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NO this thread will do.............. It sounds to me you need to service the pump hydraulic tank check it and let me know. It uses transmission fluid. |
Buzzer
I'm sorry I explained it wrong. When the coach starts (jacks are up) there is a Ding Ding letting know the brake is on. When the Auto Brake was not "locked up" I would shift into drive or reverse the system would take a couple of seconds to do its thing and the coach would be able to move. Now that the auto brake will not release the ding continues (in any gear)the brake will not disengage and the coach will not move. I want to thank you again for taking the time to read my posts and help me out. Happy Easter to you and your Family.
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Thank you. |
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It still sounds like you need to put some fluid in the brake pump tank, The cylinder that releases the brake is hydraulic. the delay before brake release indicates the release cylinder is not getting enough fluid pressure you will have to check by looking under your unit in the black box if the tank is full you will have to go further with diagnoses. look at the pictures I sent, the fluid tank is shown. |
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Sewer pipe extension pieces? A better explanation is needed or better yet a picture. Are you referring to the black and gray waste water pipes? |
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I have perm moved the sewer termination on my last 3 moho's to the exterior of the coach and sealed around where they exit to prevent rodents from entering into the tank compartment. I've noticed less smell problems in the coach too. Not sure why manufactures seem to not like put the terminus on the outside of the coach. It makes no sense when the blade valves fail that they leak inside the coach rather than outside on the ground. the other plus is that when the grey water tank gets full I can "drip" drain the grey tank as I drive.
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yyzav8r
I like the idea of external waste pipes but fear the possibility of them being broken, I have had two tires blow out and the damage was substantial. the measurements you asked for in this case would be particular to your coach and installation. my future upgrade will include waste valve replacement so I may investigate a external set up also.................. Good luck! |
Electrical - 1993 PA Turbo DP
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While underneath lubing my chassis I discovered a very corroded "junction" mounted along the driver's side rail and just forward of the rear axle. I do not know the purpose or function and the electrical schematics I have do not show this connection.
Any ideas? Plan to clean, repair and reconnect as needed. Pics in order first is forward side, 2nd is side view and 3rd is rearward side of "junction". Attachment 362626 Attachment 362628 Attachment 362629 |
Your in a very cautious situation if you don't understand the automotive parts your looking at. That one rectangle item is a relay with two wires connected to the terminals. You need to have a new relay and wire terminsld at hand before wire brushing to clean.
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It's normal to start with a wire brush and cleaner. BUT before doing anything disconnect the positive battery terminal. If you start wire brushing to clean with voltage present you will make contact and short items out and do more damage than you desire. Two things destroy electricity. Dirt / Heat .
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A couple of updated photos after "cleaning" the electrical contacts. Did not try to disconnect as it appears they could be difficult with the level of corrosion and don't yet have a known replacement solution.
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The relays and other components are all standard automotive parts. I see one wire loose from the connection . I'd use Bolt Buster spray on the terminals . Work the nuts off the studs . When replacing nuts and all cleaned up spray everything with cosmoliene . Like the military uses. The relays must be good or you would be experiencing other problems.
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