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DGShaffer 03-23-2014 09:16 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I'm done! The entire system has been de-winterized and sanitized and with up upcoming over night low's the lines have all been blown back out. At least now all I have to do is add water and go.

I think someone here asked what I did to make my portable Progressive Industries EMS a bit more secure and user friendly so I'm posting a picture of my shortened pigtail direct to the EMS. From there I use a 30 foot 50 amp extension that is so much easier to feed up through the access door. This leaves the EMS secure in the electrics bay and makes coiling up the power cord much easier.

tedgard01 03-23-2014 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1979674)
I'm done! The entire system has been de-winterized and sanitized and with up upcoming over night low's the lines have all been blown back out. At least now all I have to do is add water and go. I think someone here asked what I did to make my portable Progressive Industries EMS a bit more secure and user friendly so I'm posting a picture of my shortened pigtail direct to the EMS. From there I use a 30 foot 50 amp extension that is so much easier to feed up through the access door. This leaves the EMS secure in the electrics bay and makes coiling up the power cord much easier.

Thanks!

So I think I see a small pigtail hooked up between the EMS and the PI, then you hook up the power cord to the PI.

DGShaffer 03-23-2014 05:26 PM

I'm in my driveway running it off of a 100 foot 15amp extension. The short cord is a 50 to 30 amp pigtail

tedgard01 03-23-2014 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1978771)
.... Regarding the automatic leveling, I used the automatic feature once, maybe twice. It's good on an already level lot but rarely do I get one of those. I manually deploy the jacks on the low end or side, this allows the suspension on the unsupported end to collapse slightly. Once the unit is level I deploy the jacks on the opposite end or side just enough to ensure a good footing. Doing this keeps the MH closer to the ground where Automatic mode may require the use of a step ladder. I do agree that if it's installed, it should be operational.

Ok, tried to level it a few times while we were in the process of moving in from the Dolphin to the Challenger. It is different than what I am used to with the Dolphin. I was on the asphalt parking and drive way at CW, with the Dolphin beside. I wanted to be able to extend the slides to access all the cupboards in the kitchen, etc.

The asphalt had a slop to the passenger side and the front was a bit lower than the rear. I used the Auto Leveling and it failed. That ended up having both front tires off the ground. Consequently I changed and used the manual method.

As you said, I first tried to raise the passenger side, then the front, then simply drop the back jacks to stabilize. I am not sure that I did it correctly, but it was close. At least I thought it was close enough to let out the slides, and that seemed to work fine.

Because it was tilted a bit to the right (passenger) side, before pushing the right side button, I pulled out some jack pads and stuck a few under the right side jacks pads. Then I first raised the passenger (right) side, then dropped the front jacks. I noticed that when the front jacks dropped, it also raised the drivers side a bit too much. I then decided to push the left (drivers side) button, just a quick one to see what would happen. It apparently is smart enough to have recognized that the right needed to be lowered a bit, because it lowered it a little versus raising it more. Therefore I gave it a few more quick pushes, it lowered it several more times until it was almost level from left to right. Does that seem like a normal adjustment to you when doing it manually?

When stabilized the back by dropping the back jacks, it appeared to adjust front to back almost on target as well.

okiefrank 03-24-2014 12:40 AM

Leveling.
 
You said the leveling system failed,, did you have it repaired before leaving the dealer?

tedgard01 03-24-2014 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okiefrank (Post 1980805)
You said the leveling system failed,, did you have it repaired before leaving the dealer?

When I said it failed, I meant that only as a status.

If it is able to auto-level, it displays a "successful" status, if not able to auto-level, it displays a "failed" status.

It is not broke, just could not auto-level due to the surface was not level enough to begin with.

Webman9113 03-24-2014 07:09 AM

I don't remember seeing this anywhere in this thread, so my apologies if this is a repeat. I was wondering about the auto generator start feature and when it shuts off (the switching on part is easy enough). I was just concerned about whether the thing would come on when the house batteries get low and would then just stay on until the fuel level in the tank got below a quarter, when I believe the fuel flow to the generator stops.

I emailed Thor and they indicated that the generator will indeed shut itself off in this mode once the batteries have been "satisfied."

Anyway, just FYI for anyone who might have been wondering about that... :)

Bweiler 03-26-2014 07:16 PM

The auto gen start shuts off at a user adjustable time. The panel to adjust settings is located close by to the inverter in the storage bay. It has various adjustment dials - one being run time. Others are batt voltage based starting (very important to check), temp based starting, and some timing lockouts based on time of day. Gen runtime is adjustable from a minimum of one hour and up. My understanding is that run time is timed - not based off batt voltage. I will have to reread manual.

Webman9113 03-27-2014 02:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bweiler (Post 1984665)
The auto gen start shuts off at a user adjustable time. The panel to adjust settings is located close by to the inverter in the storage bay. It has various adjustment dials - one being run time. Others are batt voltage based starting (very important to check), temp based starting, and some timing lockouts based on time of day. Gen runtime is adjustable from a minimum of one hour and up. My understanding is that run time is timed - not based off batt voltage. I will have to reread manual.

Thanks for that! I'll have to poke around next time I'm at the storage lot and find the panel. I don't recall seeing anything like that in any of the bays, although I do recall seeing the inverter. Any chance you could post a pic? And is the manual included among the ones that come with the coach? I looked for that and could only find the one for the inverter...

bdickson 03-27-2014 03:16 PM

Well, looks like I'll be making the pilgrimage to Elkhart. The windshield on my 37GT popped its seal at both top corners a few weeks ago. I finally got to where a specialist glass company could look at it, They said the windshield needs to be removed and reset with a new seal. All of the dealers in this area contract out their glass work to the company who inspected it, so no way of getting it done locally. I was slightly alarmed by the reaction of the Thor Tech Support guy when I called him. He had a "business as usual" attitude, "Oh, another Challenger windshield popped, we'll take care of it". I just hope the front cap doesn't need to come off. Right now I have an appointment at Elkhart for Monday June 30th.

tedgard01 03-27-2014 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webman9113 (Post 1985040)
Thanks for that! I'll have to poke around next time I'm at the storage lot and find the panel. I don't recall seeing anything like that in any of the bays, although I do recall seeing the inverter. Any chance you could post a pic? And is the manual included among the ones that come with the coach? I looked for that and could only find the one for the inverter...

Did you find it? It is on the roof of the bay in my 2014.5 37GT. There was no manual, but CW printed the 34 page manual from the internet and gave it to me.

tedgard01 03-27-2014 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1985823)
Well, looks like I'll be making the pilgrimage to Elkhart. The windshield on my 37GT popped its seal at both top corners a few weeks ago. I finally got to where a specialist glass company could look at it, They said the windshield needs to be removed and reset with a new seal. All of the dealers in this area contract out their glass work to the company who inspected it, so no way of getting it done locally. I was slightly alarmed by the reaction of the Thor Tech Support guy when I called him. He had a "business as usual" attitude, "Oh, another Challenger windshield popped, we'll take care of it". I just hope the front cap doesn't need to come off. Right now I have an appointment at Elkhart for Monday June 30th.

Oh no.... What do I look for? I just got my 2014.5. Does anyone know if they made any manufacturing production line changes that may have corrected this in the latest models?

DGShaffer 03-27-2014 06:25 PM

Sorry to hear this Bruce. How did it happen?

bdickson 03-27-2014 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 1986076)
Oh no.... What do I look for? I just got my 2014.5. Does anyone know if they made any manufacturing production line changes that may have corrected this in the latest models?

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1986084)
Sorry to hear this Bruce. How did it happen?

This happened last month. We had been parked in an RV site for 4 months. At first we thought it was caused by an ice storm causing rain water to freeze and push the windshield out. The auto glass specialist who looked at it today said he didn't believe that was possible. At the same time, the side seal where the front cap attaches to the side panel split away for about 12 inches on each side, level with the V10 badges. This was repaired by a dealer who removed the trim strip and re screwed and caulked the seam. The glass guy is coming up with theories that revolve around some kind of severe torquing of the front end. I cannot recall anything like that happening. He also said it's possible the windshield opening in the cap was incorrectly cut at the factory. I assume the fiberglass is molded in one solid piece and then the openings are cut out with a jigsaw.

The windshield problem is pretty easy to spot. Stand beside the coach and look straight up and see if there is a gap between the black windshield seal and the fiberglass. In my case there was a gap big enough to put my fingers through. The glass guy sealed it up with black silicone caulk and tomorrow I'll finish it off with black duct tape.


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