Dometic RM7030 Fridge not cold (unit is running, freezer is cold)
A month or two ago I had an issue with my thermocouple, and now it appears I have another issue with my fridge getting cold. I replaced the thermocouple, which fixed my then issue. I don't think this new issue is related, but I though it relevant enough to mention. Now that thats out of the way.
I turned my fridge on (with gas) on Monday afternoon on the lowest setting. Went to load food last night and it was 65 degrees in the fridge. Freezer was about well below freezing (I didn't actually look at the temp, but it was well below 32).
The system appears to be working - burner was burning, freezer was frozen, absorber/pipes were all hot (warm).
Its been about mid 90's all week - so its hot, but not THAT hot out, and in the past when its 105+ I'll see the fridge go up to around 45*, but never 65. The 5th is not perfectly level - I typically have it on 1 1/2" worth of blocks to be level - so its not likely its drastically out of whack.
I'm thinking its probably the thermistor, which I know how to test using ohms.
Are these fridges that temperamental that 1 1/2" out of level can cause cooling issues? And if that were the issue - would the freezer still work properly, but the fridge just not cool?
Like I said - it appears to be working, burner is burning - its just not getting cold. Really kind of thrown off here.
The vehicle needs to be leveled only so it is comfortable to live in (no notice-able sloping of floors or walls).
With that said......depends on which way RV tilts (Absorber tubes need to be slanting downward)
Freezer COLD..food compartment NOT
Could be obstructing/blockage in cooling unit tubing (freezer gets COLD ammonia FIRST---then food conmpartment. Blockage can allow freezer to function and Food compartment NOT)
Could be bad thermistor......could be circuit board issue
Both can cause short cycling of heat source so NOT enough ammonia gets vaporized for effective cooling of both sections
Unplug thermistor and let fridge run 12hr min.
Then check temps
Cold..replace thermistor (Snip-The-Tip is great option)
If food compartment still not down to temp
Will need to force cool but bypassing all controls
Unplug heater element leads and plug diretly into a know working outlet
Run for 12Hrs with element continuously energized
IF Still not cooling ....cooling unit blocked
You state the absorber tubes need to point downwards - does that mean as if you were thinking of the entire fridge as a whole unit. IE, the absorber tubes need to be "below" where you put the food in? In my case - my fridge is on the "passenger" side (if connected to the truck), and my 5th is low on the "driver" side, so its slanted in a manner that the door is pointing "downwards" and the absorber tubes are pointed "upwards." Did I understand your explanation correctly? I am thinking so - and this very well may be my issue. I've never let it be tilted this much/this direction while trying to run the fridge.
We're heading out this afternoon - so I'm packing all food in an ice chest this trip. Once I get it leveled at the campsite I will run the fridge to test this theory. If thats not it, I will try the rest of the trouble shooting in the coming weeks.
Absorber tubes-------LARGE bundle of tubing on lower section of fridge (backside via outside compartment)
They slant downward per design
IF off level causes them to be elevated then gravity flow WILL be disrupted and cause issues (overheating of coolant/tubes, lack of adequate cooling etc)
|All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:16 AM.|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.