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-   -   Bounder: Turn Signal, Cruise Control, Dash A/C Not Working Fleetwood Bounder 1999 (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/turn-signal-cruise-control-dash-a-c-not-working-fleetwood-bounder-1999-a-510047.html)

theoldqueen 10-08-2020 03:15 PM

Turn Signal, Cruise Control, Dash A/C Not Working Fleetwood Bounder 1999
 
Hi Everyone!


We picked up a 1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34J on a Chevy / Workhorse chassis with a 7.4L 454 engine a few weeks back. Everything looked great and was working when we test drove it but on the drive back (PHX to LA) after pulling over for a break, the turn signals, cruise control, and dash a/c all stopped working.

The hazards still work so we were able to drive back using those and hand signals out the window but it was definitely a bit stressful!

First thing I checked were the fuses in the under dash compartment and everything worked. Then I tried swapping out the flasher and still no luck. Checked all the fuses in the BCC with a fuse tester and those all seemed to be working too.

Now I figure it must be the turn signal switch so I have pulled the steering wheel and disassembled the switch to clean the metal contacts but no luck. Tested the wires with a multimeter and see 12v coming in through two wires (one brown and one of the two black wires). Figured the switch was defective so went to NAPA and got one for a P30 without motorhome chassis because that's all they had. The wire harness was the same and the wire colors matched so I figured it would work. Got the new switch installed and still no luck. As I'm messing with I noticed that the hazards work but the speed is irregular (speeds up and down with some kind of pattern).


Have not had a chance to even dive into the cruise control and dash a/c because turn signal has been priority.


Currently at a loss right now because I cannot find any schematic or other information specific to the turn signals on this model. Is there anything that I have not checked yet? Anyone else with a bounder of this year that run into similar issues or have any schematics for the 99 bounder?


Any help would be greatly appreciated!


Thank you.

Skip426 10-09-2020 09:10 AM

1 Attachment(s)
A number of P chassis owners have had problems with the terminals on the ignition switch overheating due to the loads .
If your ignition switch is on the top of the steering column just inside the dash panel and operates by a long rod down the column from the ignition lock . You need to check the switch for burnt wiring .Picture below.

There was even a wiring package with a relay introduced to prevent the issue from happening again.

Sometimes the terminals will pass enough power to give a meter reading ; but not enough to light up a bulb ; so having both a meter and a 12 volt test light will help in many electrical situations.

theoldqueen 10-09-2020 03:29 PM

Thank you for the response Skip426! I dove under the dash to see if I could find it and am having some trouble. Will there be a wiring harness plugged into it or just individual cables? Really hoping this is the culprit!

Skip426 10-09-2020 03:39 PM

One big multiple connector , unless a previous owner had the connector melt down , and redid the wires as individual connections.

I know that the ignition switch is available at Auto Zone and possibly the connector , but if you want to look into the relay package , and don't feel confident wiring up your own, then Ultra RV Products might have them .
The common feed for all your non functioning items goes through the ignition, so I'm pretty sure you'll find your problem there. :thumb:

Sorry I don't have a picture of the ignition switch mounted on the column , I'll try and track one down.

Skip426 10-09-2020 03:51 PM

OK I found this .

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/how-t...ch-374135.html.

hope this helps:thumb:

theoldqueen 10-09-2020 03:56 PM

Wow that is very helpful! Had no idea the common feed came from the ignition switch. Thank you so much for finding that extra thread I will post updates once I make some progress!

theoldqueen 10-09-2020 11:17 PM

After removing some carpet to detach the plate holding up the steering column, I was able to drop it down enough to remove the ignition switch. It is definitely burnt! Looks almost like there was a short in the harness itself. Currently looking for where I can pick up the part and will be installing over the next few days!

Skip426 10-10-2020 12:32 AM

1 Attachment(s)
The part isn't hard to find , my 84 Plymouth Reliant used a Saginaw steering column with that switch .
The new switch will come with a lock bar , that holds the switch in the ignition " off " position during installation ( prior to the wiring hook up).
So ignition key out , insert the activation rod ( sometimes the switch has to be twisted 90 degrees to the rod to get it fully seated) then mount with screws and remove the lock and attach the wiring connector .

BUT , if the connector is burnt due to the system loads , then without installing a relay to move the load out of the ignition switch , the new switch will melt down too.

I thought I'd seen P/Ns for the switch , I'll see if I can track those down.

theoldqueen 10-10-2020 12:50 AM

Yes my connector burnt out as well! I found the switch at autozone and the connectors at oreilly's.


Ignition Switch: ACDelco Ignition Switch Part # D1405B


Connectors: Standard Ignition 5, 4 Terminal Ignition Switch Connector Part #S602


They look the same so I'm assuming these will fit. Will update once I get them tomorrow.


Looks like I might as well install the relay to keep this from happening again. Do you know of any other ways to reduce load on the switch when starting? I can power off my backup camera but that's all I can really think of.

Skip426 10-10-2020 11:05 AM

As mentioned in the link , about the ignition switch failure , the dash A/C fan and compressor are the big loads on the circuit , by installing the relay to feed the circuit and activating the relay from the ignition switch , you'll reduce the load through the terminals; from the dash A/C ; on the switch from approx 15 amps to less than 1.
If sourcing your own relay , you'll want a constant duty relay , with a rating of 30 amps ( or more ).:thumb:

theoldqueen 10-10-2020 12:36 PM

Yes my connector burnt out as well! I found the switch at autozone and the connectors at oreilly's.


Ignition Switch: ACDelco Ignition Switch Part # D1405B


Connectors: Standard Ignition 5, 4 Terminal Ignition Switch Connector Part #S602


They look the same so I'm assuming these will fit. Will update once I get them tomorrow.


Looks like I might as well install the relay to keep this from happening again. Do you know of any other ways to reduce load on the switch when starting? I can power off my backup camera but that's all I can really think of.

Skip426 10-10-2020 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theoldqueen (Post 5475301)


Looks like I might as well install the relay to keep this from happening again. Do you know of any other ways to reduce load on the switch when starting? I can power off my backup camera but that's all I can really think of.

The actual loads at start up , aren't really the issue , it's the long term heat produced in the switch and wiring connectors , from the dash fan and A/C use for hours of driving time , that do the damage.
If memory serves , in the link on switch replacement , someone documented the A/C blower motor draw at over 15 amps on high. I know that the dash A/C system in my coach has a 25 amp circuit breaker on the relay power supply .


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