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Which slide is it> If it has the swintech slide you should be able to follow the procedure in the manual to disconnect the controller usually in the bay beneath the slide and push the slide in with a couple of people. If it's the slide with the cable I can't help you, but you may look up Larry Lyons and PM him. I know has worked on his slide with the cable. Good Luck
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Steve, Thanks for the input, and I always like the input you have on the Outlaw thread... |
Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
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Shell, Let us know how it is going... Were you able to get it working? Did the feedback help? |
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Yes, one of the smaller, front electrical slides. No screws seem to be loose and binding. None of the methods for disengaging the motors seems to work to make the room pushable. Both RV Techs that I actually reached (one was 1500 miles away for the summer) concluded the same thing, none of which is talked about in this thread so far, a broken shear pin. Unfortunately, Thor encloses the whole basements (walls and ceiling) so I can't see any of the mechanicals for the slide. I don't know how the techs would get to it but they must know how. Thanks for all the suggestions. |
Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
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But, with a 2014.5 Challenger 37KT, with the Schwintek slide drive mechanism, I would not think so... In fact, the access would not be through the bay, as was the case with the older slide mechanism that had rails under the slide that were in the bay... Regardless, good luck in getting some help, and I hope that they have some experience with the newer Schwintek system... Frankly, it does not seem that the Tech's you talked to do, so I would suggest that you show them the clips that Steve provided... |
Is the slide on the curb side with seat belts? If so it could be it is getting hung up on the T-Bars that are for safety to keep the slide from ever completely coming out with people seat belted. If the slide got out of alignment this could be your problem and why you can't push it in manually. There are two access plates in the two bays under this slide, but I wouldn't recommend working on this if you are not very handy!
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Lesson in battery maintenance
On my seemingly endless list of things to do for our 37KT before we leave on Saturday morning for Yellowstone (I can't believe it's only a few more days!), I did some long overdue battery maintenance today, and it's a good thing I did!
First, a bunch of white powder/crystals had formed on the buckles and hooks of the battery tie-down strap for the house batteries. When I cleaned that off, I discovered that the crud had eaten away the buckle to the point that it just crumbled into pieces. I ordered a pair of new straps (one to use, one to keep as a spare) from Amazon and got that sorted out after cleaning out the compartment. Then I finally installed the FloRite RV-2000 battery watering system that I've had sitting around for heaven knows how long. I got a gallon jug of distilled water, attached the hand pump, primed it, and started adding water. And adding. And adding. By the time I was done, the two batteries had taken in nearly half a gallon of water! The poor things, I felt really bad. :( So, the moral of the story, I suppose, is to make sure you check the water level in your batteries on a regular basis. I also highly recommend the RV-2000. It was a bit of a pain trying to get it on because of the battery cables, which I had to loosen a bit so I could swivel them around, but once that was done, filling was a snap. Moreover, subsequent battery water checks will also be a snap. On to the next item on the list... |
Spare Parts
Just found one more I needed. In replacing whole house water filter I discovered canister 3.5 inch o-ring was missing. No o-ring no water. Note: selling dealer tech solved problem by just cranking canister super tight. Filter not an easy item to find on short notice. Recommend it as a spare part along with some plumbers silicone paste that is needed for installation.
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Here are a couple pics of the "finalized" outside TV installation on our 37KT.
The TV is mounted on an Omnimount that can swing out, drop down, and turn, so you can position the TV so as to see it from just about any angle on the curb side of the rig. https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...9b761e189b.jpg To stow for travel, you just push it back into the enclosure, then secure it with two velcro straps that are pinned in place by the aluminum angle "shelf" I bolted to the original metal TV enclosure. https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...57c3df6721.jpg When I get more time, I'll cut away some of the unneeded bits of the metal housing and paint the innards black to pretty it up a bit, but for now it's functional and ready to travel... |
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As for the straps, here are the ones I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PL4H0O It worked perfectly, just needed to be trimmed a bit. |
Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
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Glad you got it fixed, and that it was just as expected, versus something more extreme.... It is good to get your follow up as this impacts us all at some point... Just remember that this can happen in several ways, even if you start to extend, then change directions for some reason without fully extending (or retracting). If the motors loose their zero point, that is what can happen. At least you will have a better clue of what to do next time... That is the best part of most problems, they better prepare us for the future problems... Thanks. |
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