So I now have the door switch working correctly. From my testing, I think I have all the functions figured out. So you are correct that the door switch will extend the step any time it is opened when the step lockout switch is off regardless of the IGN retract signal. So if you are driving down the road and the door is opened, the step will extend The only thing the IGN retract does is retracts the step if the step lockout switch is in the on position and the step is out. With the step lockout switch in the on position, if the step is retracted and the door is opened, the step will extend, and remain extended until the switch is turned off with the door closed, or if it gets the IGN signal.

I can't watch electrons work either, I just know how they are supposed to function.

dbemowsk, excellent work on the install and it sounds as though you have the power step function figured out, however I thought I would post from our '93 Pace Arrow Owners Manual on "how the switches operate the step according to the following table"... it has the original Kwikee Electric Steps installed (which includes the wiring diagram of the system, if anyone is interested).
https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1565322281

Mine does not work that way. Your manual has different step functions. It states that with the ignition switch off and the step switch off that the step will be inactive and will not move regardless of door movement. And with the ignition off and the step switch on the step reacts to the opening and closing of the door. On mine, with the ignition off and the step switch off the step works with the opening and closing of the door. with the ignition off and step switch on, if the step is retracted and the door is opened, the step will extend and stay extended until the switch is turned off and the door is closed, or if the switch is left on, the door is closed and the ignition is turned on. I believe on mine the step switch is considered an auto lockout switch. It must be one of the differences between the older non-IMGL controllers and the newer IMGL based step controllers.

I had to replace my step motor and gearbox on my 98 because the gearbox cover broke and I was unable to repair it or find a replacement in a salvage yard (design changed in 99 apparently). Now everything works like that chart except the step switch on/off positions are reversed.
I don't believe my Owner's Manual had that chart in it. I'll have to look...

Being a 98 with the original step, I am sure this is a pre-IMGL step controller which would be why it functions the same as the chart.

I never followed up with this problem but the fuse box was located, quite by accident. location is under the hood on the passenger side. Have no idea why this location. I was away on business but will get to the problem of cking/replacing fuses today. I was away three weeks without running lights which was not needed only traveling during the day. Had another problem which I will start a new thread. Thanks Dave for your efforts!

While on a recent a trip my Genset started surging and would shutdown if AC was started. I used limited road knowledge to no avail and had to seek overnight parking for remainder our trip. Too hot for boondocking. I visited Onan yesterday and learned something I didn't know and never experienced before. It seems weak house batteries caused this problem. They were strong enough for lights and fridge but not the electric fuel pump on Genset. I knew batteries were about finished and planned purchases at end of trip. Live and learn! :banghead:

Onan fuel pumps can test and perform within specs, but fail when they absorb ambient heat from a running genset. This will present with surging and shutdown at varied intervals. It will often start again as normal when it cools off. This can lead diagnostics astray because the pump will test fine when cool, which is typically when one would test it.

I’ve had this problem and it was resolved with a new fuel pump; however, I plan to place an adhesive heat shield on it to prevent future occurrences. Hope this helps...

No running lights problem solved with fuse replacement.

Good information gcasson! I had unit running all day today with everything turned on including both AC units. OS temps were 96 with heat index 112. No problems yet.

OK time to add a post to keep the thread on the first page...


Fellow on the "vintage" forum is looking for parts for a 1978 PA. Everyone go over and say "Hi" and see if you can help him any...

This is good information. I currently have a 4KW Onan genset in my Pace Arrow. When I first purchased the rig, I experienced the surging immediately upon starting the generator, but after some SeaFoam in the gas tank it seemed to get a bit better for a short period, but I didn't run it that long. Later when I tried running it for a more extended period, it ran good for a bit and then began the surging for a bit and eventually died. I was able to restart it, but it died again a short while later. How hard is it to replace the fuel pump in one of these?

My generator has a small inline pump behind and below the unit at the carb end. Couple of hose clamps, wire connections and a mounting screw or two. Just have something to slip over the fuel line so the tank doesn't drain all over you. May be an inline filter there too. If not, wouldn't hurt to add one...
Oh, make sure to hook it up pointing in the right direction, doesn't pump much otherwise (no I didn't do it, someone else did...)

Thanks, I ordered the pump and fuel filter from Amazon yesterday. $32.68 for both on prime, so pretty cheap over all. The filter just threads on to the fuel pump in an inline fashion I looked at the generator and followed the fuel supply line to the carburetor. It goes under the tray that holds the starter solenoid and control board. Looks like I just have to take a few screws out to remove that tray and I bet it is just underneath that tray. I'll post back how things went once I receive everything. Pump should be here tomorrow and the filter on Tuesday.