Hello, the monitor in settings may be stating your wall remotes near the sofa and bath that control the lights need new batteries. They are not hard wired and pop off the wall pretty easily.

Sbleiweiss and Pesky1 thank you for the replies, yesterday I found the seat switch (just did not lean far enough) and discovered the controls are powered by button batteries. I was going to post a question about quality but looking thru the forum I have found that answer. We have already had our share of problems when we picked up our RV the inverter would fault for low power, since we drove a rental car in and had to get back home the dealer said they would take care of us, and has been good. I discovered one of the house batteries had a hole which I replaced and they reimbursed me for the new ones. Then at times the inverter would lose 4-6 volts from the battery, turned out it was corrosion from the battery leak. In 12 hours the battery connections would look like they had not been cleaned for over a year (moving them caused a change in volts), I had new ones made and they covered that. Passenger window leaked (blocked drain holes), gas hot water heater burning lean/ sooty (stink bugs in the mixing tube), bed slide would stick, pop and the bed was sagging, water was also leaking in with it closed. I discovered the rollers under the bed were not adjusted properly (1" lower the slide opening) this caused the bed frame to sag (frame cracked) and all the other issues, the dealer picked it up and delivered it back after fixing the bed, replaced several seals and cleaning the hot water heater burner. The previous owner had problems because I found several poor repair attempts. The microwave was tipped at an angle (stuff would slide to the door during use), it was off 1" from front to back and 1/4" left to right. The factory mounted the wall bracket at an angle to prevent a gap at the top (fixed this yesterday). 1 storage compartment was never sealed (fixed yesterday). Step light control was covered with duct tape (I assume because the light was flickering and the previous owner thought it was from water), turned out the screw for the ground was still loose (fixed yesterday). We love the floor plan, my wife was upset with all the issues after buying used, but after explaining even with a new one there would likely be more issues than what we had, she was ok. The only thing I am not sure about is the washer, it will sometimes click (door lock?) several times within the first minute of starting the generator. Because the service manager was helpful we were able to repair several of the items ourselves and it allowed me to get into the workings of the coach, hopefully, this will be the last of our problems.

Furnace Sail Swith
 

Reposting again as past did not provide feedback on the furnace issue.


See below update today.
Furnace not always lighting when boondocking off power or without starting generator.


Lately unless I have a full charge my furnace will not always light when on batteries. I have a Atwood in a 2017 Thor Challenger 37YT. Not sure exact model but likely AFMD35 or AFMD30 as its a 38' RV.



It fires right up when gen/shore power and just now after camping for four days where I had issues where I shut down fridge (residential) and the furnace after going to bed with full batteries (new/4 GC's/Solar). I tried to start furnace for the morning warm up and would not light. I just tried it now after drive home and no shore or generator and 3 out of 4 lights on batteries and it did light.



So thinking Sail Switch which my manual calls for a 31093 Large Paddle Kit or 31094 Small Paddle kit. Need to get model number for sure but wondering if this sounds like the culprit. Would it be the potential cause in the scenario above?



I think it has to do with the furnace either not having enough electric to get the ignitor to trigger or it's not recognizing it has the power available.


Any trouble shooting thoughts?