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Netmeetme 04-13-2017 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2915781)
Thanks Bruce. My problem isn't removing the frosted glass cover; it is how to remove the bulb after the cover is off. Also, where to get replacement bulbs (halogen or LED). Do you know a part number for the bulb? where did you buy them? Thanks.

remove the cover, then remove the three screws pull straight down cut the black and white wires, replace with like unit. might have to get the whole puck assy as opposed to just the led wafer.

sbleiweiss 04-14-2017 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Netmeetme (Post 3548248)
remove the cover, then remove the three screws pull straight down cut the black and white wires, replace with like unit. might have to get the whole puck assy as opposed to just the led wafer.

Yes thanks. We found them and have replaced 5. Bought enough to replace every light in the coach as need be. As I recall we found them for $5 each on e-bay.

ctpres 04-19-2017 11:49 AM

More mods fixes and upgrades
 
#101 How I leveled our Challenger for leveling system calibration. Full timing means not always having the right tool for every job so we improvise a lot. In this case the end result is better IMO. Use fresh water hose as level. Fill with water and have helper hold one end at bottom edge of wall to basement trim line near front cap. Hold other end at*rear trim line (closer to rear cap the better) and refill with water moving end*up or down till hose full and no water running out of either end. Difference in distance from trim line is amount of change needed to make level. Say rear three inches below trim - will need to drop front three. Same for side* to side level just run hose under coach.

ctpres 04-19-2017 12:23 PM

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#102 One reported problem is popping jacks and I think I get it now. The most frequent possible solution mentioned is mounting bolts not torqued correctly. I just found this Lippert solution - https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/s...heets/0295.pdf Adding anti-stiction fluid on the Thor forum. After a lot of reading - adding stiction fluid solution to popping creaking jacks makes more sense than mounting bolt torque. Temp changes cause fluid to expand and contract. Eventually enough pressure change and ram or jack leg moves. If ram can not move (it is sticking in place) with small pressure changes, it will jump and pop when it finally does move. The pressure change could also be from weight transfer due to walking around inside. We frequently get jerky and uneven drops when retracting jacks. Freaks DW out it is so violent sometimes. The retracting problem helps me believe jacks are sticking. Anti-Stiction fluid is a special lub that helps overcome the sticking. So what I am doing to reduce popping: #1 Always add blocks to fill void between ground and jack pad before leveling. That reduces volume of fluid under pressure and consequently the impact of expansion and contraction due to temp changes. And it gives a more stable RV due to less room for flexing jack shaft. #2 Added "Maxima Fork Oil Grade 15" motorcycle fork oil - an LCi approved anti-stiction fluid. Just follow instructions in the link above to reduce the pressure needed for ram movement. The anti-stiction fluid will help with the walking around and retraction problems. I don't think it is possible to totally eliminate the popping but I know we have a much quitter coach. I used a large syringe for removing fluid.Turkey baster would work but could not use it again for cooking.

ctpres 04-19-2017 02:20 PM

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1 Attachment(s)
#103 Finally got our shower set-up to be more user friendly. Our faucet assembly was installed upside down, that resulted in frequent handle bumping and unexpected hot or cold water. Also put unnecessary stress on the hose. Now the hose hangs down and the shut-off valve is easier to reach on the bottom. The shower hose guide on the wall was removed for more reach with the hand held shower head and we added a 3m Command satin finish soap dish that mounts with water resistant command strips. Installed it between the two shelves. Command™ Bath Satin Nickel Soap Dish So far the soap dish is the most appreciated addition. Lots of air around the bar so it does not sit in a puddle and get soggy.

tedgard01 04-19-2017 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 3557829)
#103 Finally got our shower set-up to be more user friendly. Our faucet assembly was installed upside down, that resulted in frequent handle bumping and unexpected hot or cold water. Also put unnecessary stress on the hose. Now the hose hangs down and the shut-off valve is easier to reach on the bottom. The shower hose guide on the wall was removed for more reach with the hand held shower head and we added a 3m Command satin finish soap dish that mounts with water resistant command strips. Installed it between the two shelves. Command™ Bath Satin Nickel Soap Dish So far the soap dish is the most appreciated addition. Lots of air around the bar so it does not sit in a puddle and get soggy.



Nice job!

logalinipoo 04-19-2017 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 3557829)
#103 Finally got our shower set-up to be more user friendly. Our faucet assembly was installed upside down, that resulted in frequent handle bumping and unexpected hot or cold water. Also put unnecessary stress on the hose. Now the hose hangs down and the shut-off valve is easier to reach on the bottom. The shower hose guide on the wall was removed for more reach with the hand held shower head and we added a 3m Command satin finish soap dish that mounts with water resistant command strips. Installed it between the two shelves. Command™ Bath Satin Nickel Soap Dish So far the soap dish is the most appreciated addition. Lots of air around the bar so it does not sit in a puddle and get soggy.


Nice, I did almost identical the first week. I used a different soap dish. One that cups the soap so we can drive with it too.

I didn't remove the hose keper, but I pulled the hose out of it. I didn't want to leave holes.

I want to install an adjustable bar so we can angle the shower head as desired and my son can lower it to his height.

We get a little water leakage out of the door. When he showers it sprays over his head on the door and can make a mess. The bar will let it point down off the wall and lower to not go over his head.

sbleiweiss 04-20-2017 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 3558414)
Nice job!

Likewise. I wish ours had the two shelves you do. Thanks for the pix.

ctpres 04-21-2017 01:15 PM

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#104 This one is a "two-fer." For almost two years I have been looking for an elusive bump-bump that only happens during some quicker than normal stops. And once in awhile the windshield sun shade falls out of the track due to the bar being a bit short. During a recent stop I happened to be looking at the traffic light and saw the shade swing forward - fall back and bounce off the pillar cover that also acts as a track to the powered shade. I put some one inch sticky one side felt furniture pads on the ends of the bar. Only had half of the pad stuck on the end - the other half stuck out past the end making the bar longer. It works - no more bump-bump and shade stays in track.

ctpres 04-21-2017 03:58 PM

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2 Attachment(s)
#105 We keep our KantLeak selector valve in City Fixtures position at all times. Works fine on pump or city water modes with no valve changes required other that to fill fresh water tank. Recently I was replacing water hose gaskets and had city water shut off at the post. DW needed water and just turned on the pump as usual. Water started pouring out the city connection. Check valve failed. Put male hose plug on city water connection and kept on working. Could not see just exactly how city fitting was secured to panel. Even using camera I could not figure it out. Bought Valterra A01-0170LF White 2-3/4" MPT Lead-Free Flush Mount Water Inlet. To install I had to remove the KanLeak panel and disconnect at least three water connections in the rear before there was enough slack to see back of valve. No c-clip and no nut - bad news. Valve was secured with a push-on lock washer. The only way to get the valve out is to use a screwdriver and pry the lock washer off. NOT an easy job. Just a little work with a file to enlarge the hole and new valve slipped right in. Three screws and done. Disconnecting hoses was easy as they all were hand tight fittings. Just mark or somehow remember where each hose came from. Other than the lock washer it was an easy job. Buy a male hose cap for your plumbing box in case your valve fails. Cheap part to save a camping trip if your check valve fails. One pic shows old valve and lock washer. The other - the new valve.

ctpres 04-22-2017 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 3558864)
Likewise. I wish ours had the two shelves you do. Thanks for the pix.

Look at this shower caddy. It really does hold quite a bit of stuff. Uses command strip mounting. We used one for about two years with no problems.
Command™ Bath Shower Caddy

sbleiweiss 04-22-2017 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 3562005)
Look at this shower caddy. It really does hold quite a bit of stuff. Uses command strip mounting. We used one for about two years with no problems.
Command™ Bath Shower Caddy

We use one that hangs on the shower wall with a over door type hook at top of wall. Would be nice to have shelves like yours though.

fluffybunny 05-04-2017 01:34 PM

Hey everyone, I ended up putting a deposit down today on a unit and starting to get all of my items I will need ordered. One question I have that I've never really figured out is how does everyone manage the dual grey tanks? Do you wye them together outside of the coach? Or do you move the sewer pipe when you want to empty the 2nd grey tank?

Also just wanting to make sure I'm correct, the kitchen sink + washer dryer if you ahve it would go on the front grey tank(the one by itself) and the shower bathroom sink go to the rear grey tank(one near the black tank)

Also any recommended brands for sewer hoses? and would you recommend that I get the hose support? This is my first RV so wanting to set myself up the best I can. I am for sure going to get the clear elbow to see when water runs clear when dumping.

KC 05-04-2017 02:39 PM

On my 15KT the only thing that goes in the front Gray tank is the washer. Kitchen and bathroom both empty into back Gray.

KC


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