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53block 07-27-2013 02:08 PM

Air conditioner help - ducted to non ducted
 
Hello brethren. I have a 2000 fleet wood bounder that I'm fixing to do an air conditioner swap. Im down here Central Texas we see temps in excess of 105 regularly. I have never been satisfied with the performance I my front air conditioner since purchasing the Motorhome. The turbulent air distribution has never put out very good flow to the front ducts so no matter what, the Motorhome gets warm in the front on a Hott day. The rear air conditioer gets so cold I could hang meat. We are the weird couple that has to have air movement and noise when we sleep so we have the fans on all the time anyways. I'm going to replace the front ducted Coleman Mach ac with a atwood ac non ducted because it is my belief that it will cool better with less parasitic loss from the duct work and will cool quicker and recover better. At cook offs we are in and out alot. I only have one concern. My current climate control/load shed is intellitec. We are not worred about the constant on fan, just worried about how to wire it. Since this a/c has its own thermostat, how will I still be able to utilize the controller since the 12v heat also runs off the front a/c. I know technically all the front a/c needs is 120 power to work but don't wanna screw up anything in the process. I'm pretty proficient at troubleshooting and mechanics, so please fire away.

jesilvas 07-27-2013 02:18 PM

Few thoughts: Why are you changing the AC unit anyway? Have you tested intake vs. exhaust temp difference and compressor amperage draw?
Find that out first, THEN, you may not need a new AC after all. You have may air loss into the attic or cold air being sucked up into the intake.
If the AC is good, then just put a non ducted ceiling assembly up there, and keep your Coleman roof unit.

geno39 07-27-2013 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jesilvas (Post 1660285)
Few thoughts: Why are you changing the AC unit anyway? Have you tested intake vs. exhaust temp difference and compressor amperage draw?
Find that out first, THEN, you may not need a new AC after all. You have may air loss into the attic or cold air being sucked up into the intake.
If the AC is good, then just put a non ducted ceiling assembly up there, and keep your Coleman roof unit.

That sounds good to me.

spritz 07-27-2013 03:00 PM

We have 2 non ducted Colemans, the back one will freeze you out of the MH I do not kid you the front one very rarely gets used. 2 adults and 2 dogs 31 year old MH:dance:
Although today I might have to turn on the heat, again I am not kidding I don't even think its 50 out side.:icon_peace:Where's Mr. Gore?

fletch460 07-27-2013 03:16 PM

Jmoney, before yoou do all that, pull return air cover. My son has the same unit as I did. Mine woould never pull temps down as his. When I pulled the cover inside, where they had run the wires to the unit, there was an elongated hole into the attic that was sucking hot air from the attic. Sealing foam fixed that and now cools like a champ here in TX.

sc3283 07-28-2013 03:04 AM

Jmoney go to the Monacosection and read about the cold air dump vs ducted.

I'd try the cold air dump prior to swapping AC units...Mine cools FAR better using the cold air dump as compared to the factory ductwork.

53block 07-28-2013 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sc3283 (Post 1660957)
Jmoney go to the Monacosection and read about the cold air dump vs ducted.

I'd try the cold air dump prior to swapping AC units...Mine cools FAR better using the cold air dump as compared to the factory ductwork.

Thanks for all the replies. I have tried the dump but it requires the removal of the filter housing and removal of the turbulent pan. I am gettin 20 deg cooler air coming out of the main 2 vents it comes out of. The front 4 barely has any air coming out. The air conditioner has blow by leakage from the intake exhaust area. The ducting in this Motorhome is not very efficient and have plugged several holes with spray foam but it didn't make any difference. I know in my gut that upgrading to a non ducted unit to utilize more even distribution in this case. Plus these Atwood units can be ran off a single 2000 watt generator. I have a husky 2200 that goes with us everywhere in case I need a backup genny. If anyone has an idea how to hook up this new air conditioner while still preserving my propane heat setting on the intellitec, I'm open to suggestions.
No really interested in trying to make this old ac work better, sometimes when you got it in your mind that you want a new one, nothing will satisfy you until you get the new one

jesilvas 07-28-2013 05:23 PM

Well, go ahead and get the new one.
The "non ducted" only has to do with the ceiling assembly, not the upper unit. That's it.
If you get a Coleman non ducted, thermostat controlled ceiling assembly, and block off all your exhaust to dump straight, then you'd be surprised.
I've never installed an Atwood, because I never needed to, so I can't help with wiring.

wa8yxm 07-28-2013 06:04 PM

An AC unit has 3 parts. The "Above the roof" part. The "In the roof" part and the "Below the ceiling" part

It's the middle part that determines if it's ducted or not and the lower part that you need to replace to let the air flow.

In fact, odds are very good that you can convert the middle part if you get the right lower part. I will describe.

Find the duct inlets (The outlet from the in the roof part) and block them, A tin can lid screw mounted over them should work.

now find where the non-ducted ceiling trim lets the air back into the RV and make sure the path to there is clear (you may have to cut a hole) Job done. Savings, about a kilobuck

53block 07-29-2013 06:40 AM

I don't understand what your saying?
I understand there are 3 parts
Top, middle, and lower.
I understand that all top units are the same, it's the middle and bottom parts that determine if its ducted or not.
Where I'm not following you is I can't just buy the Coleman air distribution box and bolt it right up without modification? Seems to me all I should have to do is remove the duct tube in the middle of the intake, remove the turbulent panel to allow the dump, bolt on the air distribution box and presto. What am I missing?

wa8yxm 07-29-2013 08:03 AM

You got it, you can buy the lower and middle parts and bolt them in or just the lower (Ceiling trim/grill) and modifiy the in-roof part. Actually considering the cost of the in-roof part it won't make that much difference. It is relatively inexpensive.

One other thing... My 38' house came with a pair of Carrier Air V 13,500 BUT ducted units... Because of a workmanship issue that took 7 years to show up one of them failed, the other would have but, forewarned (By the failure of the first) we fixed the workmanship issue on it.

I replaced it with an Advent Air 15,000 btu unit, 11% more cool.

So, how much more power does that AA unit draw... Not so much as one watt. it has the exact same power consumption rating as the smaller Carrier (Seems they make 'em more efficient now days)

If you end up making major mods.. That may be a consideration as well.

Finally, DUCTED units are a lot less noisy than non-ducted. I often read threads where folks complain about noise from the A/C.. that is the major advantage of ducting, less noise. I can hear my Advent, if I listen for it.

John Hilley 07-29-2013 08:13 AM

I wouldn't think changing the AC and disconnecting the thermostat would affect the furnace function. It would still control the furnace based on thermostat switch setting and temperature.

YC1 07-29-2013 08:49 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Do some maintenance on the roof portion and modify the register. Mine now works far better. With the register modified I can direct the air down and along the center versus straight down. The lower restriction allows much more air flow. It makes more noise but when it is 110 outside I really don't care.

I have several more pictures but the internet connection is lousy.

YC1 07-29-2013 08:52 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Open register


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