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Roadtrip414 01-11-2017 07:42 PM

Dometic propane/electric fridge
 
We are having a problem with our dometic fridge. It will not run on propane anymore. When we set it on gas, it will run for a few minutes and then the "check" light comes on. Then we have to manually change it over to electric. Propane heat and stove work fine.

Any ideas what might be causing this?

Thanks,

Roadtrip414

G Schulz 01-11-2017 08:33 PM

The burner and or orifice probably needs to be cleaned.


2009 Safari Cheetah 40'
350 HP Cat
2014 Ford Focus
Air Force One

Inthe70s 01-11-2017 09:28 PM

Mine did the same so I removed the metal panel that covers the flue and I blew air into it. I also cleaned the burner. After doing that, it worked fine. You can search it on YouTube and you can see how to clean it.

CA Harts 01-12-2017 01:54 PM

I had a problem last month the unit would spark and light but not shut off the spark. I measured the 12v power and cleaned the burner, the ground wire connectors and thermocouple. Started working correctly after that.

Good luck

Roadtrip414 01-14-2017 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inthe70s (Post 3413082)
Mine did the same so I removed the metal panel that covers the flue and I blew air into it. I also cleaned the burner. After doing that, it worked fine. You can search it on YouTube and you can see how to clean it.

Thanks for your help. We are going to try this today.

Old-Biscuit 01-14-2017 02:19 PM

Reason you get the 'check' light is due to main flame not 'proving'

When main flame lights off a 'signal' is generated (flame ionization).
This milivolt signal goes back to circuit board proving main flame has been established and is burning correctly

When circuit board fails to get this signal it shuts-down DC to gas valve/spark electrode to prevent an accumulation of unburned fuel

In order for signal to be generated and sent back to circuit board requires:
Clean unobstructed burner tube/slots....no rust/debris or damaged slots
Clean spark electrode....no carbon/soot build up
Spark electrode 'engulfed' in main flame------gets red
Good strong spark from electrode.....1/8" gap
No cracks in electrode ceramic .....watch for tracking to ground while spark electrode is firing (At night----should only see spark at tip of electrode to ground rod or burner)
Good clean grounding......either via ground wire or via spark electrode assembly mounting screw

wa8yxm 01-14-2017 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G Schulz (Post 3412998)
The burner and or orifice probably needs to be cleaned.

My first thought as well

For the O/P here is the sequence
Thermostat calls for COLD
Gas valve opens and ignigition coil sends high voltage to spark rod/flame sensor ignighting gas (We hope).
Rod heats up, after a few seconds ignigion system is turned off and flame sensor kicks in.. If it sees .480 volts it keeps gas flowing.

Possible issues
Burner dirty (Spider nest) or otherwise clogged or out of adjustment causing weak or no flame
Igintion system not working
Flame sensor (Thermocouple) not working (Doubtful)
Flame sensor chip on control board now working (Also likely)

On the Fridge though the burner is #1

Clogged flue, bird's nest, can also cause issues.

YC1 01-14-2017 04:31 PM

I have seen that soaking the little orofice in alcohol as the service manual indicates has solved many problems with your symptoms. It seems a tiny spider or fleck of something gets inside and acts like a little ball valve.

Do not use a needle to clean the hole. The thing can be damaged easily.
Make sure you turn the gas off at the tank and run a burner until lines are clear of gas. You don't want that thing to fire off with the orofice off. It WILL INDEED clear the spider webs out of the back of the refer. Just one tap of the on off button can do it.


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