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-   -   Equalizer hitch (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f50/equalizer-hitch-493209.html)

Stableduck 06-20-2020 06:43 PM

Equalizer hitch
 
I have decided to nevertheless in a WDH. My correct trailer has a 5500lbs GVW. I am expecting to upgrade to a larger trailer.
Should I get the 6000lbs Equal-I-zer hitch and buy another hitch when I upgrade or get the 10,000lbs hitch?
Iím thinking I could adjust the hitch for the lighter trailer. Am I correct?

St4 06-20-2020 07:18 PM

10,000. I have a trailer ur weight and the 1000,10,000 equalizer works great

BPTS 06-20-2020 09:43 PM

Get an E2 trunnion bar hitch correctly rated for your current rig, probably 8k. Just get uprated bars when you get the new rig.
Too heavy of bars are just as bad if not worse than too light.

crdiokc 06-25-2020 04:13 PM

I got the Anderson WD hutch and I love it. I would look at one of these

BPTS 06-25-2020 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crdiokc (Post 5319387)
I got the Anderson WD hutch and I love it. I would look at one of these

I looked at the Andersen and for a lightweight trailer I see the merit.
But for a heavier trailers I dont feel the concept is sound.
Look how the forces are applied with it vs a conventional bar system. The Andersen wants to pull (rotate) the brackets toward the tow vehicle. The tongue is not designed to incur that rotational load. Do a bit of poking around and you will find references of shifted brackets.
The Andersen is trying to pull the tow vehicle and trailer together in an attempt to put more weight on the steer axle of the TV.
The bar system places the WD load on the tongue in a direct downward force.
The "bellcrank" at the bottom of the actual hitch is a highly stressed component with a single attachment point to the hitch.
On a bar system you have 2 points of contact at the hitch which means the load on the actual hitch is split in half vs the Andersen.
Consider also the hitch on a bar system is either a substantial weldment or forging.
The bar system help prevent "bucking" which is when the TV rear wheels are suddenly unweighted such as hitting a bump.
I dont see the Andersen helping in that situation.
Like I said I feel on a lightweight it is a viable concept.

Camper25 06-25-2020 08:57 PM

I downsized trailers and kept my 10k Equalizer hitch. I use it on my 4k trailer and it works perfect. I'm not picky....

CharlesinGA 06-27-2020 10:51 PM

The problem with the Equalizer is that the bars are not interchangeable. If you have a 10K hitch, you are stuck with 10K bars forever. Most hitches, you can up or down size the bars to match the tongue weight of your trailer. I have a 10K Equalizer I used on a 7700 lb GVWR Thor, and it towed OK but the bars are SOLID, with seemingly no flex in them. This bothers me as I am concerned about the stress on the hitch structure of the truck.

I cannot use the EQ on the Bigfoot without butchering up the fiberglass fairing on the front, so I am looking at a Blue Ox Sway Pro, as it would be very minimal cutting to make it work. The trailer has been used by two previous owners and is an '08 model, without ever having an weight distributing hitch on it.

Charles

crdiokc 06-29-2020 05:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BPTS (Post 5319684)
I looked at the Andersen and for a lightweight trailer I see the merit.
But for a heavier trailers I dont feel the concept is sound.
Look how the forces are applied with it vs a conventional bar system. The Andersen wants to pull (rotate) the brackets toward the tow vehicle. The tongue is not designed to incur that rotational load. Do a bit of poking around and you will find references of shifted brackets.
The Andersen is trying to pull the tow vehicle and trailer together in an attempt to put more weight on the steer axle of the TV.
The bar system places the WD load on the tongue in a direct downward force.
The "bellcrank" at the bottom of the actual hitch is a highly stressed component with a single attachment point to the hitch.
On a bar system you have 2 points of contact at the hitch which means the load on the actual hitch is split in half vs the Andersen.
Consider also the hitch on a bar system is either a substantial weldment or forging.
The bar system help prevent "bucking" which is when the TV rear wheels are suddenly unweighted such as hitting a bump.
I dont see the Andersen helping in that situation.
Like I said I feel on a lightweight it is a viable concept.

Our trailer is an evergreen 29rks It works great I think the trailer is around 6800 lbs empty. I love ours and it seems to work good.

blahargoue 06-29-2020 06:10 AM

There are a lot if good hitch systems on the market and everyone has their favorites. I've had a few over my 40 years of RVing- some OK, some great.
I would select a system that sells different weight bars as stand alone items Closely match your bar rating to your tongue weight. That way you can keep using your hitch system by changing bar capacity as your needs change. I currently use the Blue Ox Sway Pro system. I have friends that use E-2, Equalizer and others and also like their systems.

Persistent 06-29-2020 06:43 AM

Anderson WDH issue
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by BPTS (Post 5319684)
I looked at the Andersen and for a lightweight trailer I see the merit.
But for a heavier trailers I dont feel the concept is sound.
Look how the forces are applied with it vs a conventional bar system. The Andersen wants to pull (rotate) the brackets toward the tow vehicle. The tongue is not designed to incur that rotational load. Do a bit of poking around and you will find references of shifted brackets.
The Andersen is trying to pull the tow vehicle and trailer together in an attempt to put more weight on the steer axle of the TV.
The bar system places the WD load on the tongue in a direct downward force.
The "bellcrank" at the bottom of the actual hitch is a highly stressed component with a single attachment point to the hitch.
On a bar system you have 2 points of contact at the hitch which means the load on the actual hitch is split in half vs the Andersen.
Consider also the hitch on a bar system is either a substantial weldment or forging.
The bar system help prevent "bucking" which is when the TV rear wheels are suddenly unweighted such as hitting a bump.
I dont see the Andersen helping in that situation.
Like I said I feel on a lightweight it is a viable concept.

I have an Anderson hitch. I have a Kodiak Cub 20 foot TT. It works for me now, but did not when I first got it.


The brackets on the "A" frame appeared to shift. I kept remounting them and trying to find what had shifted or stretched.



It turns out the issue is not shifting, but collapse of the thin walled "A" frame rectangular tubing. The lower clamping bolt on the "A" frame mounting bracket embeds itself into the wall of the tubing.



I fixed it by adding shims between the bolt and the "A" frame. It has been stable ever since. I have no sway problems and the leveling is now stable.


I considered replacing the Anderson until I figure out the issue. However, the Anderson is lighter than alternative hitches I looked at. I can lift it to put it into the hitch receiver. Many others weighed quit a bit more. I would have needed help.


I wish you good luck and happy trails ahead!:)

Spurticus 06-29-2020 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stableduck (Post 5312719)
I have decided to nevertheless in a WDH. My correct trailer has a 5500lbs GVW. I am expecting to upgrade to a larger trailer.
Should I get the 6000lbs Equal-I-zer hitch and buy another hitch when I upgrade or get the 10,000lbs hitch?
Iím thinking I could adjust the hitch for the lighter trailer. Am I correct?



You can always email the folks at etrailer. They are very knowledgeable and will offer other options.

I have an equalizer wdh and itís rock solid. Short of spending ridiculous amounts of money on a Hensley or Pro Pride (which I hear are also good), itís one of the top really affordable choices available.

AJE 06-30-2020 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CharlesinGA (Post 5322803)
The problem with the Equalizer is that the bars are not interchangeable. If you have a 10K hitch, you are stuck with 10K bars forever. Most hitches, you can up or down size the bars to match the tongue weight of your trailer. I have a 10K Equalizer I used on a 7700 lb GVWR Thor, and it towed OK but the bars are SOLID, with seemingly no flex in them. This bothers me as I am concerned about the stress on the hitch structure of the truck.

I cannot use the EQ on the Bigfoot without butchering up the fiberglass fairing on the front, so I am looking at a Blue Ox Sway Pro, as it would be very minimal cutting to make it work. The trailer has been used by two previous owners and is an '08 model, without ever having an weight distributing hitch on it.

Charles

The bars are not interchangeable but the hitch itself is. By adding or removing the spacers (washers) from the hitch, you can change the angle to apply more or less pressure on the bars.

250 Diesel 07-02-2020 09:11 PM

Question about this also
 
Hello all, I the new guy. Need help with a hitch also. I have got a 25rk vibe hitch weight 600 dry so probably 750 maybe loaded. The camper place wants me to get the 1200 weight distribution bars cause it will be weeks before they can get the 1000 in. So is going to 1200 bars with a hitch weight 750? Thanks for any help on this. Going in the am to pick it up. Oh TV is 17 250 diesel. Thanks for ANY help

St4 07-03-2020 08:40 AM

I wud think ur tongue weight wen all is said and done will be more than 750, probably closer to 800 or 850. With that being said I think that u wud b ok with 1200, especially having a 3/4 ton tow vehicle.


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