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Jbmsr 05-12-2013 12:26 PM

Winnebago Tour Tips
 
2 Attachment(s)
We found metal construction debris stuck in 5 of the drivers slide rollers. Easy to remove and much better for your tile.

Jesse

smack2020 05-13-2013 06:59 AM

When we first got our 42QD, we kept getting rub marks on the tile where the rollers sat. I cleaned the rollers real well and now we don't get the marks on the tile. We also make sure floor is clean prior to bringing in slides.

Jbmsr 05-29-2013 07:33 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by smack2020 (Post 1565984)
When we first got our 42QD, we kept getting rub marks on the tile where the rollers sat. I cleaned the rollers real well and now we don't get the marks on the tile. We also make sure floor is clean prior to bringing in slides.

Thanks smack2020

Dw wanted me to find a way to block the light coming in the bedroom and she wanted a full length mirror. She loves the upgrade. Not sure how I feel about seeing my whole self when I jump out of bed in the morning!



Attachment 39794



Attachment 39795



Attachment 39796

smack2020 05-29-2013 08:08 PM

Wow, very nice, jbmsr. My wife has been wanting a mirror too. How did you install it? It looks awesome. Wife likes your new mirror too.

Jbmsr 05-29-2013 08:29 PM

Thanks smack2020!
I had Atlas glass and mirror cut it to size. (40"x 73") It was 1/8th inch thick to keep the weight down. I had them install an anti shatter material on the back for safety (it was white so it looks good from the living room). I got the black trim at Pep boy's (it was door trim). I used the two sided tape recommended by the glass company.

Thanks,


Jesse




Quote:

Originally Posted by smack2020 (Post 1585706)
Wow, very nice, jbmsr. My wife has been wanting a mirror too. How did you install it? It looks awesome. Wife likes your new mirror too.


Trekkers 06-28-2013 09:24 AM

The 2013 Ellipse 42GD that we have comes with a full length mirror already installed on the bathroom side of the door from the bath into the master bedroom. My wife thought it didn't have a mirror either until the first time that I used the toilet and closed that door and then I called to her ... "HONEY, come here for a minute, I need to show you something!" She was ecstatic.

Finhawk 06-28-2013 05:51 PM

My Meridian has bypass doors but that could be doable. Great idea

tigersharkjd 06-28-2013 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trekkers (Post 1621904)
The 2013 Ellipse 42GD that we have comes with a full length mirror already installed on the bathroom side of the door from the bath into the master bedroom. My wife thought it didn't have a mirror either until the first time that I used the toilet and closed that door and then I called to her ... "HONEY, come here for a minute, I need to show you something!" She was ecstatic.

I assume it was the mirror?

F117plt 06-28-2013 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tigersharkjd (Post 1622447)

I assume it was the mirror?

Too funny. Unfortunately, it probably was the mirror!

Trekkers 06-28-2013 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tigersharkjd (Post 1622447)

I assume it was the mirror?

Yep, a mirror

dethomson 06-29-2013 11:51 AM

I have a question about my 2013 42QD. The radio buttons on the steering wheel do not light up at night, however, the other steering wheel buttons do light up. Is this normal or do I have a defective light bulb?

Jerry J 06-29-2013 06:53 PM

The radio control is battery powered and not connected to the motorhome electrical system. At least mine is.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dethomson (Post 1623160)
I have a question about my 2013 42QD. The radio buttons on the steering wheel do not light up at night, however, the other steering wheel buttons do light up. Is this normal or do I have a defective light bulb?


smack2020 06-29-2013 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dethomson (Post 1623160)
I have a question about my 2013 42QD. The radio buttons on the steering wheel do not light up at night, however, the other steering wheel buttons do light up. Is this normal or do I have a defective light bulb?

I was told the radio buttons are a Winnie add on, and as said above, battery powered. Mine don't light up either.

dethomson 06-30-2013 09:27 PM

Thank you for your feedback. It makes sense that if the radio buttons control the radio via an RF signal then the buttons may not light up with the other steering wheel buttons. I'll check to see if the radio buttons are battery powered.

dethomson 06-30-2013 09:30 PM

Sorry, I intended to say that I will check to see where the battery is located and make sure I have a spare. Thanks again.

dethomson 06-30-2013 09:31 PM

Sorry, I intended to say that I will check to see where the battery is located and make sure I have a spare. Thanks again.

Jbmsr 08-20-2013 09:10 AM

42qd Bath trim working away from wall
 
1 Attachment(s)
This wood trim in my 42qd bath would keep working its way from the wall. I removed it and used a cutting wheel to cut the 6 nails off rather than pulling them out. Found out that when I placed it back to inspect the fit it was cut incorrectly. The left bevel cut that goes behind the door jam was holding the rest of the trim away from the wall. I could push it to the wall but it was binding out. I trimmed the left bevel edge so that the trim then would lay in place without force. After reinstalling it hasn't pulled away. I read somewhere on here of someone having this problem as well.

Jesse

F117plt 08-20-2013 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr (Post 1693660)
This wood trim in my 42qd bath would keep working its way from the wall. I removed it and used a cutting wheel to cut the 6 nails off rather than pulling them out. Found out that when I placed it back to inspect the fit it was cut incorrectly. The left bevel cut that goes behind the door jam was holding the rest of the trim away from the wall. I could push it to the wall but it was binding out. I trimmed the left bevel edge so that the trim then would lay in place without force. After reinstalling it hasn't pulled away. I read somewhere on here of someone having this problem as well.

Jesse

I have had to remove and trim many pieces of quarter round and crown molding in my 42QD. Just lazy work by the installer at the factory.

smack2020 08-20-2013 06:28 PM

I used silicone to keep my loose trim in place. Not pretty, but it works.

toddb 08-20-2013 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dethomson (Post 1625072)
Thank you for your feedback. It makes sense that if the radio buttons control the radio via an RF signal then the buttons may not light up with the other steering wheel buttons. I'll check to see if the radio buttons are battery powered.

Yep. Steering wheel radio buttons are battery powered and do not light up at night. You either have to memorize the buttons or hit your Map light.

fla tom 08-21-2013 06:12 AM

Has anyone insulated the front cap? it lets in a lot of heat. Also has anyone made a cover or blocked off the opening from basement to hall bath/kitchen slide,when we open the cabinet under the sink it feels like a heater while the basement feels very airconditioned

smack2020 08-21-2013 06:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fla tom (Post 1694893)
Has anyone insulated the front cap? it lets in a lot of heat. Also has anyone made a cover or blocked off the opening from basement to hall bath/kitchen slide,when we open the cabinet under the sink it feels like a heater while the basement feels very airconditioned

I feel a lot of heat coming from my front cap also. I don't see how a person could insulate it without taking the cap off.

The opening in the basement looks like a bad design to me. I had some grey boat cover material which I used to cover the hole. Works ok, I used industrial strength Velcro to attach to the edges of the opening. I can still feel cold air coming from inside the RV, but not as much.

Jbmsr 08-21-2013 07:13 AM

Hi fla tom
I keep all blinds closed in front and it helps in hot areas. We have found that we can't keep anything that will melt in the slide cabinets. In our last coach I cut insulation board to fit in the back wall of all cabinets and it helped very much. I will eventually do the same with this coach. I haven't found the need yet to block off the opening under the sink. If all of the cargo door seals are good and all access openings are closed you shouldn't have excessive air if any coming in at the hall bath/kitchen slide.

Jesse

Quote:

Originally Posted by fla tom (Post 1694893)
Has anyone insulated the front cap? it lets in a lot of heat. Also has anyone made a cover or blocked off the opening from basement to hall bath/kitchen slide,when we open the cabinet under the sink it feels like a heater while the basement feels very airconditioned


fla tom 08-21-2013 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smack2020 (Post 1694909)
I feel a lot of heat coming from my front cap also. I don't see how a person could insulate it without taking the cap off.

The opening in the basement looks like a bad design to me. I had some grey boat cover material which I used to cover the hole. Works ok, I used industrial strength Velcro to attach to the edges of the opening. I can still feel cold air coming from inside the RV, but not as much.

when I swapped out the king dome for the travler antenna I removed the trim and screws (inside) at the rear of the front cap area provided enough room to fit insulation (I should have done it at the time) to remove the whole ceiling would require removing the cabinets your idea with the velcroed boat cover is good I wonder if reflective insulation would work as good

kjburns 08-21-2013 09:22 PM

If your driver's side mirror falls apart like ours did, replacement isn't difficult. It never was damaged, it just dropped the upper glass, then the back cover. You'll need to buy a whole new mirror. You can't buy the parts.

Our local dealer quoted $1460 for the mirror. Lichtsinn had it for $1077.30, saving me almost $400.

There are four allen bolts to remove. The connections involve three sets of wires. The smallest one can be handled from the outside, but the other two need to be connected inside. To get to the connections, remove the four phillips screws from the footrest to the left of the brake pedal. With some poking around, you'll find them.

I just cut the wires from the old mirror rather than have my wife hold the mirror while I searched. That made finding the connections a little easier since I just needed to find the cut wires and see where they went.

bobpie 01-22-2014 06:55 PM

another quality job by the best in the business.

Jbmsr 01-22-2014 07:46 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Thought someone might like this.

Jesse

Jbmsr 01-22-2014 07:51 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Wanted to attach 4 pictures but it only would post 1.

jmarr1 01-23-2014 09:57 PM

Hi JBMSR
Where did you find the swivel mount for your TV. I would like to change mine and our friends with a 2014 Tour 42QD are interested as well. He contacted Winnebago and they were unable to provide any information about the swivel mount.

Jbmsr 01-25-2014 07:13 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Hi jmarr1
I found the RV-crim-art-42 RV /Motorhome Ultra Thin Articulating TV Bracket 16-42' at WallMount World for $200.01 after shipping. Installed correctly works absolutely amazing! I will share install tips if desired.

Jesse


www.wallmountworld.com

Finhawk 01-25-2014 10:45 AM

Fantastic, Jessie . That's gonna be my next project. It should help do away with the irritating glare

Finhawk 01-25-2014 10:47 AM

Sorry I misspelled your name
Bruce

jmarr1 01-25-2014 05:41 PM

Jesse
Thanks for the follow-up on the black tank sensor problem as well as the information about the swivel mount for the TV. Not sure if I'm ready to tackle the Muriatic Acid solution just yet. I'm currently parked until April and will try the dishwasher enzyme and driving / sloshing method when we move on and see if that resolves it. If there are any special tips for the swivel mount install please share. Thanks again, Joe

Finhawk 01-25-2014 05:47 PM

A question Jesse. How does the TV come out of there? All I see on mine is 2 screws at the top. Does it just slip into the bottom of the existing mount. It looks like a very easy installation
Thanks
Bruce

Jbmsr 01-25-2014 07:46 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Finhawk (Post 1899365)
A question Jesse. How does the TV come out of there? All I see on mine is 2 screws at the top. Does it just slip into the bottom of the existing mount. It looks like a very easy installation
Thanks
Bruce

My bracket had three screws at the top and the tv slid up and out. Knowing where to drill your first whole for the top of the mount is important. The rest is a breeze. I used rivets. The tv needs to be at the same hight as original to work best.

Jesse

Finhawk 01-25-2014 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr (Post 1899525)
My bracket had three screws at the top and the tv slid up and out. Knowing where to drill your first whole for the top of the mount is important. The rest is a breeze. I used rivets. The tv needs to be at the same hight as original to work best.

Jesse

Did you center the bracket both horizontally and vertically? Your box looks like it's the same as mine.

Jbmsr 01-25-2014 09:16 PM

I mounted the mount to the tv and realized that when the mount was in the closed positions the three mounting hole were off center by 2 and 15/16". I measured to get the center vertical line in the tv box. I then measured to the right of that Line the 2 and 15/16" and marked a final vertical line with a pencil. I measured the clearance from the top of the molding to the top of the tv before I removed the tv and got 1 and 11/16" so I knew I could add that distance to the distance between the top mounting hole and the top of the tv with the mount and tv connected and this distance would be my horizontal line in the tv box. I drilled at the cross of the two lines for my top rivet. After pop riveting the top the mount has a built in level so you can level the coach and set the level and then drill your other holes.
Heck I should have just listed my two measurements to give you my first drilling coordinates. I would sure think it would be the same.
Jesse

Finhawk 01-26-2014 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr (Post 1899614)
I mounted the mount to the tv and realized that when the mount was in the closed positions the three mounting hole were off center by 2 and 15/16". I measured to get the center vertical line in the tv box. I then measured to the right of that Line the 2 and 15/16" and marked a final vertical line with a pencil. I measured the clearance from the top of the molding to the top of the tv before I removed the tv and got 1 and 11/16" so I knew I could add that distance to the distance between the top mounting hole and the top of the tv with the mount and tv connected and this distance would be my horizontal line in the tv box. I drilled at the cross of the two lines for my top rivet. After pop riveting the top the mount has a built in level so you can level the coach and set the level and then drill your other holes. Heck I should have just listed my two measurements to give you my first drilling coordinates. I would sure think it would be the same. Jesse

Thanks, that helps a lot. I just ordered one. We're going to the WIT Rally in Cashmere, Wa in May so there should be some interest shown there. And maybe I'll have the only one. LOL

Jbmsr 01-26-2014 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Finhawk (Post 1900451)

Thanks, that helps a lot. I just ordered one. We're going to the WIT Rally in Cashmere, Wa in May so there should be some interest shown there. And maybe I'll have the only one. LOL

LOL, unless I show up! Just kidding I can't come. I am happy for you. You will love it. You will need:

2-4' HDMI cables (Staples for quality)
2-HDMI couplings (Home Depot)
1- 3' coaxial cable (Home Depot)
1- coaxial barrel coupling (Home Depot)
1-3' Audio extension (Home Depot)
1-bag of small black zip ties (also use them to tie the HDMI couplings together) (Home Depot)
1-bag of stick on wire connectors (only used 1 of them) (Home Depot)
1-auto wire cover (pep boys sells it in a 47" section)

Note:

Excess wire will slide onto wall.

This mount has a clip at full retraction for added security. I don't use that for the following reason:
Mounted correctly when the tv is stowed the bottom of the tv rests on the factory rubber seal and looks original. The bracket is stiff enough to hold the tv into place. You can push the tv in about an inch more and it will lock into place but it puts too much stress on the tv and to me it didn't look original.

Jesse

Jbmsr 01-28-2014 12:25 PM

1 Attachment(s)
When you mount yours let me know if you get the same location.

Thanks

Jesse

Finhawk 01-28-2014 02:48 PM

I'll be more than happy to. It should be here next week, I hope

Finhawk 01-28-2014 02:51 PM

I assume you mean 5 1/4" down to the top hole?

Jbmsr 01-28-2014 03:45 PM

Yes

Jbmsr 02-04-2014 06:55 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Works well. One minute = 5 gallons.

Flows after hose reel through two cut offs, a one way valve, and a spring loaded flush lever to activate. Also has a cut off Y to supply a separate hose and sprayer

Jbmsr 02-06-2014 09:28 PM

3 Attachment(s)
If it is zone temperature it should adjust by zones. I took the ac vent out and stuck a piece of foam rubber in the duct to separate the two zones as they should be. I love it. DW can be 77 in the bedroom and I can be 68 in the living room.

Finhawk 02-06-2014 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr (Post 1916811)
If it is zone temperature it should adjust by zones. I took the ac vent out and stuck a piece of foam rubber in the duct to separate the two zones as they should be. I love it. DW can be 77 in the bedroom and I can be 68 in the living room.

You sure come up with some good ones! In what vent did you put that foam?

Jbmsr 02-07-2014 06:16 AM

Thanks Finhawk

Placed the one between zone 1 and 2 and one between zone 2 and 3. I had to move them a few times so that they would work correctly. I will be at the coach soon and follow up with the foam measurements and locations.

Jesse

Jbmsr 02-07-2014 07:48 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Jesse

Finhawk 02-07-2014 12:39 PM

Have you had a chance to run it like that yet
Bruce

Jbmsr 02-07-2014 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Finhawk (Post 1917538)
Have you had a chance to run it like that yet
Bruce

We have have it this way for 10 months now without any issues and we didn't separate the return. One zone will still cool another zone if the door is open.

Jesse

counched out 02-07-2014 01:57 PM

I must have missed something. What where you trying to do. I looks nice.

counched out 02-07-2014 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr (Post 1913862)
Works well. One minute = 5 gallons.

Flows after hose reel through two cut offs, a one way valve, and a spring loaded flush lever to activate. Also has a cut off Y to supply a separate hose and sprayer

I must have missed something. What where you trying to do with this setup. I looks nice.

senior-cit 02-07-2014 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smack2020 (Post 1565984)
When we first got our 42QD, we kept getting rub marks on the tile where the rollers sat. I cleaned the rollers real well and now we don't get the marks on the tile. We also make sure floor is clean prior to bringing in slides.

:confused:How did you access the rollers to clean them? My coach has tile floor and there are track marks and witness marks where rollres set in the tile floor when slides are in.

37F Adventurer, co-pilot Gramma Joycee, 2 small dogs, Red Kia Soul on dolly.

smack2020 02-08-2014 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by senior-cit (Post 1918110)
:confused:How did you access the rollers to clean them? My coach has tile floor and there are track marks and witness marks where rollres set in the tile floor when slides are in. 37F Adventurer, co-pilot Gramma Joycee, 2 small dogs, Red Kia Soul on dolly.

With the slide in, I laid on the floor, lifted the carpet on the edge of the slide floor, looked under carpet, found roller, and scrubbed with a damp cloth. Once I cleaned all rollers as good as I could, I extended the slide about an inch, and cleaned again. I repeated the process until I felt I had the entire roller clean.

I probably should do it again, just as preventative maintenance.

Jbmsr 02-08-2014 08:55 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I replaced 60 complete Interior light assembly's and 7 (added one in the passenger front cargo ) cargo lights with the new 2014 LED technology. The interior light housings and globes look exactly the same. What an amazing difference. I will send more pics later.

Jesse

Finhawk 02-08-2014 09:47 AM

That must have been spendy. I replaced all the bulbs in the front living area and 2nd bath with LED's. The bedroom and main bath are being replaced as the others burn out. I really detest doing those over the kitchen counter!!!

dethomson 02-11-2014 10:50 AM

Hi Jesse,

What a great idea...I would like to convert the light fixtures in our 42QD to LED. I tried replacing the existing halogen bulbs with LED and wasn't happy with the light output. What is name of the manufacturer and the part number of the fixtures you purchased for your coach?

Dale

Finhawk 02-11-2014 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dethomson (Post 1923117)
Hi Jesse,

What a great idea...I would like to convert the light fixtures in our 42QD to LED. I tried replacing the existing halogen bulbs with LED and wasn't happy with the light output. What is name of the manufacturer and the part number of the fixtures you purchased for your coach?

Dale

I bought my LEDs from an outfit called Scintluna(sp). They are a Warm White 15LED that fit well into the existing fixture. I can't tell the difference between them and the halogen bulbs. They were about $6.50 each if I remember right. If you install them on the smaller fixtures, you have to cut off about 1/4" of the wire to make it fit.

Jbmsr 02-11-2014 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dethomson (Post 1923117)
Hi Jesse,

What a great idea...I would like to convert the light fixtures in our 42QD to LED. I tried replacing the existing halogen bulbs with LED and wasn't happy with the light output. What is name of the manufacturer and the part number of the fixtures you purchased for your coach?

Dale

Hi Dale.
www.itc-rv.com
40 x 69240NS-21-3K
20 x 69231BNS 3K
60 for the inside

You will be very happy with light output.

Pm me if you want and I will give you more details.

Jesse

Jbmsr 02-11-2014 05:45 PM

3 Attachment(s)
DW loves this.

Jesse

marco1b 02-11-2014 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr (Post 1585736)
Thanks smack2020!
I had Atlas glass and mirror cut it to size. (40"x 73") It was 1/8th inch thick to keep the weight down. I had them install an anti shatter material on the back for safety (it was white so it looks good from the living room). I got the black trim at Pep boy's (it was door trim). I used the two sided tape recommended by the glass company.

Thanks,


Jesse

Jesse, love the mirror. I too have a 2013 QD but have only stayed overnight on night as it is in storage until Spring when I go full time. That night i noticed the light and love what you did with the mirror. You mentioned double sided tape. Does that mean you just taped it on to the door? or is it also screwed down too?

Jbmsr 02-11-2014 06:12 PM

I told the glass company that screwing to the door was a deal breaker for me. They recommended a tape that would not fail along with an anti shatter shield. They did say that if I ever wanted to remove it that they could do it without any damage.

Jesse

marco1b 02-11-2014 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr (Post 1923495)
Hi Dale.
Home
40 x 69240NS-21-3K
20 x 69231BNS 3K
60 for the inside

You will be very happy with light output.

Pm me if you want and I will give you more details.

Jesse

I'm considering doing the same thing on the lights in my 2013 Tour, in hopes of being able to spend more time dry docking. What should I expect in estimated costs and time to make the changes? Did you do any analysis on the energy saving in making the switch?

Thanks for sharing,

Marco

Jbmsr 02-11-2014 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marco1b (Post 1923605)
I'm considering doing the same thing on the lights in my 2013 Tour, in hopes of being able to spend more time dry docking. What should I expect in estimated costs and time to make the changes? Did you do any analysis on the energy saving in making the switch?

Thanks for sharing,

Marco

Approximately $650.00 inside. 2 half days with a helper keeping me loaded with supplies. I found it quicker to drop a row of lights at a time then cut the wires on all the row then crimp the wires then screw them all in then install all of the lenses. Uses 1/3 the amps and 10% of the heat output.
I used the same light assembly's to upgrade an 06 Suncruiser. The owner loves them.
Jesse

Jbmsr 02-11-2014 08:49 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I like this lube!!!
Attachment 55934

Jbmsr 02-12-2014 05:53 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Locking master bath.

Jbmsr 02-12-2014 05:59 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Sturdy jack pads. Two 2x12's screwed together.

smack2020 02-12-2014 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr (Post 1924969)
Locking master bath.

Good idea, but I like to barge in on my wife while she is in the shower.

Jbmsr 02-12-2014 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smack2020 (Post 1925010)

Good idea, but I like to barge in on my wife while she is in the shower.

LOL! Maybe she will leave it unlocked for you.
Jesse

Finhawk 02-12-2014 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr (Post 1924969)
Locking master bath.

Another good idea. I didn't think about it but a Mother-in-Law is coming for a visit so that might make a big difference. I shudder to think about walking in on her!!:rolleyes:

Jbmsr 02-12-2014 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Finhawk (Post 1925053)
Another good idea. I didn't think about it but a Mother-in-Law is coming for a visit so that might make a big difference. I shudder to think about walking in on her!!:rolleyes:

LOL, Thats what gave me the idea!

Jbmsr 02-12-2014 07:27 PM

Hi to all
 
https://youtu.be/WA11sy6_WAA

Jesse

Finhawk 02-12-2014 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr (Post 1925096)

Where did you get that thing?? Do you realize how much money you have cost me?

khogle2 02-12-2014 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr (Post 1923559)
DW loves this. Jesse

Does the Tour already have the sliding drawer in this location, or did you add the entire drawer and wastebasket? I think it's great.

Jbmsr 02-12-2014 08:56 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by khogle2 (Post 1925177)

Does the Tour already have the sliding drawer in this location, or did you add the entire drawer and wastebasket? I think it's great.

Thanks khogle2
I moved the water filter back a bit and added the drawer as well. Allows for a slightly bigger trash can.

Jesse

Jbmsr 02-12-2014 09:15 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Finhawk (Post 1925109)

Where did you get that thing?? Do you realize how much money you have cost me?

We like to wave at our oncoming RV friends and found that half the time they don't see us. When I saw the cool Micky Mouse hand I knew that I had to visit my local craft store and make it wave. Wooden box built around a 12v windshield wiper motor painted black with a rubber pad on the bottom and front to protect the dash and window.

Jesse

Attachment 56025

6.5" x4" x 3 1/2"

Jbmsr 02-12-2014 09:42 PM

2 Attachment(s)
The Fantastic Fan vent covers are nice to have when it is raining out or while moving. I installed the smoked grey color and wasn't happy with the look. I changed them out for the gloss black covers. The black doesn't let as much light in but I don't use the fans for light. They are very easy to install. Also easy to remove to clean. Just four clips and they lift off. This is an Awsome company. They want you happy with there products.
Jesse

khogle2 02-13-2014 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr (Post 1925212)
Thanks khogle2 I moved the water filter back a bit and added the drawer as well. Allows for a slightly bigger trash can. Jesse

Thank you.

kjburns 02-13-2014 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr (Post 1925096)

<British accent> Have you taken leave of your senses? </British accent>

Your Tour projects had serious uses until you crossed the line with this one. It's got Monty Python written all over it :)

BTW, if you're ever in the Prescott, AZ area, feel free to swing by here and park for a while.

Jbmsr 02-14-2014 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjburns (Post 1926567)

<British accent> Have you taken leave of your senses? </British accent>

Your Tour projects had serious uses until you crossed the line with this one. It's got Monty Python written all over it :)

BTW, if you're ever in the Prescott, AZ area, feel free to swing by here and park for a while.

LOL! Thanks

Jesse

Jbmsr 02-19-2014 07:38 PM

Generator Tray Squeak
 
Generator Tray Squeak

Hi Mark
When you get that good looking coach out of the snow, try this.
Stay warm!
CRC Industrial Power Lube - YouTube

Jesse

marco1b 02-20-2014 07:14 AM

CRC Videos
 
Jesse, great videos on the fixing the squeal on the gen set slide out. The squealing on your 1st two videos match to a tee, the noise I'm having. The CRC definitely fixed the issue. I will make sure I always have a couple of cans on board. The videos are a great way to show the problem and fix!

After buying and bringing the coach back to Iowa in December, I ended up with a lot of salt and grim on the coach, that unfortuantly I couldn't clean off until yesterday. While not ideal temps (mid 40's) I took the opportunity to give the coach a bath. Today we are under blizzard warning. :sad:

Would you have any suggestions on how to clean up the aluminum wheels? A friend who has owned a Winny for sometime said that the wheels only need to be washed not needing any additional treatments (I need to get the manuals out to verify), but I noticed dark spots (likely from the salts and road grim), that looks awful.

Got a quote ($155) yesterday for the bedroom mirror and tape but not the trim. They won't install the mirror unless I bring the coach in, which is currently not an option with all the snow. So a trip to the auto store to find some trim and I'll be ready to go.

Thanks for all the great information on the coach. I have so much to learn!

Mark

Jbmsr 02-20-2014 06:17 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by marco1b (Post 1935747)
Jesse, great videos on the fixing the squeal on the gen set slide out. The squealing on your 1st two videos match to a tee, the noise I'm having. The CRC definitely fixed the issue. I will make sure I always have a couple of cans on board. The videos are a great way to show the problem and fix!

After buying and bringing the coach back to Iowa in December, I ended up with a lot of salt and grim on the coach, that unfortuantly I couldn't clean off until yesterday. While not ideal temps (mid 40's) I took the opportunity to give the coach a bath. Today we are under blizzard warning. :sad:

Would you have any suggestions on how to clean up the aluminum wheels? A friend who has owned a Winny for sometime said that the wheels only need to be washed not needing any additional treatments (I need to get the manuals out to verify), but I noticed dark spots (likely from the salts and road grim), that looks awful.

Got a quote ($155) yesterday for the bedroom mirror and tape but not the trim. They won't install the mirror unless I bring the coach in, which is currently not an option with all the snow. So a trip to the auto store to find some trim and I'll be ready to go.

Thanks for all the great information on the coach. I have so much to learn!

Mark

Me too Mark. Sorry to hear about the Blizzard warnings. Great price on the mirror. I purchased a detailing kit at a Wit rally. I love many of the cleaners in it and for sure the wheel polish. I believe you can just buy the polish. www.dwginternational.com
Jesse

bertman 02-23-2014 07:27 PM

Tour Ellipse QD Bath Door
 
2 Attachment(s)
Re the talk about the door on the rear bath of the QD, I had to remove the door to reglue a joint. After it was off, I couldn't believe how much bigger the bath seemed to be. After showing to DW, we both agreed the door had to go. She replaced it with a curtain and spring rod. The curtain closes sufficiently to shield from eyes or for privacy, open when you like the extra space. Besides, there is the sliding door on the bedroom that we close for complete privacy. Also note the mirror on the bedroom side of the wall. I read posts of placing a full mirror on the sliding door, but consider this alternative. You can easily stand in front of it and when viewed from the front of the coach it makes the coach seem much deeper! Does not interfere with the slide closing.

bertman 02-23-2014 07:37 PM

Tour Ellipse QD enhancements
 
2 Attachment(s)
Also wanted to show off my handywork on my QD. Added a drawer under the cooktop above the dishwasher. Makes a convenient place for knives, cooking utensils, etc. The existing blank panel was removed and used for the drawer front. Secondly, I added a ceiling fan in the living room/kitchen. I used the same brand of fan that Winne uses in the bedroom. Power was obtained from the existing ceiling vent fan location. Does a great job of moving air with or without using AC. Both fans utilize a remote control so that fan speeds and on/off can be controlled remotely. Anyone want details, let me know.

Jbmsr 02-23-2014 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bertman (Post 1940967)
Also wanted to show off my handywork on my QD. Added a drawer under the cooktop above the dishwasher. Makes a convenient place for knives, cooking utensils, etc. The existing blank panel was removed and used for the drawer front. Secondly, I added a ceiling fan in the living room/kitchen. I used the same brand of fan that Winne uses in the bedroom. Power was obtained from the existing ceiling vent fan location. Does a great job of moving air with or without using AC. Both fans utilize a remote control so that fan speeds and on/off can be controlled remotely. Anyone want details, let me know.

bertman
You are brilliant! I love it all! We are having that drawer! What an awsome idea! Can't wait to show my DW.
Jesse

Ranger Rick 02-24-2014 01:27 PM

Bertman
 
Love the drawer, how much did you enlarge the original opening and how deep did you make the drawer? I noticed the back of a electrical box on the right side, obviously you couldn't go beyond that for drawer depth. Also interested in how you mounted drawer guides? Great idea and I look forward to your response.

Ranger Rick
2013 Tour QD

marco1b 02-24-2014 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bertman (Post 1940967)
Also wanted to show off my handywork on my QD. Added a drawer under the cooktop above the dishwasher. Makes a convenient place for knives, cooking utensils, etc. The existing blank panel was removed and used for the drawer front. Secondly, I added a ceiling fan in the living room/kitchen. I used the same brand of fan that Winne uses in the bedroom. Power was obtained from the existing ceiling vent fan location. Does a great job of moving air with or without using AC. Both fans utilize a remote control so that fan speeds and on/off can be controlled remotely. Anyone want details, let me know.

Great job on finding more drawer space in the kitchen. I would have never thought of that. Please share on how you did it, as it is going on my growing list of things to do.

Thanks,

Mark

bertman 02-26-2014 01:25 PM

2 Attachment(s)
The Kitchen Drawer . . . Pop off the blank plate above the dishwasher. Enlarge the cutout to 3 1/2" high by 19" wide. Look to the back of the opening. At the rear is a metal plate that is part of the guard for the range top. Fasten a piece of 3" high by 20" wide by 3/4" wood to this plate. This will make it easier to fasten the drawer slide brackets. Drawer is 18" wide and 20" deep by 2 1/2" high. Made from 1/2" Baltic Birch Plywood. Drawer slides are Woodworkers Hardware (wwhardware.com) KV8400 BRV18. These are made for RV use with a stay closed feature (VERY IMPORTANT!). About $20. Use the blank plate removed in first step as the drawer front. I did find the exact drawer pull that WB uses on the above site but don't have the P/N. I also fabricate a simple piece of sheetmetal fastened to the top of the cutout and extending to the rear of the stove top. Not sure if this is really necessary as there is absolutely no heat or open flame below the stove top. But, just a precaution. Let me know if you need more info.

bertman 02-26-2014 01:31 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Hey JBMSR . . . nice slide out for the trash. But, I have to say . . mine is better!!!! 38 bottles of the finest, refreshment! Just kidding, but I'll let the DW deal with the trash, I'll manage the wine!

Jbmsr 02-26-2014 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bertman (Post 1944798)
Hey JBMSR . . . nice slide out for the trash. But, I have to say . . mine is better!!!! 38 bottles of the finest, refreshment! Just kidding, but I'll let the DW deal with the trash, I'll manage the wine!

I LOVE IT!
LOL
I have a trash tray.
You have a get trashed tray!

Jesse

marco1b 02-26-2014 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bertman (Post 1944793)
The Kitchen Drawer . . . Pop off the blank plate above the dishwasher. Enlarge the cutout to 3 1/2" high by 19" wide. Look to the back of the opening. At the rear is a metal plate that is part of the guard for the range top. Fasten a piece of 3" high by 20" wide by 3/4" wood to this plate. This will make it easier to fasten the drawer slide brackets. Drawer is 18" wide and 20" deep by 2 1/2" high. Made from 1/2" Baltic Birch Plywood. Drawer slides are Woodworkers Hardware (wwhardware.com) KV8400 BRV18. These are made for RV use with a stay closed feature (VERY IMPORTANT!). About $20. Use the blank plate removed in first step as the drawer front. I did find the exact drawer pull that WB uses on the above site but don't have the P/N. I also fabricate a simple piece of sheetmetal fastened to the top of the cutout and extending to the rear of the stove top. Not sure if this is really necessary as there is absolutely no heat or open flame below the stove top. But, just a precaution. Let me know if you need more info.

Bob, thank you for the very detailed instructions. My coach is sitting in the cold right now but this project is defintely on my list. One of the first things I noticed after getting the coach was the limited drawer space, particularly for larger utensils. This is perfect! When I actually get to the project I may have some additional questions.

Thanks for sharing!

Mark

Ranger Rick 02-27-2014 09:31 AM

Drawer above dishwasher
 
Bertrand,thanks for the detailed response to drawer install. It looks like you also installed rear mounting brackets to attach slides in the back, if that is true do you have a part number or are they just kv 8400 rear brackets? Thanks again.


Ranger rick
Tour QD 2013

counched out 02-27-2014 12:55 PM

front drawer
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by bertman (Post 1944793)
The Kitchen Drawer . . . Pop off the blank plate above the dishwasher. Enlarge the cutout to 3 1/2" high by 19" wide. Look to the back of the opening. At the rear is a metal plate that is part of the guard for the range top. Fasten a piece of 3" high by 20" wide by 3/4" wood to this plate. This will make it easier to fasten the drawer slide brackets. Drawer is 18" wide and 20" deep by 2 1/2" high. Made from 1/2" Baltic Birch Plywood. Drawe:thumb:r slides are Woodworkers Hardware (wwhardware.com) KV8400 BRV18. These are made for RV use with a stay closed feature (VERY IMPORTANT!). About $20. Use the blank plate removed in first step as the drawer front. I did find the exact drawer pull that WB uses on the above site but don't have the P/N. I also fabricate a simple piece of sheetmetal fastened to the top of the cutout and extending to the rear of the stove top. Not sure if this is really necessary as there is absolutely no heat or open flame below the stove top. But, just a precaution. Let me know if you need more info.

Bob, very nice job. I went out and started on mine, but noticed my front blank is only 3 3/8" wide. Yours must be wider to make your opening 3 1/2" wide. It looks like I can on go only 3 1/4" wide on the opening unless I am missing something. Also did you remove the cooktop or just work through the opening you made in the front. Again very nice job.

sawdustsal 02-27-2014 08:04 PM

OMG! I just KNEW that we could have a drawer there! Now the husband has no excuses because it's already been done! WooooHooooo!
THANK YOU!

Freestyle21 02-28-2014 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sawdustsal (Post 1946738)
OMG! I just KNEW that we could have a drawer there! Now the husband has no excuses because it's already been done! WooooHooooo!
THANK YOU!

LOL someone's in trouble!

Jbmsr 02-28-2014 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by counched out (Post 1946165)
Bob, very nice job. I went out and started on mine, but noticed my front blank is only 3 3/8" wide. Yours must be wider to make your opening 3 1/2" wide. It looks like I can on go only 3 1/4" wide on the opening unless I am missing something. Also did you remove the cooktop or just work through the opening you made in the front. Again very nice job.

I wonder if the clearance is different with the type of cook top.
Jesse

Jbmsr 03-02-2014 09:29 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Our Ideal Rest controllers and cords finally have a home and no longer irritate the DW. Took me 16 months. Sometimes the simplest things matter so much.

Jesse

majfrizz 03-02-2014 11:41 AM

Has anyone changed the two lights over the bed (head area) where they come on individually. Too much light sometime with both of them on. Been trying to find a small lamp to fit on the shelf next to the bed, no such luck. even considered one of those clamp on lights, did not work well.

bob

marco1b 03-02-2014 07:28 PM

Ideal Rest
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr (Post 1950108)
Our Ideal Rest controllers and cords finally have a home and no longer irritate the DW. Took me 16 months. Sometimes the simplest things matter so much.

Jesse

Jesse, even though I've only had the bedroom slide out a few times I think, each time I've tripped over the cord for the controls. I like the solution you came up with. This is also going on my list of things to do.

I've noticed that when the slide is in (bed is up), that after a few days in storage, one side of the bed is deflated much more than the other side (I do bring the pressure down on both sides prior to bringing in the slide). Is this a common experience or is it more likely that I have a leak? :confused:

Thanks,

Mark


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