iRV2 Forums

iRV2 Forums (https://www.irv2.com/forums/)
-   Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/)
-   -   Winnebago Tour Tips (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/winnebago-tour-tips-161008.html)

Jbmsr 01-16-2020 04:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loydt (Post 5108925)
I bought a new kitchen faucet awhile back and finally got around to swapping it out yesterday. Man, I had no idea what kind of job i was taking on. To get to the water connections on the existing faucet, you basically have to completely disassemble the cabinet there under the sink. Winnebago installed those connections BEHIND the very back partition under there making them nearly impossible to get to. Just a heads up to anyone wanting to take this on.

I also noticed another wood problem when I started on this. When the temperatures swing from cold to hot I always notice some trim pieces here and there than grow or shrink. Anyway I am going to have to trim the wall panel just a bit now because it is bowing out right next to the kitchen slide, where the rubber trim piece is.



Loydt
I would like to see a pick of your new faucet.
Thanks
Jesse

sbkahn 01-17-2020 09:00 PM

Hello Jesse,

I have the same problem on my full-wall slide (Re: Your Post #940). The screws under the slide rail trim are starting to come out. Weird thing is, it has gotten worse with the coach in storage not driving. In the past, I removed part of the trim and tightened one of the screws. I suppose this did not work, since it's getting worse. I see you replaced the screws, but did you also drill new holes and put more screws in the entire length of the rail?

I was going to remove them, use Loctite, and replace them but not sure that will work.

Thanks in advance. Any help on this would be appreciated.

I'll try to get over to the coach in storage and post a photo.

sbkahn 01-17-2020 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loydt (Post 5060136)
Welp, it didn't. I have water pouring down on my dash from somewhere on that front cap. I hope my windshield hasn't started leaking.

I am going to have to schedule a service visit somewhere to get the coach pressurized and checked for leaks.

Hello Loydt,

I had the same issue, went up top toward the front and there was a hole in my Sat Dish wiring plate. You should be able to find the leak, just go up top toward the roof, check the seam between the front cap and the roof + look for any holes. Even a small hole will do it in a heavy rain.

sbkahn 01-17-2020 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr (Post 5094983)
We removed everything in the cargo compartments and with all doors open the smell went away. I took the cap off of the Aquahot antifreeze fill cap and DA says that is what she has been smelling. It does smell rancid.
I am thinking that we may have a slight leak in the system causing the smell and may need to flush the system and replace the antifreeze.
I will call Aqua-hot tomorrow and get there recommendation.
Thanks for the replies
Jesse

Jesse,

You may also want to check the AH Heat Exchangers for leaks in the basement and in the coach. I happened to find a post related to this --> AQUA HOT HEAT EXCHANGERS

Not sure why you would need to flush the AH, that's a big job. Recommend you get a refractometer and test it. Color should be yellow. If darker, someone could have added the pink boiler antifreeze, it's ok to mix them, it just doesn't look good.

Also, you probably have checked this, but I had an old container of holding tank deodorant leaking down to the cargo bay from my bathroom cabinet. Didn't take too long to find this. Just a thought, could be someting similar to this.

Please let us know what you find out.

Hope you find it.

Jbmsr 01-18-2020 05:59 AM

Winnebago Tour Tips
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by sbkahn (Post 5114356)
Hello Jesse,



I have the same problem on my full-wall slide (Re: Your Post #940). The screws under the slide rail trim are starting to come out. Weird thing is, it has gotten worse with the coach in storage not driving. In the past, I removed part of the trim and tightened one of the screws. I suppose this did not work, since it's getting worse. I see you replaced the screws, but did you also drill new holes and put more screws in the entire length of the rail?



I was going to remove them, use Loctite, and replace them but not sure that will work.



Thanks in advance. Any help on this would be appreciated.



I'll try to get over to the coach in storage and post a photo.


sbkahn
I did drill new holes in the mechanism frame only, not the coach wall beam. I wanted the new screw to bite into the wall beam, not the slide mechanism frame. I drilled between the other screws. I would do the complete length of the slide mechanism frame and use new like kind screws. Do not remove all of them at once. Leave at least one in. Their is a flat plate behind the beam that will fall if you do. I did that and man it was very difficult to get it back into place.
Notice that Winnebago didnít pre-drill the slide mechanism first, they just used the self taping screw to go through both the slide mechanism and the coach wall beam at the same time.
Thatís why the screws are retracting.

When you do this, you will be certain it will hold going forward. The new screws pull it in tight.
I used a small dewalt impact driver.

Call me any time if you need anything.

Jesse

Pm for number

Thanks for the Aquahot help

bridluz 01-18-2020 06:53 AM

AC question? Iím in Texas so yes Iím still running my AC. Last night my rear unit tried to come on but then ďclickedĒ off almost immediately. The other two acís running fine. And the unit in question will run just the fan. But not the cooling unit or compressor I guess. Any thoughts? (These are the 13.5 units). Thanks in advance!!!

Jbmsr 01-18-2020 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bridluz (Post 5114577)
AC question? Iím in Texas so yes Iím still running my AC. Last night my rear unit tried to come on but then ďclickedĒ off almost immediately. The other two acís running fine. And the unit in question will run just the fan. But not the cooling unit or compressor I guess. Any thoughts? (These are the 13.5 units). Thanks in advance!!!



Bridluz
Each time you turn it off then back on their is a delay period before the compressor kicks on. Something like 60 or 90 seconds, I canít remember.
Did this happen once or does it click each time you turn it of then back on after the compressor delay period?
Did you happen to notice any odd burnt wire smell recently?
These units have a metal box (J-Box)
containing relays that over heat and can be independently replaced or you can replace the complete (J-Box) One of the relays commands power to the compressor via 12v/120 to compressor.

You mentioned that the inside fan is running but is the outside fan running?
If not the compressor would quickly overheat and the thermo protector would click it off.

Could be a number of reasons your compressor is not coming on.

J-box relay
Low Freon level
Outside fan defective
Bad Outside fan capacitor
Bad compressor capacitor
Bad compressor (look for oil leakage)

Jesse

bridluz 01-18-2020 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbmsr (Post 5114652)
Bridluz
Each time you turn it off then back on their is a delay period before the compressor kicks on. Something like 60 or 90 seconds, I canít remember.
Did this happen once or does it click each time you turn it of then back on after the compressor delay period?
Did you happen to notice any odd burnt wire smell recently?
These units have a metal box (J-Box)
containing relays that over heat and can be independently replaced or you can replace the complete (J-Box) One of the relays commands power to the compressor via 12v/120 to compressor.

You mentioned that the inside fan is running but is the outside fan running?
If not the compressor would quickly overheat and the thermo protector would click it off.

Could be a number of reasons your compressor is not coming on.

J-box relay
Low Freon level
Outside fan defective
Bad Outside fan capacitor
Bad compressor capacitor
Bad compressor (look for oil leakage)

Jesse

Thanks as always Jesse!!!!!!

The inside fan turns on no problem and will run by itself.
But, when I switch the mode to cool with ac there is the delay and the compressor (I'm guessing) comes on but sounds like a switch trip it and turns off both the ac and the fan. It trips so fast I don't think it has time to even warm up to overheat. So I wouldn't think the outside fan would be the cause.
Once it trips I have been turning it off or only running the fan for fear of messing something up if I leave it on.
This does not effect the other units.
I have not smelt anything strange. It ran all day yesterday fine and wasn't until last night that it "tripped."

All the parts you mention to check are on top of the rig contained in the unit itself?

Thanks again!

Jbmsr 01-18-2020 09:07 AM

Winnebago Tour Tips
 
4 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by bridluz (Post 5114671)
Thanks as always Jesse!!!!!!



The inside fan turns on no problem and will run by itself.

But, when I switch the mode to cool with ac there is the delay and the compressor (I'm guessing) comes on but sounds like a switch trip it and turns off both the ac and the fan. It trips so fast I don't think it has time to even warm up to overheat. So I wouldn't think the outside fan would be the cause.

Once it trips I have been turning it off or only running the fan for fear of messing something up if I leave it on.

This does not effect the other units.

I have not smelt anything strange. It ran all day yesterday fine and wasn't until last night that it "tripped."



All the parts you mention to check are on top of the rig contained in the unit itself?



Thanks again!


Attachment 272595
Attachment 272596
Attachment 272597
Attachment 272598






I will try to send you a link to a video that could help soon.

Jesse

sbkahn 01-18-2020 09:21 AM

Hello Bridluz,

Had this issue on my last coach with Coleman Mach 3. I replaced the Start Capacitor and the Run Capacitor that Jesse mentioned above. That fixed the issue. You can get these for your Coleman Mach 8 at Camping World. While you are up there, you may want to replace the Fan Capacitor but I have never had any issues with that capacitor and your fan runs, so this may not be necessary.

Here are some instructions i wrote up a few years ago for replacing the Capacitors.

Both capacitors cost about $60 or less. Be careful when installing these, unplug the RV and turn-off the AC breaker just in case. Also, when you remove the capacitors they may have voltage in them, so short the contacts together with an insulated screwdriver before you handle the wires to remove them. Remove the wires one at a time and install them on the new capacitors. Reassemble the electrical components shroud and the AC cover.

Also, I'm surprised the AC breaker did not trip.

I hope this helps.

Electra 225 01-18-2020 09:32 AM

Sage advice on the capacitors. There's been people killed or nearly killed while poking around an old unplugged TV or guitar amp, and touched a 500v cap.

creativepart 01-18-2020 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bridluz (Post 5114577)
AC question? I’m in Texas so yes I’m still running my AC. Last night my rear unit tried to come on but then “clicked” off almost immediately. The other two ac’s running fine. And the unit in question will run just the fan. But not the cooling unit or compressor I guess. Any thoughts? (These are the 13.5 units). Thanks in advance!!!

Look on the roof for an oily residue. Our rear AC exhibited the exact same behavior - ran fine then only the fan would run and when the compressor started to ramp up it would just shut down.

A pin hole leak in a refrigerant line cause all the refrigerant to leak out. The system would shut the compressor down due to the lack of refrigerant.

The refrigerant has oil in it and it would be visible inside the A/C cover. Mine showed a trail of oil that ran down to the rear rain gutter.

They said it wasn’t repairable and replaced the unit (45-days out of warranty). About $1,200 with labor. Mine was a 15K heat pump and we were on the road in the middle of June.

Jbmsr 01-18-2020 06:14 PM

These Mack-8ís can be repaired.
Key is to find someone that wants to.

Traveling to Memphis I called a hvac wholesale supplier in Memphis. They recommended a mobile guy that could repair our AC and be fair. I called him and told him what the wholesaler said. He met me at the campsite, found a leak in the system, repaired the leak, and installed a charging port. He charged it with 410A. $125.00. Been working for over 5 years now.


Jesse

bridluz 01-18-2020 06:41 PM

I will try to send you a link to a video that could help soon.

Jesse[/QUOTE]

That would be awesome and thanks for the pics. I crawled on the roof and saw no oily residue. I'll check it out with the cover off when I get home in a few days. Thanks again! And if you find a video that would be awesome.
Brian


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:24 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.