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-   -   Thor Challenger Owners Unite! (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor-challenger-owners-unite-150811.html)

camaromance 03-05-2013 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john109 (Post 1485678)
Don maybe you should contact Thor as well as other manufactures and start selling them. Its got to be cheaper then the way they are doing it right now. Just don't forget us little people when you start collecting those checks.

I don't know. Considering the materials used and the talent to use what appears to be a machine shop vs a few pieces of PVC and a plastic crapper flange, I think you came out way ahead on this deal, John.

It is apparent that Don has a lot of experience using CAD software for design and the follow through to make his ideas into reality. I buy engineering drawings, and pay for the design work and its not cheap. I'm sure you get that but wanted to point out to those who don't, Don has mad skills and I have a ton of respect for guys that know how to do it right.

camaromance 03-05-2013 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1485682)
If they went back to a simple plastic threaded ring and cap it would be cheaper! That's what was on my Outlaw and it was perfect. Threading the plug into the ring was a bitch and many times it cross threaded but who cared. The Flapper is pretty simple but I doubt cheaper!

I do have one more completed assembly left and no one else has asked for it so I'm thinking I have a limited audience.

Thanks you two! :rofl:

You are right about that damn thread ring. I had the same thing on my class C. I've gotten used to the pipe and found a cap that would fit on the end of my sewer hose so I don't mind it so much anymore. However, if I had known of you when I first got my KT, your second crapper-flapper would have a new home.

DGShaffer 03-05-2013 07:00 PM

:blush: You are too kind!

john109 03-06-2013 03:25 AM

Guys I know I came out way head. I am all for getting rid of the sewer pipe. It cleans up the look plus I also found a hose that would fit into the pipe. But I found when I cut the black pipe out was that the hose was leaking a little bit (probably from the end cap) and there was a bit of sewer smell and residue. Guys I enjoy going back and forth with all you guys and learning new ideas, all I was saying is submit to manufactures who knows maybe they would go for it.

DGShaffer 03-06-2013 04:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john109 (Post 1486153)
sewer smell and residue.

Ewwwwwwww :eek:

DGShaffer 03-06-2013 06:36 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Hey John,

Do you have the width and depth of the bay slide you made handy? I'm working on a design for a variable width two piece expandable aluminum slide tray with full extension slides and don't have that available at the moment.

I was thinking about mounting them at the height of the cross over so that long items like rugs, ladders and big folding chairs can be placed on them and pulled out. Right now, anything you put on the top shelf in the bays falls into the lower part as you go around turns.

john109 03-06-2013 07:58 AM

Don iam at work but I can run home at lunch and get some measurements.

john109 03-06-2013 08:29 AM

don i got your measurements and sent you a pm

DGShaffer 03-06-2013 08:36 AM

It's not that important. I need to measure a bunch of points anyway. What I'm making will be able to be installed in any of the compartments other than the really small one to the rear of the passengers side.

Thanks for the offer though

DGShaffer 03-06-2013 08:37 AM

You eat lunch early

john109 03-06-2013 02:10 PM

thats funny :laugh: I kind of work at my own pace as long as everything gets done everyday I can take lunch when I need to. And I live close to work.

john109 03-06-2013 04:03 PM

Guys I am jumping into a new mod and thought you may find it interesting.
It doesn't cost anything and easy to do. I have been following a very long thread over on the F53 Ford Chassis section of this site. It is called "A Cheap Handling Fix" many people have gone with it and are very happy with the results. Bottom line is you change the settings on your sway bars by moving the bolts from one hole to another on all four corners of the RV. The pictures are very clear and as far as I can tell from the thread their have been no bad results yet. Some of the people have put many miles on the units with no issues. I spoke to the guy I know at the frame shop out in Minnesota and his feeling is this would be fine for the RV. So I guess I am in. Read the thread but have a few beers near by its going to take a while.
John

DGShaffer 03-06-2013 04:42 PM

Personally I prefer to allow my motor home to sway. I think it teaches me to be a better, smoother driver.

The other issue I have with installing or modifying the anti sway system on a top heavy vehicle is that it reduces the pressure and therefore traction on the inside wheels throughout a turn.

Anti sway bars attempt to limit sway by trying to lift the heavy suspension on the inside of the turn off the ground. This reduces the load on the inside wheel and drastically increases the load on the side walls of the outside wheels.

It's just an opinion but I prefer good shocks and the anti sway protection engineered into the chassis by the manufacturer.

Just my 2cents... Carry on :popcorn:

john109 03-06-2013 04:49 PM

Don I only have 1800 miles on mine and and honestly I didn't think it was too bad. Maybe a couple of times I felt a strong cross wind or a big truck driving by. But after reading the thread and all the people who say how much better it is I think I will give it a try if nothing else I can swap it back and didn't cost me anything but time.


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