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-   -   Bounder: '93 Bounder Water Pump and Water Heater (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/93-bounder-water-pump-and-water-heater-241430.html)

mckinley 04-07-2015 12:57 PM

'93 Bounder Water Pump and Water Heater
 
Interestingly enough, if threads don't get posted for a long time, one can no longer post to them. The previous thread on topic that I'd found was in the Monaco owners forum, with no updates for the last 3 years. So, here's a new thread to discuss water pumps and water heaters. In my case specifically a '93 Bounder 37J, but this would apply to many other makes/models.

I'm in the process of replacing the original Attwood WH - 6 gallon, spark ignition, no electric, with a new one that also includes electric heat. The old WH had one of those hotrod things installed, but the cord for it was just a zip-cord type cord that plugged into a nearby external 110V outlet - klugy at best. So, in the process of installing the new WH, I wired a 110v outlet into the WH compartment, and used a power cord from the WH to the outlet, all inside the WH compartment where it's concealed *and* protected. The power comes from the same external outlet, just wired internal to the coach into the outlet box with romex.

One of the challenges I faced is that the new water heater needs another switch, to turn the electric on and off. The original switch console is mounted on the front of the galley cabinet, and combines both the water pump switch, WP indicator light, WH switch, and WH reset light. I bought a new Attwood WH switch panel to install, and had cut the hole in the galley cabinet. I needed +12v and ground from the old switch panel, so the plan was to use the old WH +12v plus the ground from the WP switch. Alas, when I pulled the 1/4" quick connect off the pump switch, it ripped the terminal out of the switch!!! (read that OH {fill in the blank}!) I thought "oh well, I can use the WH switch" even though it's not a momentary switch like the WP switch is. Then I tried to remove the +12v connector from the WP indicator light (meant to do WH) - its terminal ripped out too. I thought "oh well, I can use the WH light instead", and proceeded to rip the terminal out of that one as well. So, both lights, and the momentary switch that I really needed are now both broken. Those blade quick connects seem to really grab after 22 years. Even though I could get the WH going by using the Attwood switch panel, I don't have the parts to (safely) work the WP due to the broken light.

After a bunch of research, I contacted Sigma, the switch manufacturer (see Sigma Switches), and got a retail distributor for those switches - see Burnstines. Two caveats to buying from Burnstines - the only shipping method for their online store is UPS, which was going to be $17 to ship 4 switches. The other is that their website does not include all of the Sigma switch models. Both can be remedied by calling them to order. USPS shipping was $7-something. I'm leary of USPS losing stuff, but figured I can follow up if it doesn't arrive.

So, even though I had planned to use the Attwood panel and abandon the old WH switch and light, the current plan is to use the original 4-hole faceplate with a new switch and light for WP, and a lighted switch for the WH gas side (switch for gas with integrated light for reset light) and another switch for the electric side of WH. That's assuming I can configure the light to work properly with the circuitry. If not, plan B is to use the Attwood switch panel.

On the water pump thing. There is a bit of a "christmas tree" - borrowing oilfield terminology - in the wet bay, which provided the connections from the whitewater tank, water pump, and coach water supply lines to two drains, using 3 valves. The 22-year old valves had started to leak, plus I discovered that the Shurflo 2088 2.8GPM pump had started to leak, too. I bought new push-on PEX connectors to replace all of the old crimp-on christmas tree components, cut the old christmas tree out, and replaced it with the new. I ordered a new Seaflo 5GPM pump to replace the old one. It's set for 60PSI, but I'll adjust the pressure switch down to about 45PSI when I install it.

Photos to follow later, when things are buttoned back up again. Right now I'm waiting for the pump and switches to arrive.

CLIFFTALL 04-07-2015 01:07 PM

1 Attachment(s)
You can post to an old thread if you check this box.
Attachment 90820
However if your information is new and fresh and different from the other thread , it's best to start a new one.

Mike Ivey 08-28-2015 10:43 AM

I purchased a used 93 bounder and have a question. Is the city water inlet in the outside shower and waste water compartment.
Secondly, When I hook to water supply the water comes out the fresh water tank fill cap once it is full. Any idea why?
Thanks

mckinley 08-29-2015 07:11 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Ivey (Post 2718878)
I purchased a used 93 bounder and have a question. Is the city water inlet in the outside shower and waste water compartment.
Secondly, When I hook to water supply the water comes out the fresh water tank fill cap once it is full. Any idea why?
Thanks

I'm going to try to attach photos of mine - it's a diesel, 37J. There's a photo of the driver side wet bay, with the outside shower in its own small compartment lower left. Yes, the city water is in the wastewater compartment, along with the 30A electrical, phone, and cable connections. Yes, IMHO that's poor design to mix whitewater with blackwater with electric. I think newer rigs have plugs on the outside of the rig for electric.

On the passenger side wet bay, there's a "christmas tree" which I'd mentioned replacing in the original post. There's three valves in the christmas tree: one to drain the cold piping, one to drain the whitewater tank, and one to connect the cold pressure line to the whitewater tank. In the picture of the christmas tree, the valve in the foreground is the whitewater tank drain valve. The other two valves are hard to see behind the pump piping - the one closest to the pump inlet is the one that connects the pressure line to the whitewater tank. The one furthest back is the drain for the cold pressure. The check valve in the pump is supposed to prevent backflow from the cold pressure line to the whitewater tank.

If the valve closest to the pump inlet is open or leaking, then the city water will flow into the whitewater tank. OR, if the valves in the pump are leaking, that would do the same thing.

mckinley 08-29-2015 01:45 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Same pix, but with labels

mrwrench 08-31-2015 08:50 PM

how do u connect the 4 wires coming from the new heater ?


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