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-   -   Dash A/C Wiring Burns - Troubleshooting HELP (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/dash-a-c-wiring-burns-troubleshooting-help-19838.html)

Mac and Chris 04-04-2006 09:39 AM

Hi folks. I should have posted this a week ago, but I thought this would be fixed. Now we're up against the clock for some non-optional travel.

I'm at an otherwise great RV repair center that's having difficulty troubleshooting a problem I have. Here's what's happening.

The wiring harness for the dash HVAC controls burned up. We replaced it, thinking it was caused by a crimped wire, and it started to smoke so it wasn't a crimped wire.

The two wires that smoke run to a pressure switch/sensor on in the AC Condensor box. Wires are Green/Red and Brown/Blue. (There are 2 other wires on the switch/sensor, but they are not effected)

When they smoke, they burn all the way across the dash to the main harness, and eventually blow the 25 amp fuse.

Yes, we could just replace the sensor/fuse (I'm all for it) but they don't want to just replace parts until they can be sure of the cause. I have to appreciate them thinking this way.

If anyone has specific knowledge of this I'd be in your debt, and a large quantity of your favorite beverage is on me. I'll check back often.

Mac

EDIT: Quick Update... we think it's the compressor clutch and are replacing it in the morning.

Mac and Chris 04-04-2006 09:39 AM

Hi folks. I should have posted this a week ago, but I thought this would be fixed. Now we're up against the clock for some non-optional travel.

I'm at an otherwise great RV repair center that's having difficulty troubleshooting a problem I have. Here's what's happening.

The wiring harness for the dash HVAC controls burned up. We replaced it, thinking it was caused by a crimped wire, and it started to smoke so it wasn't a crimped wire.

The two wires that smoke run to a pressure switch/sensor on in the AC Condensor box. Wires are Green/Red and Brown/Blue. (There are 2 other wires on the switch/sensor, but they are not effected)

When they smoke, they burn all the way across the dash to the main harness, and eventually blow the 25 amp fuse.

Yes, we could just replace the sensor/fuse (I'm all for it) but they don't want to just replace parts until they can be sure of the cause. I have to appreciate them thinking this way.

If anyone has specific knowledge of this I'd be in your debt, and a large quantity of your favorite beverage is on me. I'll check back often.

Mac

EDIT: Quick Update... we think it's the compressor clutch and are replacing it in the morning.

Paulin 04-05-2006 08:41 AM

Max,

Generally speaking, overheated conductors are caused by either an overload (too much current) or a short circuit. A short circuit can deliver very high curents which can cause burning. I'd recommend checking the components as well as the harness for a short. If frozen, your compressor and/or compressor clutch may be the cause.

Regards,
Paul

Mac and Chris 04-05-2006 04:19 PM

Yes, we've got ourselves a short https://irv2.infopop.cc/groupee_commo.../icon_wink.gif. The other day while testing it I put a clamp on DC Amp Meter on the wire, and when the switch closed we measured 60 amps, so it's a dead short.

Today they replaced the compressor. Can't buy just a clutch for this model (go figure). Lots of waiting for the part, then a variety of problems delayed things. Tomorrow morning we expect to have it cranked up and testing by 10:30 AM. Fingers all firmly crossed.

Mac

Mac and Chris 04-07-2006 06:33 PM

End result:

The pressure switch controls two things; compressor clutch, and auxillary electric fan. The side that was causing us grief was the control for the electric fan relay. This switch works by supplying ground. Somewhere in that line is a dead short to a positive wire, and when the switch closes it melts the wire. We could not locate the relay itself (deep withing the harness) but suspect that's where the problem is.

Temporary fix, we ran another line from the fan to the dash, and installed a manual switch.

Permanent fix, I will install a new relay circuit, bypassing the one that is failing and hidden. The new circuit will run through the pressure switch as before, so it will be fully automatic, with the added benefit of a manual switch on the dash to cool engine after shutting off.

Mac


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