humph...

Webman9113 05-16-2016 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 3070885)
Webman9113, my 2015 37KT does not have a second water pump switch. My factory pump just died on me after only 1-1/2 years! I'm not real happy about that so I decided to upgrade to a better pump and in-line strainer. I've always had good luck with Shurflo pumps.

You know, here's a really dumb question: does the water pump stop running if the water level gets too low in the tank? We typically only run with 1/4 tank or so, and if we ran it down enough, maybe the pump is smart enough to not run??

EDIT: Oh, wait: I think when I tried to sanitize the tank we filled it all the way up and the pump wouldn't work. Oy.

LyonsL 05-16-2016 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webman9113 (Post 3070989)
You know, here's a really dumb question: does the water pump stop running if the water level gets too low in the tank? We typically only run with 1/4 tank or so, and if we ran it down enough, maybe the pump is smart enough to not run??

EDIT: Oh, wait: I think when I tried to sanitize the tank we filled it all the way up and the pump wouldn't work. Oy.

If you have a second switch for the water pump, I believe it would be located in the water bay, somewhere near the pump. My previous coach had one there so you could turn the pump on or off to use the outside shower.


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