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Astontibs 07-29-2020 08:13 AM

Kwikee Level Best 3000 Jack Issues
 
Bottom Line Up Front (BLUF)
Looking for advice on:
Rebuilding jack cylinders
Bleeding jack cylinders (EDIT: I have received the procedure)
Below is the long story.

34' 2007 Itasca Sunovo with a Kwikee Level best 3000 leveling system. The jacks are hydraulic up and hydraulic down Lippert part number 359278.
I have a few issues, some existing some brand new. I had an issue with the Jacks Down light coming on while driving which I believe is from a leaking right rear cylinder. The right rear cylinder has visible ATF on the foot pad.
So this prompts my first question, I know I either need to replace or rebuild the cylinder. I got prices from $1000-$1300 to buy a cylinder but I was hoping to rebuild it. Lippert says it cannot be rebuilt. Has anyone ever had success rebuilding these or getting them rebuilt?
The next issue which is new. After verifying I had enough fluid in the reservoir, I fully extended and retracted all the jacks to try to purge any air that may be exasperating the jacks dropping problem. After doing that I was going to try to reset the auto level sensor by leveling the coach and resetting the sensor. What I found is now I can't get the right rear jack to touch the ground when I try to raise the right side of the coach. It will travel to the ground if i try to raise the rear of the coach. Either way, I could't get the jacks to raise the right side of the coach. Thinking maybe I somehow got air in the right rear, I am looking for a way to bleed the right rear jack. I am also looking for any insight or ideas why the system is acting weird now.

RPagington 08-02-2020 07:24 AM

Alan, did you ever find out the problem? I am having the same issue but left front on a 2006 Sightseer. I took it in to a repair shop and they tell me it needs a new pump assembly to the tune of $2800 for the part and $3800 total for the repair. I declined and have been looking for a used one but no luck so far.

onebrit 08-02-2020 07:37 PM

Onebrit
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Astontibs (Post 5371359)
Bottom Line Up Front (BLUF)
Looking for advice on:
Rebuilding jack cylinders
Bleeding jack cylinders (EDIT: I have received the procedure)
Below is the long story.

34' 2007 Itasca Sunovo with a Kwikee Level best 3000 leveling system. The jacks are hydraulic up and hydraulic down Lippert part number 359278.
I have a few issues, some existing some brand new. I had an issue with the Jacks Down light coming on while driving which I believe is from a leaking right rear cylinder. The right rear cylinder has visible ATF on the foot pad.
So this prompts my first question, I know I either need to replace or rebuild the cylinder. I got prices from $1000-$1300 to buy a cylinder but I was hoping to rebuild it. Lippert says it cannot be rebuilt. Has anyone ever had success rebuilding these or getting them rebuilt?
The next issue which is new. After verifying I had enough fluid in the reservoir, I fully extended and retracted all the jacks to try to purge any air that may be exasperating the jacks dropping problem. After doing that I was going to try to reset the auto level sensor by leveling the coach and resetting the sensor. What I found is now I can't get the right rear jack to touch the ground when I try to raise the right side of the coach. It will travel to the ground if i try to raise the rear of the coach. Either way, I could't get the jacks to raise the right side of the coach. Thinking maybe I somehow got air in the right rear, I am looking for a way to bleed the right rear jack. I am also looking for any insight or ideas why the system is acting weird now.

Alan
I have a 2007 Winnebago that has had that alarm issue from new, I am a service tech of many years and found no leaking at any of my jacks however I'm a little crazy and decided to attach a Velcro's pad on the jacks up button so I can feel for that button and push while driving and all has been fine up to now. Mine usually does it when I hit a heavy pot hole or something, even when I've checked my jacks once the alarm goes off it has barely moved from its fully up position so I'm not to worried about it on my coach. But would definitely suggest you check out fully as it sounds like your doing I don't have any levelling issues just that occasional alarm.
Good Luck
Onebrit

winno 08-03-2020 05:47 AM

Have replace all 4 levelers this past year. There is 4 bolts that mounts then to the frame, plus the switch wiring that will need to be unplug at the top of the leveler, when you get it down un screw switch from top remove the HYD fittings and remove foot pad install all on new leveler. I received them from the Winnebago itself they were around $800.00 ea. I did see were someone cut the top off and replaced the o rings on the piston then had to have it weld up, heat is not good on o rings.

Astontibs 08-04-2020 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RPagington (Post 5377337)
Alan, did you ever find out the problem? I am having the same issue but left front on a 2006 Sightseer. I took it in to a repair shop and they tell me it needs a new pump assembly to the tune of $2800 for the part and $3800 total for the repair. I declined and have been looking for a used one but no luck so far.

I spoke with Lippert Technologies and we agreed that it sounds like debris in the system causing the valves to hang up. I plan to perform a flush and fill of the hydraulic system, but I will also be removing each valve, inspecting it and cleaning it up. I hope this resolves the problem. my local RV shop said they could do the flush and fill for about $500 but I don't know if that would include removing the valves. I will let everyone know how that goes for me.

In your case, will any of the jacks lift up the coach? If they do, you can rule out the pump as the problem.

Astontibs 08-10-2020 05:49 PM

Well I did the flush and fill last Saturday. I removed each cartridge valve and inspected and cleaned them. On two of the valves there was so much debris that the screen on the valve was deformed, probably from the hydraulic fluid trying to get through and pressure build up. Once i saw the debris, which was metallic, I knew i may be in trouble. Well I put everything back together, poured in new fluid and now the jacks won't lift the coach and they struggle to go back to the retracted position. I have to believe now that the pump destroyed itself and won't make pressure anymore. I have found used units for $2000 and I can get a new one from Lippert for about $2600 (with a 10% discount they have going right now). I was ready to buy the new one when I called a hydraulic shop about flushing my hoses so I can get rid of all the debris. While we were talking about that I asked him if had ever rebuilt a pump from an RV leveling system and he said they are probably very similar to the typical pumps he works on. Well I am going to remove the unit after this weekends camping trip and give it a shot. It has to be a lot cheaper than $2600.

RPagington 08-10-2020 06:03 PM

Thank you for the reply, I replaced one of the valves hoping that would fix it but no change. Looking at the 2 valves I removed, the screens are covered in black debris so I am guessing the whole system is full of it. It looks like either a seal on one of the jacks is coming apart, I do have a leaking jack or the lines are deteriorating. At this point I think it would be easier just to remove the whole system and put a new system in. That would be cheaper than replacing one of the jacks and the pump assembly. Guess I should not complain I did get 14 years out of the system.

Ralph

ronmanfredi 08-30-2020 01:40 AM

Cylinder Rebuild
 
I found this company that will rebuild your cylinders for $350 each plus shipping. They are an OEM manufacturer of most cylinders including the welded type. Worked great on my 2004 Itasca. https://www.customcylindersintinc.com/

Dive in 09-05-2020 07:27 PM

X2 for Custom Cylinders, they re-built two of mine this summer for $375 each plus shipping both ways. Its pricey but still cheaper than buying new ones.

Astontibs 09-08-2020 08:51 AM

Thank you for the information on the cylinders.
Unfortunately, that is the least of my worries right now. I removed the pump/manifold unit from the motorhome 3 weeks ago and partially disassembled it to inspect everything. Finding nothing obviously wrong , i brought it to a local hydraulics shop. They disassembled the the pump and inspected the rest of the unit and found nothing wrong, in fact they stated that the hydraulics looked brand new inside. Then they bench tested it and found that the pump was generating 1850 psi per the manufacturers literature. I do have to state that they only checked the pump in the retract position. They did not shift the main directional valve to check the extend pressure. Either way, this does show that the pump is capable of making full pressure with no flow.
This past weekend, I flushed all of the hoses going to the jacks with compressed air. Then I used the compressed air to verify that all the jacks moved up and down easily using the air. This also helped flush the rest of the fluid out of the jacks so I knew I was working with all new fluid now. Next I reinstalled the pump/manifold unit and retested it. I found that the jacks all extended and retracted the way they are supposed to, until they hit the ground. When the fronts hit the ground, the pump changes pitch slightly but the RV does not lift. When the rears hit the ground the pump changes pitch and the rear lifts very slowly.
To verify it wasn't the jacks leaking internally, I lifted the RV using a hydraulic bottle jack and then extended the jacks until they hit the ground. Then, I released the hydraulic bottle jack and the jacks held the RV up. I did this in both the front and the back and every jack help up just fine.
My theory now is that the directional control valve is leaking internally and not allowing the pump to build full pressure in the extend position. It is making enough pressure to lift the rear very slowly but not the front. I did pull the directional control valve and flushed it with compressed air and verified that the spool does shift with the solenoid and reinstalled it with the same symptoms.
My next step is to take it back to the hydraulic shop and have them see how much pressure I am getting in extend position. I am hoping it is just a failing O-ring but we shall see.

Astontibs 09-10-2020 12:22 PM

PSA for others who have the Kwikee Level Best 3000 system. The solenoid operated control valves on the pump manifold are Deltrol Hydraulics parts. I tracked down the part number for the 4 way 2 position control valve and it is DSV-080-4CON-C14 and I purchased one for $42.38 with shipping from a local Deltrol distributor.

onebrit 09-15-2020 05:53 PM

Alan
Sure sounds like you have all bases covered at this point, hope the replacement solenoid valve solves your problem. I'm sure a lot of people including myself will be interested to know if that 4 way valve solves the problem.
Good Luck
Onebrit

Astontibs 09-21-2020 01:08 PM

Good news bad news:
Bad news: the directional control valve did not fix the problem
Good news: I figured out what it is and it all makes sense now.

The internal seals in my right front jack failed. That explains the debris in the system when this whole mess started. I finally figured it out whne I realized I could rasie the rear of the RV and I could raise the left side of the RV but I couldn't raise the front or the right side. TO make absolutely sure, I used my hydraulic bottle jack to raise the right front and dropped that jack. I let the bottle jack go and the front of the RV stayed in the air because the valves in the manifold were keeping the fluid from escaping. Then when I tried to raise the front, the front actually dropped. This tells me that the fluid that is trying raise the RV is escaping through the blown internal seals in the right front jack and going right back to the tank. It has been a long road troubleshooting this issue, but I am certain this is the case. I thank the earlier posters who turned me on to Custom Cylinders Inc. I just spoke with them and they said they could rebuild the jack for about $300. I have one camping trip left for the season and then I will pull that jack and ship it to them for repair.

DryCreek 01-30-2021 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Astontibs (Post 5449676)
Good news bad news:
I thank the earlier posters who turned me on to Custom Cylinders Inc. I just spoke with them and they said they could rebuild the jack for about $300. I have one camping trip left for the season and then I will pull that jack and ship it to them for repair.

Did you have an update for the Custom Cylinders rebuild yet?

All four of ours are spewing fluid like crazy now that it's cooled off.

What a mess.

tumbeiro 01-30-2021 07:26 PM

I just re-installed my cylinders today after having them rebuilt last week. I was charged 365 per cylinder (total $1460) by a local hydraulic shop. I had to call around a bit before I found a shop that sounded like they understood what they were taking on. The reason this rebuild gets as costly is due to the cylinders having welded caps.

I purchased my coach (barely)used and noticed at least two of the cylinders were leaking so I figured better to get them all done at once.

I'm glad I found this thread though. While all the jacks are going up and down now, I need to learn the system operation should better and find parts if necessary.

I have a 2008 Itasca Latitude 39' Cummins

Astontibs 02-01-2021 07:01 AM

Yes I do have an update. I apologize for not updating this thread. Custom cylinders rebuilt the jack and it fixed the problem. Unfortunately, during my optest, I believe I have another cylinder failing now. I didn't feel like dealing with it, so when I open up for the spring I will check them all again. I think I will buy one new cylinder and if I need to replace one, put the new one in and send the failed one back to Custom Cylinders for a rebuild so I always have one good jack ready to go. Eventually when I decide to go with another RV, I should be able to see the good one no problem.

Gotlost33 02-18-2021 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tumbeiro (Post 5616751)
I just re-installed my cylinders today after having them rebuilt last week. I was charged 365 per cylinder (total $1460) by a local hydraulic shop. I had to call around a bit before I found a shop that sounded like they understood what they were taking on. The reason this rebuild gets as costly is due to the cylinders having welded caps.

I purchased my coach (barely)used and noticed at least two of the cylinders were leaking so I figured better to get them all done at once.

I'm glad I found this thread though. While all the jacks are going up and down now, I need to learn the system operation should better and find parts if necessary.

I have a 2008 Itasca Latitude 39' Cummins

Could you share the shop that did your rebuild?

We are in SW FL and have several Level Best 3000 jacks that have started leaking recently and hoping to rebuild. Headed through KY this summer (hopefully) so considering a stop at Custom Cylinders to rebuild, but another shop that has rebuilt successfully would be good to know.

Thanks

tumbeiro 02-18-2021 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gotlost33 (Post 5641133)
Could you share the shop that did your rebuild?

We are in SW FL and have several Level Best 3000 jacks that have started leaking recently and hoping to rebuild. Headed through KY this summer (hopefully) so considering a stop at Custom Cylinders to rebuild, but another shop that has rebuilt successfully would be good to know.

Thanks

HMS Hydraulic Machine Service https://hydraulicmachineservice.com/ rebuilt them. I spoke with Nick at 954-699-6545. He was very friendly an upfront with the whole process. They took about 1 week and half to do the work.. Please keep us posted.

Astontibs 02-19-2021 06:08 AM

This is all good info. I am thinking we should ask for a sticky on this forum with a list of places willing and a able to rebuild these cylinders.

DryCreek 02-19-2021 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Astontibs (Post 5642281)
This is all good info. I am thinking we should ask for a sticky on this forum with a list of places willing and a able to rebuild these cylinders.

I agree.
Replacing those jacks is cost prohibitive.

Gotlost33 02-25-2021 09:49 AM

Appreciate the extra shop recommendation.

I don't see anything in the manual, but anything I should be aware of or other recommendations when removing these jacks to get them repaired or when reinstalling?

Will the system need to be bled when reconnected?

Mudfrog 02-25-2021 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gotlost33 (Post 5650028)
Appreciate the extra shop recommendation.

I don't see anything in the manual, but anything I should be aware of or other recommendations when removing these jacks to get them repaired or when reinstalling?

Will the system need to be bled when reconnected?

I had no problems replacing all 4 of mine myself. To keep from losing excess fluid, I made sure to cap the flared ends of the tubing that I disconnected from the jacks. After I reinstalled the new jacks, I checked the main reservoir to make sure was at the proper level. Cycling the jacks a time or two purged the small amount of air that got in.

Here's a link that'll help:

Kwikee Service Guide

Astontibs 02-26-2021 06:14 AM

I want to parrot everything Mudfrog said.
Capping the lines greatly minimizes air getting into the system. Make sure jacks are fully retracted when capping.
If you have multiple mounting holes, make sure you mark the correct holes. I installed mine one hole off the first time.
I recommend doing the job on blacktop or concrete and using a hydraulic floor jack to lower/lift the jack into position.
Once removed from the coach, an impact gun will be needed to remove the foot.
Remove as much extraneous fittings, electrical leads from the cylinder as possible to reduce weight and footprint (Shipping these cylinders is not cheap).
To ship, if you don't already have a shipping crate. Bolt the cylinder to some plywood and build a cage around the cylinder with wood that fits the box you have and prevents cylinder movement. Try to find a box with thick walls. I used one that was used to ship meat.

Gotlost33 02-26-2021 09:56 AM

Thanks for the extra details. As far as capping the hydraulic lines - is this a standard size or where did you obtain the appropriate size caps?

Mudfrog 02-26-2021 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gotlost33 (Post 5651432)
Thanks for the extra details. As far as capping the hydraulic lines - is this a standard size or where did you obtain the appropriate size caps?

I believe it is a standard fitting but I don't remember what size.

On mine, I ordered and had the new cylinders in hand when I replaced. Because I'm a cheapskate and I knew it wouldn't take long to get things back together (did one jack at a time), I plugged the upper and lower lines with sharpened pencils. Gave each a slight twist as I pushed it in and let friction hold it in place. I was careful to push it in straight and not break anything off inside the tubing.

tumbeiro 02-26-2021 10:45 PM

This was my experience. It may have been a little messy but I was just trying to ensure as much of the air was out of the system as well. Keep in mind, I had two different opinions from folks that work hydraulic systems. I went with the one that seemed more familiar to me.

Once i had everything mounted and back in place, I reconnected the hoses to "hand tight". I did this with the intent that if i have a full reservoir, cycling the jack up and down, the pump would push the air out of the lines then start to leak fluid once the air was out. Once i saw that all fittings had properly bled out all the air, i tightened all the hose fittings. next i checked the reservoir again and added fluid as needed. I then cycled the system up and down a few more times to ensure all the jacks went up and down. After a few runs, they were all pretty much in sync extending and retracting. lastly, i cleaned up the mess and extended all the jacks and allowed the coach to sit for a couple days just to ensure nothing was leaking with a full load of the coach. this worked for me.

The other opinion, which i decided not to go with, was to just put everything back to together and to cycle the system up and down allowing the air to bleed out on its own - always ensuring the reservoir was full. While this might have done the job and been less messy, i didn't feel as comfortable doing it.

I hope this helps.

The next thing i haven't had a chance to do, is set the level state of the system. from the manual's instructions, this doesn't seem to be a big to do. I'll get around to it soon enough

Dive in 02-27-2021 09:37 AM

I originally planned on capping the lines but never got around to finding the fittings. Instead I just taped a piece of rag over the opening to keep dirt out and pointed the end of the hose up and higher than the hose itself to minimize the amount of fluid that would run out. I had a cup handy when removing the hose from cylinder in case a lot came out but as I recall it wasn't that bad. For bleeding, the instructions I had said the system is "self bleeding" so just need to connect hoses, fill tank, and run it up and down several times. While doing this need to check and top off fluid each time while jacks in the up position.

Astontibs 03-01-2021 07:25 AM

If you buy the fittings, they are 3/8" 37 degree flare plugs. They cost about a dollar each.

DryCreek 03-05-2021 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Astontibs (Post 5655016)
If you buy the fittings, they are 3/8" 37 degree flare plugs. They cost about a dollar each.

Are you sure that they're not 1/4"?
They look smaller than 3/8" on my 2006 Winnebago Sightseer.
Tomorrow, the wife and I are going to pull one of them off. Next week my wife will run it into town and see if the local hydraulic shop can rebuild it. They say that if they can get the seals, they can rebuild it. But, they won't know until they get it apart.

DryCreek 03-08-2021 06:21 PM

OK, so time for our update.
While we were out taking care of business the other day, we happened to be passing through Cleburne Texas. On that route is a shop specializing in hydraulic components - Hundley Hydraulic. Way back when I had a very old tractor, I saw them quite frequently to have my lift and dump cylinder rebuilt as they each failed. So, we dropped in and explained what we had. The guy said that they probably could rebuild them, but they'd have to see them to be sure. So, the next day I set to removing one jack cylinder to send in for evaluation. My wife was assisting, so I suggested maybe remove both front ones since they were hemorrhaging the worst. Well, when it was all said and done, we had all four off and in the bed of the truck.

So, the wife drives them all the way in to Cleburne and the guy who unloaded them instantly recognized them. He said, oh, more motor home levelers. What company are you with? My wife laughed and said no company (she could have used our LLC ranch name though), just two old folks tired of leaky jack cylinders.
He showed my wife some that they had already finished rebuilding. My wife panicked when they quoted approximately $400 each, and she called me. I explained to her that the absolute cheapest I could find a single new cylinder for was $1,175, she suddenly thought four rebuilds wasn't so steep after all!

Will keep y'all updated as we go into the install mode.

Hey, does anyone know if you can drain the reservoir? I am seriously considering draining and replacing the fluid. I wonder if the PO may have used the incorrect fluid or introduced some other contaminant at some time. Why else would all four jack seals start leaking so profusely?

DryCreek 04-02-2021 08:13 AM

Rebuild complete, Install complete
 
Hundley Hydraulics was able to rebuild all four of the cylinders. One needed a new piston rod, they were able to take care of that too.

Total cost was $1,428. Installation went very well, taking us a little over 2 hours. The next step was to fill the reservoir as we cycled the jacks up and down to fill and vent the system. It took more fluid than I had provisioned for. Expect to use a gallon and a half if you drain the reservoir and refill it and all of the cylinders and lines.

Astontibs 04-20-2021 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DryCreek (Post 5661116)
Are you sure that they're not 1/4"?
They look smaller than 3/8" on my 2006 Winnebago Sightseer.
Tomorrow, the wife and I are going to pull one of them off. Next week my wife will run it into town and see if the local hydraulic shop can rebuild it. They say that if they can get the seals, they can rebuild it. But, they won't know until they get it apart.

I bought them in person at the local hydraulic shop so mine are 3/8". Dry Creek, glad to hear you got yours all worked out.
Update, I bought one new cylinder on EBay for $954 with shipping. I am just about ready to dewinterize my coach so I will probably be replacing the one I think is bad and getting the bad one rebuilt. I wish I had a hydraulic shop in driving distance as the shipping is a killer. SO far, I think we have identified three locations that rebuild cylinders. When I get a chance, I think I will start a thread just for rebuild shops so people have a ready source.

DryCreek 04-22-2021 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Astontibs (Post 5719833)
SO far, I think we have identified three locations that rebuild cylinders. When I get a chance, I think I will start a thread just for rebuild shops so people have a ready source.

That's a great idea.

I would certainly recommend the shop that did ours. They have never disappointed us in the past.

johnbell47 04-24-2021 03:08 PM

Mine are 1/4 inch flare, same as lots of air conditioning access ports. home Depot has caps and plugs, if you want to get fancy. I just taped mine up to keep the dirt out. Speaking of dirt, I fought with my jacks for two weeks after the previous owner rebuilt the cylinders and couldn't get the jacks to work, he thought bleeding or pump. The pump ran ok but I could not get the things to bleed and they barely went up and down and damn sure wouldn't lift the couch. After all of two weeks of fiddling, I found that the pick up screen in the reservoir was stopped up with junk. Cleaned it and now we work! You do have to take the pump off, and there are lots of lines and wires, so be sure to tag everything! I used key tags from Walmart. Not a piece of cake but sure was cheap.

Astontibs 04-25-2021 11:09 AM

I was wrong about the size, it is 1/4" sorry for the confusion.
Well good news bad news on my coach. I did verify that the left front jack was leaking internally. I replaced it with the new one that I bought and everything optested satisfactory. I went to look at both front jacks to make sure I had no leaks and I noticed a puddle of ATF on the right front jack. Thinking it was an old spill, I wiped everything dry and verified all the lines were tight. I then cycled the front jacks again and got a fresh puddle of ATF on the right front jack. It looked to be coming from the weld where the cylinder was repaired. I wiped everything dry again and pushed the button to stow the jacks. I ran over to the right front jack and kept my eye on the weld as the jack retracted. At the very end when the jack is fully retracted and right when the pressure spikes for a second prior to the pump shutting down I saw a drop of ATF come right through the weld. NOT HAPPY!! I have the Dover NASCAR race in 3 weeks and I want operating jacks. Needless to say the jack is sitting in a shipping box right now ready to call Custom Cylinders first thing in the morning to ship it back to them for repair. I certainly hope they will cover the shipping.

johnbell47 04-26-2021 10:53 AM

Hope you get that little weld spot fixed in time! I wanted to make sure everybody heard me when I said that MY PICK UP SCREEN WAS STOPPED UP IN THE RESOVOIR! Simple fix that took a bunch of time and worry to find!! Honestly, I think that Kwikee screwed this one up, the screen was stuffed all the way up on the pick up tube, so it could only draw oil from the very end of the screen. This is where the factory folded the screen over and spot welded it to close the end. That makes the end of the screen almost occluded anyway, It had two wire ties holding it on. I left about 1/2 inch of screen shy of the end of the tube, so there would be more screen area. You do have to pull the pump to get to one of the tank screws though. I left that one out this time, so maybe I won't have to pull the tank next time. :angel:

Dive in 04-26-2021 06:55 PM

Custom Cylinders re-built two of mine last summer and ironically I had a weld leak on one of them also. Mine was a very small leak and fortunately didn't leave any puddles of ATF. I obviously wasn't happy however and contacted them right away. They offered to fix it and ship back to me no charge but I had to pay for freight back to them. I decided to wait until winter to deal with it and now it doesn't leak for some reason?!

Dav L 04-27-2021 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winno (Post 5378944)
Have replace all 4 levelers this past year. There is 4 bolts that mounts then to the frame, plus the switch wiring that will need to be unplug at the top of the leveler, when you get it down un screw switch from top remove the HYD fittings and remove foot pad install all on new leveler. I received them from the Winnebago itself they were around $800.00 ea. I did see were someone cut the top off and replaced the o rings on the piston then had to have it weld up, heat is not good on o rings.

The piston is collapsed to the bottom before the top is welded. Then it's cooled. The oring never gets warm. Heck, it could be welded in a gallon of water.

onebrit 05-06-2021 06:49 PM

Onebrit
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Astontibs (Post 5449676)
Good news bad news:
Bad news: the directional control valve did not fix the problem
Good news: I figured out what it is and it all makes sense now.

The internal seals in my right front jack failed. That explains the debris in the system when this whole mess started. I finally figured it out whne I realized I could rasie the rear of the RV and I could raise the left side of the RV but I couldn't raise the front or the right side. TO make absolutely sure, I used my hydraulic bottle jack to raise the right front and dropped that jack. I let the bottle jack go and the front of the RV stayed in the air because the valves in the manifold were keeping the fluid from escaping. Then when I tried to raise the front, the front actually dropped. This tells me that the fluid that is trying raise the RV is escaping through the blown internal seals in the right front jack and going right back to the tank. It has been a long road troubleshooting this issue, but I am certain this is the case. I thank the earlier posters who turned me on to Custom Cylinders Inc. I just spoke with them and they said they could rebuild the jack for about $300. I have one camping trip left for the season and then I will pull that jack and ship it to them for repair.

Food for thought if an internal O'Ring/ seal fails the piston can drift just by allowing the fluid to transfer from one side to another with out any fluid going back to tank. This will happen when the bottle jack lifted the coach, the coach jack is extended and then bottle jack is lowered allowing full weight of coach to push the jack down to prove it is the internal piston seals blank off the return line with a cap and if the cylinder doesn't hold and drifts down you know the internal seals are bad.
And that's your problem solved.
Hope this helps
Onebrit :)

Astontibs 05-07-2021 06:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onebrit (Post 5741089)
Food for thought if an internal O'Ring/ seal fails the piston can drift just by allowing the fluid to transfer from one side to another with out any fluid going back to tank. This will happen when the bottle jack lifted the coach, the coach jack is extended and then bottle jack is lowered allowing full weight of coach to push the jack down to prove it is the internal piston seals blank off the return line with a cap and if the cylinder doesn't hold and drifts down you know the internal seals are bad.
And that's your problem solved.
Hope this helps
Onebrit :)

Onebrit,
Actually the two way valves in the manifold seal off the lines as good as any plug in the line would do. When I jacked it up manually and lowered the jack and then released the bottle jack, the bad cylinder didn't budge at all. If the valves in your manifold are leaking, you would ave bigger problems.

Astontibs 05-07-2021 06:21 AM

I got the cylinder back yesterday, installed it and for the first time in almost a year I have a fully functioning leveling system again. I will ship my spare to Custom Cylinders probably next week for repairs so I have a functioning cylinder at the ready should another one fail. This has been one helluva experience.

Gotlost33 08-04-2021 09:18 AM

Reporting back on Custom Cylinders here. We were actually passing pretty close through the Lexington area, so decided to just drop off the cylinders rather than deal with shipping. We had all 4 cylinders leaking and went ahead with doing all 4 at once.

Floor jack and a second set of hands was a big help getting the jacks off and back on, overall not nearly as bad as I expected. I thought we had made notes on everything during the removal to make the reconnect easier, but I didn't account for the connectors on the jacks (straight vs. 90-degree). The shop removed the connectors during the rebuild and repaint and gave them back in a ziplock. I didn't realize/plan for the different directionality and ended up having to swap a pair of elbows for straight connectors on the rear jacks after they were already bolted back in. Not too bad, but easier to do right beforehand.

Overall Custom Cylinders did a nice job. Dropped them off on the way north, and picked them up a week later while headed back south (not with MH). 2 months into a trip now with probably 15+ leveling cycles and jacks are running smooth with no leaks.


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