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PPCPilot 05-24-2018 09:35 AM

DIY help or suggestions
 
Hello again!

I recently purchased a used diesel pusher that was sitting on the coast of Florida...literally. I didn't think about the salt water misting and rusting issues this was going to present to me. I bought the coach prior to flying down there. Other than a few issues with rust this coach should last us a long time.

I am looking for thoughts on how to fix the issues under the coach. The back 1/3 of the cross braces that support the under belly skin is rusting badly. It needs to be stopped and some repair to the supports made. I need a new piece of angle iron under my wet bay as there was a pump leak and a blade valve leak that kept that bay really wet and consequently rusting out the angle iron behind the water cabinet door.

Has anybody done this type of repairs themselves? What advice could you offer? I have a thought to buy some rust stopper type of spray, then an undercoating, and then a new underbelly skin to rivet or screw into place....leaving the old under belly skin there.

I have sent pictures to Newmar and have been assured that my issues are not structural to the frame but only supports to hold moisture out of the under belly skin.

I cannot seem to figure out how to get pics to this site.....ugg. Does this still need a hosting site like Photobucket to upload pics from? I thought we had gotten past that technology and could import directly from our computer...but I can't get it.

In any case, thanks for your thoughts and help.

Mr_D 05-24-2018 09:44 AM

Newmar would certainly know. I've had two DSDP's and it certainly sounds like just the compartment supports.
My Country Coach has a few surface rust spots on the bay framework and slideout tray for the generator. Spent a little time under the rig with a wire brush and a can of Rustoleum Rust Reformer spray.

PPCPilot 05-24-2018 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_D (Post 4205963)
Newmar would certainly know. I've had two DSDP's and it certainly sounds like just the compartment supports.
My Country Coach has a few surface rust spots on the bay framework and slideout tray for the generator. Spent a little time under the rig with a wire brush and a can of Rustoleum Rust Reformer spray.

Thank you for the response. My issue is a little bit more than just some surface spots though. I need to reinforce the bracing so the belly panels don't drop off. I will keep trying for the pics.

PPCPilot 05-24-2018 10:41 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Here is the angle iron needed under the wet bay and the support bars that are rusted out.

ernest917 05-24-2018 01:56 PM

WOW!!!! Ur right..... Some serious repair work needed here....

Zigzag03 05-24-2018 03:21 PM

Hook up with a good mobile welder, keep buying him beer and grilling him steak, besides paying him generously . A good welder of the old school pretty much can fix anything. Out with the old in with the new.

PPCPilot 05-24-2018 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zigzag03 (Post 4206473)
Hook up with a good mobile welder, keep buying him beer and grilling him steak, besides paying him generously . A good welder of the old school pretty much can fix anything. Out with the old in with the new.

This sounds easier than doing it myself! :thumb:

okie mopar 05-24-2018 04:03 PM

Rust
 
You will have to get it raised up some and I would try to replace all the rusted angle iorn. Be easy to just fix it right one time instead of patching it up. Good Luck with it,

Zigzag03 05-24-2018 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okie mopar (Post 4206530)
You will have to get it raised up some and I would try to replace all the rusted angle iorn. Be easy to just fix it right one time instead of patching it up. Good Luck with it,

I agree. if you're serious, and you get the right guy, then work with him to find what you haven't found. The guy no no no the person! you need is a fabricator, not just a welder. Me? I'm a mechanic. I fix machines. Your person is an artist as well as a technician. I've only known a couple of masters in my 50 years of mechanicing but if you get one send him xmas bday cards forever.

PPCPilot 05-24-2018 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zigzag03 (Post 4206547)
I agree. if you're serious, and you get the right guy, then work with him to find what you haven't found. The guy no no no the person! you need is a fabricator, not just a welder. Me? I'm a mechanic. I fix machines. Your person is an artist as well as a technician. I've only known a couple of masters in my 50 years of mechanicing but if you get one send him xmas bday cards forever.

If anyone knows of such a person in the area of Minnesota I would love to meet them! I know people that can weld..but like mentioned here I think I need an artist. Someone who won't burn my coach down to the ground in fixing it and can make it all better!

Kbrede 05-24-2018 10:20 PM

Welcome to my nightmare! I live on the South Texas Gulf Coast and the salt air is really doing a number on our 2000 American Eagle. Luckily I have the tools and talents to do the repairs. Itís just that the body doesnít work as well as it used to. [emoji17] Slowly getting things cut out and replaced.

Ivylog 05-25-2018 01:23 AM

Phosphoric acid is the active ingredient in all rust remover’s and can be bought in the paint department of Home Depot. Treat the areas that you do not cut out to stop the rust. I would use a four-inch grinder with a cut off disks to remove all of the rested material. Weld new painted channels using a water hose to keep the area cool and a temporary metal shield above where you are welding. Fluid film is probably the best under coating/rust preventative spray I’ve found and buy a six pack, it sounds like you’re going to need it. $56 on EBay.

funjnt 05-25-2018 05:39 AM

I would offer our services as I have a welding and fab shop here in se pa. I also travel to fla for the winter hmmmmm. Anyway.

There is a rust remover and a rust converter. I have had good luck with the rust converter, but, it requires you to remove the scaly rust first. When I see scaly rust like that it is of concern as if you can't remove the scale the converter or remover won't penetrate. The converter leaves a nice primer you can then paint. I still prime and two coat paint over it. I stay away from undercoating at times as it can hide rust starting again under the undercoating and you won't see it as easily as paint.

Cutting out the rusty pieces and welding in new ones isn't a huge deal either. Make sure you unplug the Allison transmission tcm, unhook batteries etc. I think the ecm on the engine is ok plugged in.

Primer everything really good maybe twice as primer is a sealer and paint is the coating. Use an oil base primer and paint which is getting harder to come by. Rust Oleum is oil based and tractor supply has a brand also. I do two or three coats of a nice gloss black.

Let us know how you make out.

PPCPilot 05-25-2018 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funjnt (Post 4207223)
I would offer our services as I have a welding and fab shop here in se pa. I also travel to fla for the winter hmmmmm. Anyway.

There is a rust remover and a rust converter. I have had good luck with the rust converter, but, it requires you to remove the scaly rust first. When I see scaly rust like that it is of concern as if you can't remove the scale the converter or remover won't penetrate. The converter leaves a nice primer you can then paint. I still prime and two coat paint over it. I stay away from undercoating at times as it can hide rust starting again under the undercoating and you won't see it as easily as paint.

Cutting out the rusty pieces and welding in new ones isn't a huge deal either. Make sure you unplug the Allison transmission tcm, unhook batteries etc. I think the ecm on the engine is ok plugged in.

Primer everything really good maybe twice as primer is a sealer and paint is the coating. Use an oil base primer and paint which is getting harder to come by. Rust Oleum is oil based and tractor supply has a brand also. I do two or three coats of a nice gloss black.

Let us know how you make out.

Thank you for your input. I must have talented people close to me but I would be willing to travel SOME to make this happen right. I don't possess the skills to do the fab and welding and if I try it I am sure that it will end up worse than it is.


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