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Gordon Dewald 12-07-2019 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Electra 225 (Post 5065867)
I'm waiting on the verdict about that myself. I've got a WGO service advisor doing some checking for me.
The Grand Tour 45RL is exactly the same as a regular Tour/Ellipse except for a couple feet added. It's still the Maxum chassis. As far as I know, (waiting to hear if there is a difference), the wheel wells, axles, etc, are all the same. The 45RL runs 295s on all wheels. I assume WGO upped the rears to accommodate the extra two feet in length, and possibly because of the side radiator.
When I know something definite I'll report back here.

Will be looking at this with interest. We are coming up to tires and would like to have the same size all around.

nova 42qd 12-07-2019 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Electra 225 (Post 5065867)
I'm waiting on the verdict about that myself. I've got a WGO service advisor doing some checking for me.
The Grand Tour 45RL is exactly the same as a regular Tour/Ellipse except for a couple feet added. It's still the Maxum chassis. As far as I know, (waiting to hear if there is a difference), the wheel wells, axles, etc, are all the same. The 45RL runs 295s on all wheels. I assume WGO upped the rears to accommodate the extra two feet in length, and possibly because of the side radiator.
When I know something definite I'll report back here.

I had not thought about that. I took a look at the specs and there is a difference. The 45RL has a wheelbase of 291 inches. My 42QD shows a wheelbase of 279 inches. However I would think the offset betwwen the rear wheels would be the same. I will need to do some reserach with Freightliner and Winnebago. Thanks.

Jbmsr 12-08-2019 09:23 AM

1 Attachment(s)
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc....5-295-75r22.5Attachment 268896
Jesse

Electra 225 12-08-2019 03:40 PM

Thanks for the chart Jesse. What do you think? Think it's doable?

boyland 12-08-2019 04:50 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Here is my modification and additional of additional weep hole covers i filled in the gap area with scotch bright scrubbing pads i cut them down and siliconed them in place i added a little to the prongs and sealed the top and front.

Wind noise pretty much gone.

Here is pictureAttachment 268934

I went to the truck wash after i made the modification and verified they drained well

boyland 12-08-2019 04:52 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Now how do these lights turn on and what fuse controls them?

I believe there is a switch on the light side that read aux light that is suppose to light up when you flip it mine does not so i assume the fuse is popped but which fuse or is there some other way they turn on?

Attached is the lights i am referring tooAttachment 268937

Gordon Dewald 12-08-2019 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Electra 225 (Post 5067806)
Thanks for the chart Jesse. What do you think? Think it's doable?

Bill - I think it would be alright. Only thing I do not know about would be the sidewall separation between the drive tires. If we could find out if the 45' has the same rims we should be good on all fronts.

Jbmsr 12-08-2019 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Electra 225 (Post 5067806)
Thanks for the chart Jesse. What do you think? Think it's doable?



Electra
Not sure.
I would also have to get with Freightliner and Winnebago to feel good about making the change. For now I opted to replace with with the same size and make as original.

Jesse

Electra 225 12-08-2019 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boyland (Post 5067904)
Now how do these lights turn on and what fuse controls them?

I believe there is a switch on the light side that read aux light that is suppose to light up when you flip it mine does not so i assume the fuse is popped but which fuse or is there some other way they turn on?

Attached is the lights i am referring tooAttachment 268937

Blaine, those are your fog lights if I'm not mistaken? They should turn on by pushing IN on your headlight on/off switch. That's how mine, Jesse, and Gordon's works......and being your Journey is a 2013, I'm sure you have the same switch. You should see a green icon on the instrument cluster indicating they're on.
If they're not your fog lights, disregard my answer.
BTW, great mod on the weep hole covers.

Electra 225 12-08-2019 09:54 PM

Gordon & Jesse,
Yes, I agree and for the moment erring on the side of caution. The rim size and sidewall clearance between duals, along with wheel well clearance is what I'm waiting to get a final verdict on also.
It should work without issue if those variables check out. My only other concern, though not potentially disastrous really, is a change in speedometer accuracy. I'm almost sure there would be, when referring to Jesse's chart, noting the difference in revolutions per mile between the two tires.
I suppose a tweak in the chassis software would remedy that easy enough?

boyland 12-09-2019 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Electra 225 (Post 5068300)
Blaine, those are your fog lights if I'm not mistaken? They should turn on by pushing IN on your headlight on/off switch. That's how mine, Jesse, and Gordon's works......and being your Journey is a 2013, I'm sure you have the same switch. You should see a green icon on the instrument cluster indicating they're on.
If they're not your fog lights, disregard my answer.
BTW, great mod on the weep hole covers.

I give it a try tonight.

On the weep hole covers i found later ones i cut the pieces larger and stuffed them in a bit tighter even worked better.

Something I was going to add i use a sealant called M1 Adhesive sealant it works much better than silicone does not degrade with weather or time. I eternabonded and M1 all joints on the 2002 motorhome 10 years ago still looks just like i put it on yesterday. I wanted to say this because i also used M1 on these not Silicone for the same reasons on these. I am passing this along because it is used more in Commercial flat roofing so it is not as widely known in the RV business but some recent units i have seen them use M1(or Like) sealant it is much better than the Dicor type self leveling stuff and is pretty much a 1 and done product. Just in case anyone is interested. If not use silicone for this modification.

NITEHAWK 12-09-2019 08:59 AM

How is this for chasing a leak? I fought a leak somewhere up on our flat fiberglass roof all summer. I recaulked every opening, replaced the AC gaskets (2), Raised up my solar panels and recaulked the feet, replaced caulk around every vent opening and still had a leak!
Water would show up on inside cabinets on both sides of the coach.
Finally, after caulking for a second and sometimes third time I had almost half a tube of caulk left so I told myself "why not use it up because it will just harden in the tube and be wasted" so I used the remainder and sealed all around the housing base of my King Dome satellite dish.
Wonder of wonders!!! The leak is gone!!

Gordon Dewald 12-09-2019 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Electra 225 (Post 5068313)
Gordon & Jesse,
Yes, I agree and for the moment erring on the side of caution. The rim size and sidewall clearance between duals, along with wheel well clearance is what I'm waiting to get a final verdict on also.
It should work without issue if those variables check out. My only other concern, though not potentially disastrous really, is a change in speedometer accuracy. I'm almost sure there would be, when referring to Jesse's chart, noting the difference in revolutions per mile between the two tires.
I suppose a tweak in the chassis software would remedy that easy enough?

I am not particularly concerned about the change in speedometer. I have a Gold Wing and the speedo is in Honda Miles (about 10 under) so I rely on a Garmin Zumo for speed. I use the Rand McNally in the coach. Currently it is very close to the speed on the speedometer.

Most of the time I am in cruise. I have the GPS warning me of speed at 6 over (RV Tools/Warnings/Speed Limit Warning). Set at 5 over, warns at 6.

boyland 12-09-2019 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NITEHAWK (Post 5068670)
How is this for chasing a leak? I fought a leak somewhere up on our flat fiberglass roof all summer. I recaulked every opening, replaced the AC gaskets (2), Raised up my solar panels and recaulked the feet, replaced caulk around every vent opening and still had a leak!
Water would show up on inside cabinets on both sides of the coach.
Finally, after caulking for a second and sometimes third time I had almost half a tube of caulk left so I told myself "why not use it up because it will just harden in the tube and be wasted" so I used the remainder and sealed all around the housing base of my King Dome satellite dish.
Wonder of wonders!!! The leak is gone!!

Funny you mention the satellite we have monstrosity on ours i never use satellite and was going to to remove it when i had i chance well as soon as i got home from AZ sure enough we got some rain and there was a small water leak almost directly below the dish well i only had one evening to work on it so i removed the dish portion left the base in place put eternabond all the way around the base and sealed all point with white M1 leak gone. At some point when the weather is not bad i will remove that thing completely.

i will do the same thing around each vent the air units have there own seal i ad a bead below them as well.


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