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nairbg 05-31-2021 08:55 AM

Electric gremlins can be a real challenge, particularly with a complex dual electrical system with an electronic interface such as we have with the BCC (battery control center).

Firstly, the converter is not functional without an AC power supply, such as shore power or genset. So your problem is not the converter.

Off gassing can be a sign of overcharging or overload, so you will have to determine which one it is. New alternators can rarely be defective, but it's possible, so start with getting a meter reading at the chassis battery. Should be in the mid 12v range when everything is OFF. Start the engine and get another reading. Should be in the high 13v - low 14v range. Watch the reading with the engine running for a few minutes.

Warning! Shut down the engine immediately if the battery reading exceeds 15v. A charge voltage of over 14.5 volts indicates a failed voltage regulator which is part of the alternator.

Scot2scot 06-01-2021 06:30 AM

So - had an interesting experience - was able to get rv running and the volt meter on the dash was at times down to zero than up to 12 and so on- it kept doing that until I shut motor off- any idea what that is a sign of, why it woukd do that ? Also, at the same time , I noticed an on and off again clicking noise coming from the battery isolator, so now Iím wondering if thatís the problem ...??

Regwal 06-01-2021 07:25 AM

How old are the batteries? Before I did anything, I would have them checked under load (parts house) to eleminate possibility of being bad or weak. :banghead:
I just read your first post on this problem. Sounds silly maybe but are you sure you have the correct polarity of battery to coach?

Houston1 06-01-2021 07:38 AM

99 pav
 
Newbie to rving 6 month pup got this beauty from friend of orginal owner added 50 in flatscreen redid control box under hood freakining fire waiting to happen ,installed nylon thru bushing . Beefed up frame extension with rewelding factory boogers & added two braces & class 5 hitch great buy 62+ miles on her just minor repairs

donnyman 06-02-2021 07:53 AM

I have/had battery charging problem In my 99 Pace arrow vision of the volt meter bouncing all over the place while driving, having to get home I let it continue and it stopped and the main battery seemed to be charging ok Now I can't get any charge to either battery.



the battery control board is new
all the solenoids are new
I've traced the wiring for errors

the converter fuses are good
generator runs good but no charging to the batteries

engine runs good



This is after the system was supposed to have been repaired, no I won't take it back to be further messed up.

lonfu 06-02-2021 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by donnyman (Post 5775191)
I have/had battery charging problem In my 99 Pace arrow vision of the volt meter bouncing all over the place while driving, having to get home I let it continue and it stopped and the main battery seemed to be charging ok Now I can't get any charge to either battery.



the battery control board is new
all the solenoids are new
I've traced the wiring for errors

the converter fuses are good
generator runs good but no charging to the batteries

engine runs good



This is after the system was supposed to have been repaired, no I won't take it back to be further messed up.

I've seen this before. check and clean the ground wires where they attach to the frame. From battery to frame at the frame. remove, sand frame, sand cable ends, re-install, spray paint.

Houston1 06-03-2021 08:52 PM

99 pav
 
You hav a charging issue on engine alt charging?
Or charging house batts frm engine & gen?
Which is it ?
Engine alt can be checked for output two ways -volt meter or by havin eng runnin & disconnect positive batt cable
Eng runs alt is charging
Gen is different it will be a pwr feed frm gen to batt or batterys this will take a volt meter to check
I hav a 99 pav 35j v10

gts1544 06-04-2021 04:55 AM

General electrical thoughts by a novice
 
FIRST, Ensure that all or your electrical connections are clean, secure and coated with some kind of electrical corrosion inhibitor. I use dielectric grease (conducting) on all of my electrical connections, including clean battery terminals and clamps. I liberally coat the connectors before assembly and do the same after assembly to prevent corrosion. Small tubes of dielectric grease can be obtained at any auto parts store or a more economical "tub" through WALMART ONLINE.


SECOND, We installed 2 @ parallel, boxed, 12 VDC Interstate 4D house batteries into a forward properly reinforced and ventilated basement compartment as our "house" bank in our 1993 Pace Arrow 35 V. We installed a used XANTREX 3000 W inverter near them with its remote switch above the personnel door. We have a ONAN 7000 W generator and 30A "shore power" service so we were good there, but the converter was of the old variety, so we replaced it with a modern, "phased-charging" converter that will not "boil" the batteries when left connected. Additionally, our electrical people installed circuitry that allowed either charging system, chassis or coach, to charge the other's batteries, namely the alternator (chassis) will charge the house batteries once the chassis/start battery has reached a certain level of charge after start. Conversely, the newer converter, powered by the generator or shore power, will charge the chassis/start battery once the house batteries have reached a certain level of charge. After a few hours of driving, our house bank is fully charged. While we are semi-boondockers, we have never felt the need, nor justification, for the expense of a solar set-up. George

donnyman 06-04-2021 09:47 AM

thanks
 
Thank you one and all for your responses, I will try all your suggestion because I have no idea of what to do next. :confused:

Flyer15015 06-06-2021 02:26 PM

Upgrades to our 2004
 
4 Attachment(s)
Our "new to us" 2004 pace Arrow was in need of a couple of upgrades to make life a bit simpler. pictures tell it all.

1. low point drains re plumbed.
2. black / grey water dump pipe added (semi permanent)

Mike in Colorado
:dance:

seatec70 08-16-2021 07:30 AM

12V Bedroom lights
 
Hello everyone. Scratching my head over this Bedroom light issue on my 2006 Pacer Arrow 37c Ford Chassis.
Wa replacing bad light switches over head (underneath cabinets) the bed. Mine has the two reading lights and the two sconces. first one went well adn then when i was working on the reading light i got a mild zap and all bedroom lights ar enot out. even the lights in the closest. the lights in the bathroom and front fo the coach are fine. Is there a fuse for the lights somewhere? so far can't find any fuses that say bedroom lights.

Thank you for your help.

PS. I am a recent full timer and cant take it to a shop for a few days.

seatec70 08-16-2021 07:32 AM

Hmm good idea with the dump pip. have having to wrangle the hose into the opening every time.

CLIFFTALL 08-16-2021 07:33 AM

1 Attachment(s)
My Bounder had a small fuse box ( approx. 6Ē square ) on the bedroom wall that controlled those lights. Attachment 339725

seatec70 08-16-2021 07:43 AM

I have that panel in the bathroom under th synch but didnt see the BDRM general purp. fuse. ill look again. TY


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