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-   -   Thor Challenger Owners Unite! (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor-challenger-owners-unite-150811.html)

kndogpa 06-22-2014 08:49 AM

C/W problems in Las Vegas
 
For those that are tired and fed up with having to deal with C/W, Johnny Walker RV is now a certified Thor dealer and warranty repair shop. I have dealt with Johnny Walker through 3 other rigs over 12 years and have always been happy with them. When we decided to buy our 2014 Challenger 37KT, the only downside was having to use C/W as a repair shop. Now that that is fixed we are very happy with our Thor, love the floorplan and I have even gotten used to the gas engine. (last MH was a DP) We gave up about ,5 MPG duel economy and gained $.25 to $.75 cheaper fuel along with a lot cheaper maintenance, the difference in power is not a problem as we drive a little and park for a week to 2 weeks. Looking forward to going full time in 2 yrs, have one more child to got into college.

kndogpa 06-22-2014 09:30 AM

Challenger man cave
 
I don't know about man cave, but I do have one heck of a nice Dog House when I need it. I have 50A service water and sewer on my property and the MH is with us all the time plugged in and ready to use, it also doubles as a great 2nd kitchen for big get togethers. We have owned our Thor since 9/2014, bought it at MHSRV in Tx and could not have been happier with the service we received, Rodney sold me the MH pretty much over the phone and we flew in to pick it up, were met at the DFW airport by them, give a new chev suv to drive for the 3 days we were there and the couple of items we found on PDI, they took care of quickly and correctly. I have enjoyed this thread a lot and have learned a great deal of things about the MH, some of which I have already done and others that are on my honey do list.

Musikboy 06-22-2014 09:43 AM

We keep our Thor Tuscany on our property and love the convenience of having it there. Like you described, it's plugged in to shore power all the time, our fridge is stocked and we are ready to go with 15 minutes notice.

We are still in our 1st year and little things go wrong here and there, nothing has stopped us and hopefully we remain mostly trouble free for a long time but ready should something go wrong. Being mostly new to this lifestyle we did buy a warrantee and a coach-net membership. So hopefully we can handle what comes our way.

We still have so much to learn but everyone has been so friendly and helpful, we are delighted to be part of this whole community.

So far, thor has been responsive to phone calls when we have problems. We have only CW available to us here in metrowest Boston area for Thor service and we have an august appointment scheduled to handle a bunch of little issues and one larger issue. I hope it goes well.

kndogpa 06-22-2014 10:26 AM

2014 37 KT ice make
 
I have a Whilrpool residential fridge that does not have the ice make installed. There is hook ups in the freezer for an ice maker. My question has anyone found the ice maker that belongs/fits this fridge and where did you get it?

sbleiweiss 06-23-2014 07:15 AM

So glad this forum came alive again. I missed the moring MH talk. We just returned from California (about 5000 miles round trip) and ate way too well in San Francisco. I have two questions. Our gray water tank sensors are showing full even after dumping. they must be gunked up. Anyone have a good fix? Second, at one campground we got moths in the MH overnight. About a dozen of them. Anyone else have this problem or find how they get in?

DGShaffer 06-23-2014 07:29 AM

It is good to see some activity. We used to keep our Challenger on our property but now have it at an off site lot. We're still using it every other weekend so we bring it to the house on Thursday night and leave Friday. We just got back from a weekend near the shore where we were able to take the bike out for breakfast and a nice morning ride.

Regarding the maintenance of the tanks, I found this posted here but can't find the post. Luckily I have it save on my FB page:

It's called the Geo Method

By Charles Bruni
cbruni@mindspring.com
Renton, Washington
U.S.A.

Everyone who owns an RV should be concerned with maintaining its wastewater tanks. Problems with wastewater tanks can and should be avoided. Wastewater tank repair is expensive. Due to health concerns, many service facilities will not work on wastewater tanks and lines until the tanks have been completely emptied and sanitized. This may be quite difficult when the tank(s) is in need of repair. So, common sense dictates that the tanks should be kept relatively clean at all times. Additionally, improper use of the wastewater tanks can lead to a build up of solid wastes, which in itself may cause the system to fail.

I've discovered very simple, effective, and inexpensive methods of maintaining my wastewater tanks in a relatively clean condition at all times. I developed these methods myself through my understanding of chemistry, physics, and biology with a smidgen of common sense thrown in for good measure. I also read my RV owner's manual. Although we are not full time RVers we use our fifth wheel camper at least one weekend a month. We never use public bathing and toilet facilities. In other words, our wastewater tanks are fairly heavily used. Since I've met a number of RVers who don't seem to know how to maintain their wastewater tanks I thought many RVers would find my tips useful. If you have not been maintaining your tanks I believe you will be pleasantly surprised the first time you employ these tips. I do these things and they work.

RVs are equipped with waste water HOLDING tanks; NOT septic tanks. Those holding tanks are nothing more than chamber pots. Chamber pots should be cleaned and sanitized after their contents are disposed of. The Geo Method is based on this fact.


1. DUMP A FULL TANK

When you are camping and your RV is connected to a sewer/septic intake, leave the drain valves closed until the tank is full and ready to dump. Dumping a full tank provides a sufficient quantity of water to flush solids from the tank. Leaving the drain valves open allows the water to drain off without flushing out solid waste. That solid waste will collect in the tank(s) and cause problems over time. If your tanks are not full when you are ready to dump them, fill them with fresh water first, and then dump them.


2. DUMP TANKS IN ORDER FROM DIRTIEST TO CLEANEST

In other words, dump the black (commode) water tank first, then dump the galley tank, then dump the bathroom tank. This way you will be flushing out the dirtiest water with progressively cleaner water.


3. USE WATER SOFTENER, DETERGENT, and CHLORINE BLEACH

This stuff is amazing and it works. Buy a couple of boxes of powdered water softener at the grocery store. You'll find it located with or near the laundry detergent products. I prefer Calgon Water Softener because it dissolves quickly in water. Cheaper water softeners work just as well but dissolve more slowly. Dissolve two (2) cups of the water softener in a gallon of hot water. Then, pour the solution down the drain into the empty tank. Use two cups of softener for each wastewater tank in your RV. The tank's drain valve should be closed otherwise the softened water will just drain out. Then use the tank(s) normally until it is full and drain it normally. Add a cup of laundry detergent to the black (commode) water tank at the same time you add water softener. This will help clean the tank. The gray water tanks should already contain soap through normal use.

The water softener makes the solid waste let go from the sides of the tanks. If you've ever taken a shower in softened water you know that after rinsing the soap from your body your skin will feel slick. That's because all the soap rinses away with soft water. Softened water also prevents soap scum from sticking in the tub. Get the connection? With softened water gunk washes away instead of sticking. The same thing applies to your RV's wastewater tanks.

I use a clear plastic elbow connector to attach my sewer drain line to the wastewater outlet on my RV. It allows me to see how well things are progressing during a wastewater dump. Before I began using water softener regularly the black water tank's water was brown, the galley tank's water was brownish, and the bathroom tank's water was white. The first time I added water softener to the tanks the water coming from the black water tank was actually black (not brown) and the kitchen tank's water was also black (not brownish). The bathroom tank's water remained white. That told me that the water softener had actually done what I had intended for it to do and made solid waste, which had been stuck to the interior of the tanks, let go and drain away. I added water softener (and laundry detergent to the black tank) to all the wastewater tanks for the next few dumps to be certain all the solid waste possible had been cleaned away. The wastewater only appeared black on the initial treatment. I now add water softener and detergent to each tank once after every few dumps to maintain the system.

Too little water softener may not be of sufficient concentration to work effectively. Too much water softener will NOT hurt the tanks. So, if the amount you used didn't quite do the job, then use more the next time. Don't forget the laundry detergent.

Occasionally, I pour a half gallon of liquid bleach into each tank to deodorize, sanitize and disinfect them. I add the bleach when the tank is about half full, and then continue to use the tank normally until it is full and ready to dump. I no longer use the blue toilet chemical because it isn't necessary. I have no odors coming from my black water tank. The chlorine bleach kills the bacteria, which is primarily responsible for waste water tank odor. Generic brand liquid bleach is cheap and very effective.


4. USE A WATER FILTER ON YOUR FRESH WATER INTAKE LINE

Most fresh water contains sediment. Sediment will accumulate in your wastewater tanks and your fresh water lines. It also tends to discolor your sinks, tub/shower, and commode. I use the disposable type and have found that they eventually fill up and begin restricting the fresh water flow resulting in low pressure. That's how I know it's time to get a new filter. It works, it's cheap, it avoids problems, do it. When I fill my fresh water tank I attach the filter to the end of the hose and fill the tank with filtered water.


SOME OTHER THOUGHTS

WATER, WATER, WATER - and more water! The Geo Method assumes you are hooked up to a plentiful clean water supply, and that you have access to a sewer. The water softener will make the gunk let go. That's only half the battle. After the gunk lets go it must then be flushed through the relatively small drain opening in the bottom of the tank. That takes water. Lots of water.

Will The Geo Method work even if most of the time I'm NOT hooked up to water and sewer? YES! Just use common sense. If you dry camp ninety percent of the time just keep water softener and detergent in your tanks (especially the black tank) while you're dry camping. This will keep gunk from sticking to the tanks. When you are hooked up to sewer and water take the opportunity to fill the tanks with fresh water and flush the tanks. Keep flushing them until the water runs clear. I know it works because I've done it.

Never put regular toilet tissue in your RV's black tank. Only use toilet tissue which is approved for RV and/or septic tank use. Regular toilet tissue may eventually dissolve, but not before causing a clog in your black tank.

I believe occasionally traveling with partially filled wastewater tanks that contain softened water promotes cleaning by agitating the water. The same goes for chlorine bleach.

I believe this process works faster and more efficiently during warm weather. However, I know it works well even during cool/cold weather.

I believe the process works best the longer the water softener remains in the tanks. So, I don't add water softener during periods of heavy wastewater generation. I wait until I know we won't be generating wastewater quickly so that the softened water remains in the tanks for several days before dumping.

If you have an older RV you may have to use water softener and detergent several times initially to completely clean the tanks of residue.


I add a small amount of chlorine bleach to the fresh water tank twice a year to disinfect and sanitize the fresh water tank and fresh water lines. A weak chlorine bleach solution will not hurt you. However, it certainly makes the water taste bad. When we have chlorine in the fresh water system we use bottled water for drinking and cooking until the chlorine is gone. YES, we drink the filtered water that we have in the fresh water tank. NO, it has never tasted funny or caused any problems.

No, I do NOT do the ice cube thing. The Geo Method works just fine without ice cubes.

My tanks are plastic and my pipes are PVC.

Don't be afraid to use your tanks. Just use common sense about their care and maintenance.

These tips are inexpensive to do. Some of them don't cost anything. You have nothing to lose in trying them and I encourage you to do so. I actually feel a certain amount of pride in the condition and cleanliness of both my waste and fresh water systems. Naturally, these tips make dumping a much more pleasant and sanitary procedure.

If you have odors in any of your water systems these procedures should eliminate them. Odors indicate a sanitary problem and degrade the enjoyment you derive from your RV.

When my RV is parked and not in use I place stoppers in the sink and tub drains. This forces the wastewater tanks to vent through the vent pipes to the outside instead of through the drains into the RV. Water evaporates. Once the drain traps dry out during periods of non-use, nothing is there to prevent gasses (odor) from venting into the camper. Use stoppers when your RV is stored.

copyright(c) 2004 Charles Bruni

Webman9113 06-23-2014 07:46 AM

I wanted to give folks a little heads up about a couple of things that we've come across in our 2014.5 37KT while on our summer road trip to New England (which so far has been a blast).

The first one is to be aware of how the refrigerator is mounted in case it ever has to be removed for service/repair. The water line behind ours was leaking and it had to be removed, of course. The warranty repair, which was performed by LazyDays in Tampa, fixed the leak, but the whole bloody fridge nearly fell out of the cabinet when we made a slow but tight left turn up a ramp into a Flying J some miles down the road. Had my older stepson not been on the couch and had the presence of mind to leap up and shove it back in, the fridge would have tumbled right down the steps into the entry door.

Upon inspection, we found that the fridge is secured by two small brackets at the bottom that are screwed into the cabinet. There are two larger brackets at the top, also screwed to the cabinet, and secured to the refrigerator only with padded double sided tape - there are NO screws from the brackets into the fridge. When LazyDays fixed the water leak, they didn't replace the tape (which had, not surprisingly, lost its stickiness) nor leveled the fridge properly and levered it up to make full contact with the tape/brackets (there was about a 1/16" gap). Our first hint of something being amiss was the doors not staying shut the first couple days of the trip, which had never before been a problem. I already expressed my ire to LazyDays (to be honest, we didn't have that great a service experience with them, especially for the small fortune I dropped there for some other work I had done) and will sort that out when we return home.

We held the fridge in with duct tape until we reached our first multi-night stop, in Maryland, and were able to make arrangements to get into a repair shop. That itself was no easy task - out of the four places we called, only Custom Coach in Baltimore agreed to squeeze us in, so big kudos to them. One of their techs removed the existing top brackets, drilled holes that would fit over the spare door hinge holes in the top of the fridge (they didn't want to drill holes in the fridge itself for fear of hitting something, I'm don't remember what), then remounted the brackets with bolts that screwed right into the hinge holes. Unfortunately, with us being on a tight schedule - we were literally on the road from Maryland north to NYC - they weren't able to take the time to get everything just right, so the fridge is still not level. However, it IS secure in the cabinet and getting it leveled and the brackets adjusted should be pretty easy, and we'll wait on that until we get home.

Issue number two is something that everyone having a Challenger with the slides that have two sets of tracks (or whatever they're called) on the forward sides should do: periodically inspect the bolts. We were trying to put out the driver side forward slide when it seemed to catch on something on the forward end, while the back kept on going out. After pulling it in and carefully repeating the process a couple times, I finally saw that the outermost bolt on the top forward slide had come loose and was binding on the edge of the slide opening in the rig. Binding is probably too mild a term: when I finally worked the thing loose (even with the slide all the way in I could barely get to it), I found the bolt was actually bent from the force of the slide.

With the slides safely out, I looked at all the bolts on both sides: I would say about half a dozen, almost all on the top slide brackets, were coming out, and at least two, when I screwed them back in, just twirled away in their holes, stripped. The track where the bolt had gotten stuck was actually separating from the slide.

I plan to just keep an eye on them until we get home and add that to our list of a few other minor warranty items (stuff like a couple cabinet door hinges that are loose) that need fixing.

Other than that and a few minor design quibbles, we love the Challenger 37KT, especially after adding a trac bar and Safe-T-Plus. :cool:

bronk 06-24-2014 01:04 PM

The post concerning the grey water level indicator registering full when in fact the tank is empty is exactly what ours started doing last month. I was advised to use DRAINO with a full tank of grey water. I will try this next week on our way back from downeast Maine. Since we will be stopping in Bangor for a few days before heading back to KY, I will be able to dump the grey water and see if there is a difference in the level indicator. The roads here are rough enough so as to provide a good "sloshing" action to hopefully clean the sensors in the tank. I will keep you posted as to result.

Bronk

sbleiweiss 06-24-2014 04:54 PM

Thanks Don. Very helpful!

HavaneseMom 06-26-2014 09:49 AM

Geo Method
 
DGShaffer, Thanks for the info on the Geo Method. I plan to start using it as my tanks aren't gunked up yet and I want to keep them that way.


BTW, does anyone know where the water pump is on the 2012 DT model? It's not near the fresh water tank like the manual says and I haven't been able to locate it. I want to check the filter on it as I'm not getting water when I turn the pump on.

rvbunz 06-26-2014 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HavaneseMom (Post 2111354)
DGShaffer, Thanks for the info on the Geo Method. I plan to start using it as my tanks aren't gunked up yet and I want to keep them that way.

BTW, does anyone know where the water pump is on the 2012 DT model? It's not near the fresh water tank like the manual says and I haven't been able to locate it. I want to check the filter on it as I'm not getting water when I turn the pump on.

If it is in the same place as the 2013 it's in the bathroom under the closet near shower

Mgoldfinger 06-26-2014 02:15 PM

Water pump not working 2012 Challenger DT
 
I had that same experience and it turned out to be a valve
was not turned back in the correct position (from winterization).
It's located in or next to the bay where the hydrolics are..

DGShaffer 06-27-2014 09:48 AM

On my 2013 37DT the water pump is behind a louvered panel between the door to the toilet and the shower as mentioned above.

Your problem could be with the valve in the bay that has the tube for siphoning the antifreeze. This is the bay on the passenger side just behind the rear wheels. There are two valves, one for the siphon hose and one to bypass the water system to allow you to draw in the antifreeze. It's a 1/4 turn valve so just try turning opposite it's current position.

rvbunz 06-27-2014 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 2112668)
On my 2013 37DT the water pump is behind a louvered panel between the door to the toilet and the shower as mentioned above.

Your problem could be with the valve in the bay that has the tube for siphoning the antifreeze. This is the bay on the passenger side just behind the rear wheels. There are two valves, one for the siphon hose and one to bypass the water system to allow you to draw in the antifreeze. It's a 1/4 turn valve so just try turning opposite it's current position.

Hey DG
What kind of tire pressure are you running on your DT. I'm running 90 but another one of our DT owners had his Coach weighed and adjusted his pressure to 80 in the front and 85 in the rear. He says his ride is much smoother


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