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-   -   How to change Onan QD 10000 Fuel Filter? (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/how-to-change-onan-qd-10000-fuel-filter-256843.html)

pttaylor 07-29-2015 06:28 PM

How to change Onan QD 10000 Fuel Filter?
 
How do I change the fuel filter on the Cummins Onan QD 10,000 Fuel Filter? Thanks.

Gary.Jones 07-29-2015 08:07 PM

I think that it is the same process that I had on my 7.5 KW Onan. My fuel filter was an aluminum rectangle with two brass fittings on it on one side, one for the fuel in and one for the fuel out. The trick was to be very careful with the brass fittings on both the compression ends on the two diesel lines to avoid cross threading. There were some YouTube videos of the process, and everyone said to be sure that you do not cross thread the brass fittings. The other useful hint that I found on the web was that the guy tied socks on his wrists on both hands before he started. The reason for the "sock cuffs" was to keep the diesel fuel from running down your arm as you remove the copper lines from the filter. The diesel will bleed out through both lines and more from the diesel tank/pump and you will get it on you. I followed the advice and used the "sock cuffs", and they really worked. I loosened the filter first, then removed the outflow line, and then quickly the inflow line, and did it over a drain pan so any diesel fuel was caught. I worried about doing it a lot before I got started, but the process went really easily. Maybe some guys on here have some greater experience with the process.... only did it once on my Dynasty, but plan to do it on this Anthem when it is needed.

Gary

pttaylor 07-30-2015 05:06 AM

Where is the fuel filter located?
 
My real question is. Where is the fuel filter located on the Onan QD 10000? And how to access the fuel filter? Thanks

brobox 07-30-2015 06:26 AM

Page 3-6 of the owners manual. Tip, tie a rag around the lower fuel line, it will help to stop fuel from running down your arm when you loosen the line.
https://www.cumminsonan.com/www/pdf/...s/981-0173.pdf

macraekw 10-09-2015 10:52 AM

I am about to service my Onan 10000 for the first time and if I understand the process well enough, the fuel filter is accessed through the front access panel unlike the 7000 series which is removed through a bottom access panel. The filter is at the bottom of the compartment slightly to the right directly under the #1 injector.

smlranger 10-09-2015 12:41 PM

Folks are describing a process (sock around wrist) that was helpful with the 7.5 and 8.0 QD's where you access the fuel filter from the bottom of the generator. On the QD 10K, the fuel filter is just inside the side access door, lower right.

I just serviced mine today and I've decided I will just let the folks at Cummins do mine beginning with my next annual maintenance. The oil filter is easy but both the air filter and especially the fuel filter is a real pain. You must remove the coolant recovery tank to get to the air filter and it is still tight in there.

For the fuel filter, my manual suggests first removing the filter bracket from the frame (bolts thru the lower side of the generator enclosure) then lift the filter and bracket out, remove the filter from the bracket, remove the fuel supply and return lines, then reverse to install the new filter. Even so, getting the filter/bracket out of mine is a PITA. Whomever designed these things just never had to service them. In fact, other than the fuel wanting to run down your arm, filter swaps were easier with my old QD 7.5 than this 10K unit.

Cruzer 10-09-2015 03:59 PM

Yep, it's not easy getting to that filter. Been there, done that. However, with a pair of flare nut wrenches and my Snap-On right angle open ends it really isn't all that bad. They designed those generators to be compact so they will fit but didn't give a whole lot of thought to serviceability - especially for that air filter.

macraekw 10-09-2015 05:51 PM

Thanks Cruzer. Despite what Smlranger describes as a PITA process, I think that I will tackle it using your suggestions. TIP: I've also found that you can get some cheap Harbor Freight flare wrenches and cut them in half so that you can get some more working room.

Cruzer 10-09-2015 07:18 PM

I haven't needed shorter flare nut wrenches. If anything, you'll need the length to break the fittings loose. There is enough swing for that. Those offset open end wrenches from Snap-On are a lifesaver though. Once the fittings are loose they make it much easier to get a good angle on the fittings and swap the wrench around if needed for the next swing.

https://public.snapon.com/R_RRD/Objec...s/VSM5214B.jpg

Ultratravler 10-09-2015 07:45 PM

Anyone know the size wrench needed for the filter fitting's? Thanks.

Dave

Cruzer 10-10-2015 07:50 AM

Not off hand I don't but I do know that they were not metric because I don't have metric offset wrenches. There were varying sizes, most likely in thee 1/2" to 11/16" range.

Ultratravler 10-10-2015 08:21 AM

Thanks Cruzer.

Dave

rv40072 04-01-2016 03:35 PM

Easy way to change fuel filter on ONAN 10k Quiet Diesel
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Cruzer (Post 2777535)
Yep, it's not easy getting to that filter. Been there, done that. However, with a pair of flare nut wrenches and my Snap-On right angle open ends it really isn't all that bad. They designed those generators to be compact so they will fit but didn't give a whole lot of thought to serviceability - especially for that air filter.

I have been dreading this filter change, so I looked on iRV2 to see if there was a simple way to do this and was about to order special wrenches to allow me to work in the tight spot where the filter is located. I kept thinking there had to be a better way. There is!!

Onan left us a lot of extra hose for a reason.

1. Remove the center nut that holds the filter to the bracket. A standard ratchet works fine for this.
2. After the nut is removed, Push the filter toward the rear of the generator about 2-3 inches. This is why the hoses were left so long!
3. Swing the lower hose toward the engine so it will clear the bracket, and then raise it up and rest it on the top of the bracket.
4. Now that both hoses are on top of the bracket, simply pull the filter back to the front and hang it outside the enclosure were you can easily work on it.
5. From there, just follow your normal procedure for swapping the filter and then reverse the instructions to re-install.

It took about 60 seconds to get the filter out of the enclosure.

I hope this helps as you guys have helped me on numerous occasions.

Dennis

CampDaven 04-01-2016 04:03 PM

Speedco does mine. Oil, filter, fuel filter for about $50. I watched the process. No way I wanna do that.


Dave and Nola, RV Mutants

rv40072 04-01-2016 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CampDaven (Post 3003398)
Speedco does mine. Oil, filter, fuel filter for about $50. I watched the process. No way I wanna do that.


Dave and Nola, RV Mutants

I didn't know they would service the generator. For $50 I will let them do mine next time also. Camping World charges $99 for just Oil and Oil Filter. They wanted another $80 for the fuel filter change. Filter is $14 at Advance Auto, and it should take about 5 to 10 minutes depending on familiarity.

macraekw 04-02-2016 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rv40072 (Post 3003375)
I have been dreading this filter change, so I looked on iRV2 to see if there was a simple way to do this and was about to order special wrenches to allow me to work in the tight spot where the filter is located. I kept thinking there had to be a better way. There is!!

Onan left us a lot of extra hose for a reason.

1. Remove the center nut that holds the filter to the bracket. A standard ratchet works fine for this.
2. After the nut is removed, Push the filter toward the rear of the generator about 2-3 inches. This is why the hoses were left so long!
3. Swing the lower hose toward the engine so it will clear the bracket, and then raise it up and rest it on the top of the bracket.
4. Now that both hoses are on top of the bracket, simply pull the filter back to the front and hang it outside the enclosure were you can easily work on it.
5. From there, just follow your normal procedure for swapping the filter and then reverse the instructions to re-install.

It took about 60 seconds to get the filter out of the enclosure.

I hope this helps as you guys have helped me on numerous occasions.

Dennis

I agree with the long hose comment Dennis however I changed my filter recently and went about it in a little different manner which worked great for me. I didn't find this a difficult process at all. I used standard open end wrenches:
1. Remove the rigid metal fuel line closest to the engine block from the filter.
2. loosen the center mounting nut
3. rotate the fuel filter 45 degrees or so towards the engine thus exposing the other fuel filter fitting with the attached flexible rubber fuel line.
4. Remove the rubber fuel line from the fuel filter fitting.
5. Remove the fuel filter center mounting nut and remove the old filter.
5. Reverse the process for installation :dance:

I also thought replacing the air filter was pretty easy. Just remove the three screws in the generator top housing panel and move the coolant reservoir assembly to the side to access the air filter.

RubiconTrail 04-02-2016 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rv40072 (Post 3003375)
I have been dreading this filter change, so I looked on iRV2 to see if there was a simple way to do this and was about to order special wrenches to allow me to work in the tight spot where the filter is located. I kept thinking there had to be a better way. There is!!

Onan left us a lot of extra hose for a reason.

1. Remove the center nut that holds the filter to the bracket. A standard ratchet works fine for this.
2. After the nut is removed, Push the filter toward the rear of the generator about 2-3 inches. This is why the hoses were left so long!
3. Swing the lower hose toward the engine so it will clear the bracket, and then raise it up and rest it on the top of the bracket.
4. Now that both hoses are on top of the bracket, simply pull the filter back to the front and hang it outside the enclosure were you can easily work on it.
5. From there, just follow your normal procedure for swapping the filter and then reverse the instructions to re-install.

It took about 60 seconds to get the filter out of the enclosure.

I hope this helps as you guys have helped me on numerous occasions.

Dennis

I published my take on Dennis' method in another thread a little while back...I believe this is the best method. No special tools, minimal fuel spillage occurs, all of it outside of the cabinet (no messy fuel inside to mop up, just put a pan under it once the filter is outboard) and it takes about five minutes.


edit: pull the dipstick out before you try to remove the filter from the cabinet, makes it easier...

rv40072 04-03-2016 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macraekw (Post 3004265)
I agree with the long hose comment Dennis however I changed my filter recently and went about it in a little different manner which worked great for me. I didn't find this a difficult process at all. I used standard open end wrenches:
1. Remove the rigid metal fuel line closest to the engine block from the filter.
2. loosen the center mounting nut
3. rotate the fuel filter 45 degrees or so towards the engine thus exposing the other fuel filter fitting with the attached flexible rubber fuel line.
4. Remove the rubber fuel line from the fuel filter fitting.
5. Remove the fuel filter center mounting nut and remove the old filter.
5. Reverse the process for installation :dance:

I also thought replacing the air filter was pretty easy. Just remove the three screws in the generator top housing panel and move the coolant reservoir assembly to the side to access the air filter.

I agree on the air filter. A lot of people have commented that getting to the air filter was difficult or required removal of brackets, and then was still difficult. Just as you did, I just removed the three bolts that hold the reservoir, slipped it out the side and let it hang, then reached right in for the air filter. No problem.

Dennis

sdagro 08-07-2016 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rv40072 (Post 3005880)
I agree on the air filter. A lot of people have commented that getting to the air filter was difficult or required removal of brackets, and then was still difficult. Just as you did, I just removed the three bolts that hold the reservoir, slipped it out the side and let it hang, then reached right in for the air filter. No problem.

Dennis

DITTO on the air filter. Took all but 5 minutes to change once I read this post. NOW THE FUEL FILTER....DIFFERENT STORY. After cutting 2 knuckles and a few choice words, I decided to wait on my friend to get back from a long weekend to tackle that part. He works maintenance at one of the nearby plants and is good working in close quarters. I did find it though. Seems that there should be an access hatch to make job easier. But then again has any designer ever considered the consumer side of things. Thanks guys for all the knowledge shared on this site.

FreshAir 08-07-2016 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CampDaven (Post 3003398)
Speedco does mine. Oil, filter, fuel filter for about $50. I watched the process. No way I wanna do that.


Dave and Nola, RV Mutants

Speedco , in Salt Lake City area would not change the fuel filter on my 2016 Aspire 10K Onan. They did all other filters, oil change etc. $60. They started on the fuel and then they claimed because of having to remove the panel for access they were not authorized to continue with the fuel filter change. ? I then called Cummins while it was still on the rack and they said many shops will not do that one and suggested to take it to a Cummins shop. It didn't look like something I wanted to do.

Are we all talking about the fuel filter on the same gen. RV QD. HDKCA 10K ? If so, I'll take a closer look.Thank's

Duoglide1 08-07-2016 08:41 PM

I had the HDKCA in an 07 Monaco Exec. There are two bolts on the outside of the compartment or case right next to where the filter is located. Remove both (10mm I think). Pull the filter outside of the door-the lines are long enough. Change the filter, slip it back inside and re install the bracket bolts. It's MUCH easier to do it outside the case. Good luck.


2012 NuWay HitchHiker 363RSBDA, 2016 Ford F-350 Dually 6.7

royals1212 08-08-2016 01:00 PM

I have a question which is not fuel filter related. Wy question where is the location of the spar arrestor plug? An shouldn't that be pulled and the genny run under a load for about 15 minutes to clean the soot out? I will be servicing mine in a couple of weeks. Thanks

royals1212 08-08-2016 03:01 PM

Found the answer for the clean spark arrestor, every 250 hours. The location on the HDKCA(10k) and the HDKCB (12.5k) is under the top cover. The 11/16 inch hex head plug is located on the opposite side from the servicing door.

jhartrva 03-31-2021 08:42 AM

QD 10000 Fuel Filter Change
 
1 Attachment(s)
This is the way.

Fuel filter change takes about 15 minutes including leak check and reassembly. Will be faster with practice and knowing which tools to have ready.

Fuel filter retaining nut: 1/2” socket at ratchet. Just move the flexible lines up and out of the way to get clear access to the nut.

Large fuel line: 5/8” and 11/16” standard wrenches
Small fuel line: 7/16” and 9/16” standard wrenches

Oil plug (in case you’re doing that too): 7/8” standard socket

Prime the new filter for 30 seconds, then proceed with regular start. I primed and ran the genie for a couple minutes to check for leaks before reinstalling inside the cabinet. Then ran it again to make sure the lines didn’t get loose during reassembly.




Quote:

Originally Posted by rv40072 (Post 3003375)
I have been dreading this filter change, so I looked on iRV2 to see if there was a simple way to do this and was about to order special wrenches to allow me to work in the tight spot where the filter is located. I kept thinking there had to be a better way. There is!!

Onan left us a lot of extra hose for a reason.

1. Remove the center nut that holds the filter to the bracket. A standard ratchet works fine for this.
2. After the nut is removed, Push the filter toward the rear of the generator about 2-3 inches. This is why the hoses were left so long!
3. Swing the lower hose toward the engine so it will clear the bracket, and then raise it up and rest it on the top of the bracket.
4. Now that both hoses are on top of the bracket, simply pull the filter back to the front and hang it outside the enclosure were you can easily work on it.
5. From there, just follow your normal procedure for swapping the filter and then reverse the instructions to re-install.

It took about 60 seconds to get the filter out of the enclosure.

I hope this helps as you guys have helped me on numerous occasions.

Dennis


Golfer Guy 04-04-2021 08:53 PM

Picture is worth a 1000 words.

Thanks

Lloyd in S.C. 10-19-2021 03:53 PM

I know this is a old thread......................

Thanks everyone! They sure did bury that filter. I looked right at it and didn't see it behind the bracket.

Used the "Dennis" proceedure, took about 20 mins.

Thanks again!

ernieh 10-19-2021 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lloyd in S.C. (Post 5955727)
I know this is a old thread......................

Thanks everyone! They sure did bury that filter. I looked right at it and didn't see it behind the bracket.

Used the "Dennis" proceedure, took about 20 mins.

Thanks again!

Just hope that you never have to change the fuel pump. The Onan provided cover plate is blocked by the tray slides which means removal of the generator.

Lloyd in S.C. 10-21-2021 05:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ernieh (Post 5955760)
Just hope that you never have to change the fuel pump. The Onan provided cover plate is blocked by the tray slides which means removal of the generator.

Ugh!!!!

brobox 10-21-2021 06:48 AM

The fuel pump can be replaced on an Entegra without removing the generator as shown here by RubiconTrail. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/cha...ef-325105.html

ernieh 10-21-2021 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brobox (Post 5957577)
The fuel pump can be replaced on an Entegra without removing the generator as shown here by RubiconTrail. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/cha...ef-325105.html

That's great if you have an Entegra. Unfortunately, Tiffin uses a different slide system.

brobox 10-22-2021 04:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ernieh (Post 5958677)
That's great if you have an Entegra. Unfortunately, Tiffin uses a different slide system.

Since this is the Entegra forum, I thought Entegra owners would like to know the generator does not have to be removed as was posted.

19Aspire44B 10-22-2021 04:53 AM

Speedco?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by CampDaven (Post 3003398)
Speedco does mine. Oil, filter, fuel filter for about $50. I watched the process. No way I wanna do that.


Dave and Nola, RV Mutants


Can you elaborate more on "Speedco"? What and where are they? I take it they are qualified to do generator service or you would not have taken it there. Since the filters cost more than $50, I'm assuming you provided your own filters? Please advise.


Thank you,


John

Gary.Jones 10-22-2021 08:35 AM

Speedco used to be a lube and oil change company that specialized in doing OTR truck maintenance. They are located right beside truck stops usually. Loves bought out the company (I think it was Loves) and now they still do what hey did before, but have Loves products at them. They have Luber-Finer and Fleetguard oil filters and many sites will do diesel motocoaches (some do and some don't so call ahead). They are quick and efficient and usually much less costly than getting service from a Detroit Diesel or other service center. I get 53 quarts of Rotella or now their own oil and complete lube and all new oil filters and a computer analysis of the removed oil for right around $400.

Speedco has done all the oil changes and Lubes for all three of my coaches.... always done a nice job at a reasonable cost.

Just Google Speedco and you can get a map of their national locations.... usually right beside a major truckstop and right beside a major interstate.

Gary


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