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-   -   Damon F53 won't start,fuel gauge acting up (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/damon-f53-wont-start-fuel-gauge-acting-up-167897.html)

keithz29 07-09-2013 01:27 PM

Damon F53 won't start,fuel gauge acting up
 
Hope this is posted in the right spot.I went to start my Damon a couple of days ago,and no go.It cranks fine but wont start.I believe it lost the ground for the fuel pump and gauge because the gauge is reading way past full.Im sure the pump isn't running,though I do hear the relay pull in and drop out in a few seconds as it should.Inertia switch is ok.Checked voltage at the inertial switch an and when the relay is in its 12 volts,when it drops out it still show 6 volts and I figure that's a feedback from the gauge due to no ground.The question here,does anybody know where to the frame rail this thing grounds to?Ive looked and can,t seem to locate it.On a f53 with a 75 gallon tank is the access hole in the tank in the front of the tank or rear.I may have to pull this thing out to see whats up with it.Any help appreciated.

cb1000rider 07-09-2013 01:32 PM

might help to know what year - v10 or V8.

redfire312 07-09-2013 01:33 PM

97 F53 v8my pump is in the middle of the tank, had similar symptoms where it would crank but not start sometimes then it would work fine for months, but this time I cant get it started. currently waiting on a new pump to arrive from online parts store.

jamesrxx951 07-09-2013 01:58 PM

The ground is labeled G300 and it is bolted along the frame rail. Where exactly, I do not know but it should be close to the pump/tank. It will be a black wire.

subford 07-09-2013 02:25 PM

If you have a mid 90's F53 and it sounds like you do the ground should be as in the photo below.
The voltage you are reading is coming from the FPM circuit at pin #8 on the PCM Computer more than likely.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...04a0439ad4.jpg

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keithz29 07-09-2013 05:50 PM

Sorry cb1000rider ,that is a 460.Actually when I bought this the Triton engine was out .I guess the frame was an instock frame that was purchased ahead of time.Subford is that to the front or rear of the tank and which side.I think I did see a ground to the rear of the tank on the drivers side rail but didn't see the plug.Thanks for the quick help guys.I'll go take a look tomorrow if its not raining.

subford 07-09-2013 06:00 PM

It is on the drivers side frame rail near the back of the tank.
It is G300 as stated above in the diagram below.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...13276cf6ba.jpg

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keithz29 07-15-2013 07:11 PM

Okay well finally got back to check the ground on the frame and it looks. I'm assuming it runs straight to the tank from the rail. I'm wondering if I've had a mouse attack on the connector on the tank? I've looked under the coach, no line of sight to see it, so I probably will have to tip the tank. Anyone that has done this is the wiring and hoses long enough to let the back down without disconnecting everything. I had a generator problem too. Again crank no start. Fuel pump wasn't working. Took it off, a little liquid wrench, worked with it and is okay now. I think it was just varnished up. Definitely working now, now if the carburetor will cooperate. Tomorrow I'll know if I'm pulling that off too!

jamesrxx951 07-15-2013 08:12 PM

There is limited hose and wires to drop the tank. The last one I dropped the body builder had a really short hose to the generator which was a real pain. There is a special tool needed for removing the fuel lines. They are a push on connector that has spring loaded fingers that hold it in place. The tool will release the fingers. Im pretty sure your tank will have studs and nuts that hold the pump in place. Be very careful removing the nuts as the studs do break easily. Some PB blaster works well and be very easy on backing out the nuts. Even running the nut back and forth can help. A wire brush works well for cleaning the threads also.

keithz29 08-10-2013 03:57 PM

Pump
 
Ok thanks jamesrxx951.I was tackling some other problems and those are fixed now back to the pump and fuel gauge problem. Dropped the tank yesterday, no real problem there. The fuel line releases, what a pain. Those are really only for quick assembly at the assembly plants. I had to get a different tool as the plastic release tools wasn't cutting it. Just got that and will be back at it Monday. I am kinda worried about a rusty tank, hope not. This fuel now days, what a can of worms they've opened. On another note anybody know how the interlocks for the slide room operate? Is it tied to a solenoid in the distribution box. It has 3 White Rogers solenoids in it, one I know is the main disconnect, not sure about the others. The model of the box is DC3000.The distribution box was made by an engineering company that was in Elkhart. I think they are no longer around. Unfortunately I don't have diagrams for how it's wired or I could figure it out. I'm not having problems with those systems, just trying to figure how it operates for when I may have a problem. This is on a 1997 Damon Intruder. Thanks

jamesrxx951 08-11-2013 10:27 AM

Keith,

It appears that this motorhome has the nut style clamping system for the fuel pump. If you have not removed the pump yet, be very careful. First I always use compressed air to blow away any debris. Then use a good penetrating oil like Kroyal (spelling???). Use a wire brush and clean as much exposed thread as possible. The studs can easily snap so the most prep work you can do to help will save a lot of headache. Use hand tools and gently break loose the nuts. Work it back and forth if you feel some resistance. Use as much penetrating oil as you want. Just take your time and you should be ok. We live in the north where salt is used so yours may be better than what I have experienced. Tighten down to Tighten to 7.5-9.5 Nm
(67-84 Lb-In) . Over torqueing will also cause the studs to snap. If you do have some rust in the tank, you can clean it out. If it is excessive, take the take to a tank or radiator shop that can clean it out and reseal it. I have sent several tanks out for cleaning and the interior seal and it can save a lot of money. Last I remember the tank is $1500.00. The sealing is much cheaper.

keithz29 08-11-2013 10:28 PM

Will do jamesrxx951i'll know more tomorrow.Thanks

keithz29 08-20-2013 07:36 AM

Ok tanks out, pumps out, got a new pump. I got the Motorcraft pump the part number is PFS48 or F6PZ9H307DB..Now the problem is nobody has the pigtail that is supposed to be used for a chassis built 3/1997. It is a 4 wire harness and I'm assuming it just has some differences in the way the plug is wired. If I could find an accurate diagram pinout for the plug i could figure it out. Anyone have a diagram like that? Thanks

subford 08-20-2013 10:39 AM

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