Aqua Hot AHE-100-04S "Low tank - Level Cutoff"
 

Greetings !
My Electronic Controller panel is lit "red" for the "Low tank - Level Cutoff".
Liquid levels in the heat tank and overflow are good. Manually resetting the electronic controller has not fixed the issue. No hot water for a couple days now. Looking at the service manual trying to troubleshoot. Any helpful advice?
Thanks.

I have the Owners', Shop/Service, and Parts manuals. Here are the manuals.

EDIT - the Shop manual is too large to upload here. If you want a copy give me your e-mail address (You can PM me) and I will send it to you. However I got it on-line (somewhere) so you may be able to find it yourself if you prefer.

Good luck

There is a float valve up near the top of tank. Order a new one if you've already added boiler fluid.

https://heatmyrv.com/product/ele-800-002-switch-float-brass-12vdc/

Being 2 wire i think you can just connect the wires to check it. Should be 12v to and from. I jump them at the board, it's easier. Double check me on it in the manual.

If you do not have shore power can you use your electric heater with generator for temporary heat.

https://www.rvtechmag.com/tech/38_aquahotsvc.php
Scroll down, jump 15 and 16. There's a picture of it

Wow, thanks for posting this link. :thumb: I'm keeping this for future use.

Tim

You can short the 2 wires together from the float switch to get it to work.

Thanks, all.
I jumped 15 and 16 as suggested, and it looks like I need a new switch float assembly.

You can change the float switch wet. A tee shirt stuffed under it should catch the fluid you loose. Just be fast.
You are fairly safe to run it with the jumper. As long as you know you have it full. I would check it everyday, would be one expensive deal if it went low on you.
Just until the part arrives of course.

Aqua Hot Float Switch
 

Hard nylon...much less $$ than others you will find. Around $15 when I got mine about 7 years ago. Use Teflon pipe dope hi-temp, not tape for a good seal. Be sure to orient it so it closes the circuit on low level of course.

Getting the old one out was a bear, and there is still a piece floating around somewhere, probably sunk to bottom of tank or it would have been an issue by now. :rolleyes:

https://www.galco.com/shop/RSF80-Cyn...itches?obs=yes

Dang Chuck ^^^ I tried to find a different switch but ended up buying the $150 one. If you hook a small vacuum cleaner at the radiator cap you will not loss any fluid when changing.

If jumpering the terminals is a way to bypass for temporary/testing purposes, wouldn't you orient the new switch to close the circuit when fluid is at proper level?

I believe that's correct.

Come on guys...7 years ago?? :facepalm: IRC It's a simple pivot switch like in the picture so it goes in so when it pivots down it breaks circuit. Think it was a N.C. (normally closed) position mount...that would be like jumpering. You can check it with an ohmeter up/down, it seems like if the fluid drops and the arm drops that was the way it worked.

Love my AQH but the leaky neck work around, this float thing, thermostats, in/out pex links, plus normal annual maint. Kind of answers the "what do you retired guys do all day"? Either learn to fix it or dump a bunch of dollars in a shop somewhere hoping you find a "tech" that can really fix it right the first time. :banghead:

Off to the new Girard motor project next. :eek:

7 years ago? What are you referring to? It takes a little time learning new systems. If you have something helpful please chime in.

Switch Wiring
 

Check posts #11 and #13

My response was to Rick about which way to orient the float lever. :thumb:

Of course if you spend $150 it just goes straight in.

“ Of course if you spend $150 it just goes straight in.” :D :D :D and they multiply