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-   -   First time 5th wheel owner need advice on roofing repairs (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f44/first-time-5th-wheel-owner-need-advice-on-roofing-repairs-535483.html)

Azsnakelover 05-05-2021 03:28 AM

First time 5th wheel owner need advice on roofing repairs
 
4 Attachment(s)
I am a teenage girl that just bought a 5th wheel to live in full time. With the economy how it is, what else can you do right now? The roof on it is in pretty good shape, no leaks as far as I can tell, but I want to make it as secure as possible for longevities sake. I got a few pictures just to give an idea of what I'm working with. What I currently plan to get is etrnabond roof seal- both 6 and 4 inch 50 foot rolls, lap sealant, and rubber roof coating. Am I good to go on buying that? Any recommendations for ad on's/ what else to do to make sure my roof is good? I also am getting a new fabric for the awning over the slide out. What would you recommend using to replace the skylight? It is super flimsy and I want something more sturdy. You can see it in the background of the photos. It is a 29ft 1994 Alpenlite DL. I'm working on redoing the water damaged floors currently, then I need to do the roof, replace the fridge and toliet, and paint. Then I'll be set! I'd appreciate any advice for a first time 5th wheel owner. Thanks!

Xmcdog 05-05-2021 04:32 AM

:welcome:
Welcome aboard.
That is quite a project you are taking on. Wish you all the best.

I can't help you with the roof but I'm sure someone here can.
I'm doing some fixing up on my fiver and my biggest issue is figuring out how they installed some of the cabinets.

Anyway glad to have you with us and I do agree with the housing situation.

Good luck

TXiceman 05-05-2021 08:14 AM

The caulk and sealant on roof does not look good. What I can see of the roof material, it does not look good.

As a minimum, I would clean all the old caulk off and reseal all of the seams. You might try a roof coating like Henry Tropicool on the roof.

You mentioned water damaged flooring. Have you identified the source of the water leak and made sure it is stopped to prevent additional damage.

What year is your 5er? The roof might be at the end of it's life.

Ken

bddadles 05-05-2021 09:57 AM

I would start with a good scrub job on the roof. I use a stiff brush and Dawn and lots of rinsing. That will remove a lot of the black. A coating was mentioned and that will extend your roof life for now. After cleaning, inspect all your chalk joints. Do not use silicone on the roof. Around the vents you need self leveling caulk. Be generous when applying. This is only for use on horizontal surfaces not vertical.


Someone mentioned finding the source of the water that damaged the floor. That is very high on the list.



You mentioned Eterna bond tape. That is used frequently to repair joints and small holes. I have a 6" roll and it has been enough to last several years.



The awning topper is not a high priority item. In fact I don't have any on my 5er and I have been full timing for 11 years. Had one on another rig and I absolutely hated it. When the wind would blow it would move up and down and sound like it was breathing.


You did not mention if the rig was going to move or just sit in one place. Moving presents another list of things to be checked out.


You also did not mention where you are located. You never know if someone is close to you to offer on site advice. Good luck.

rrsutherland 05-05-2021 01:20 PM

Azsnakelover... looking at the Mesquite and Saguaros in the background and the condition of the sealant on the roof the heat and sun has deeply cracked the sealant and it needs removed and the surface under it cleaned then replace with self leveling sealant then your roof coat on top of that. Shortcuts are possible if this is a very temporary living situation but not if you're expecting this to last a few years. bddadles and others here have some very good advice. I would be very suspicious of floor water damage as water tends to flow down not up. Meaning, water causing the damage very probably came from the roof and down the inside of the walls to the floor. Window leaks would be the next likely culprit. Really wish to extend a hearty welcome aboard and best of luck in you're projects!:thumb:

xc-mark 05-05-2021 03:05 PM

I would say the entire roof is in need of getting a coating to re-seal the flat surface and a fresh coat of self leveling sealer around every opening. If the sky light is in good condition I would just re- seal around it. If your concern is that you can see thru the dome and want more privacy that is a easy fix. you can find a new dome at RV upgrades . com . Typically there is a inside garnish that is a 2nd bubble and trims the inside and a bubble on the roof. I have put two coats of clear bubble ( the stuff with 1/2" air pillows ) rap that is a small amount of sticky adhesive that barely will stick to itself , Staples had it at there local store and online. I used clear packing tape to hold it tight to the inside garnish out of the view . this does two things you can still let light com thru but you cant see thru it and it also helps with heat loss and bright sun making the bath room hot in the middle of the day.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/searc...arch=skylights

For roof sealer , trailer life magazine did a DIY back in 2020 . They had good a review on using crazy seal. This is a 100% a easy roll on coating system. Maybe a few days prep that you need to do for any roof coating and a one day first coat and one night cure time if you elect to do a 2nd coat.

https://crazyseal.com/fifth-wheels/

Azsnakelover 05-05-2021 04:51 PM

I do know the source of the water damage. One source is the sink, another is a spot under the slide out that me and my dad are a bit confused about the source of, but pretty sure water just got trapped and sat. The slide out wasn't moved for 4 years before I got the 5th wheel. It is going to be in one spot, lived in full time. The saguaros are a dead giveaway, but I'm in Arizona. The trailer was in a colder part of az for the last few years.

Azsnakelover 05-05-2021 04:54 PM

I also already have self leveling sealant and roof coating ready. The plan has been to clean up the roof, get rid of all the old caulking, and reseal every opening. Then the etrnabond over the entire perimeter, and some of the seals, plus the rubber roof coating. From the comments, it sounds like i will be set with that. Thank you everyone.

rrsutherland 05-05-2021 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azsnakelover (Post 5739538)
I also already have self leveling sealant and roof coating ready. The plan has been to clean up the roof, get rid of all the old caulking, and reseal every opening. Then the etrnabond over the entire perimeter, and some of the seals, plus the rubber roof coating. From the comments, it sounds like i will be set with that. Thank you everyone.

Good job! Sounds like you've got a great plan. I also have to do a roof coating and have researched several options and watched tons of youtube vids on the subject. I have an EPDM roof and have settled on RV Roof Magic for my coating mostly because it doesn't require a "proprietary" prep application like Dicor and it says it will achieve proper thickness in one coat vs 2 or 3 for the Dicor. Let us know what you choose and follow up pics would be great! Oh! Don't forget about your screw channel inserts! :thumb:

sam-3 05-05-2021 10:06 PM

Fifth wheel
 
You need to do your roof first. Your plan for repairs sounds good. Glad your dad is helping with repairs. Best of luck with your RV adventures.

Azsnakelover 05-05-2021 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sam-3 (Post 5739888)
You need to do your roof first. Your plan for repairs sounds good. Glad your dad is helping with repairs. Best of luck with your RV adventures.

My roof is high priority but I was most concerned with the disgusting rotted wood and getting that out of it asap. Buying stuff for the roof tonight. (: And yes, my dad has the knowledge, I'm putting in all the psychical labor and research for the stuff he doesn't know.

rarebear.nm 05-05-2021 11:08 PM

Lots of good advice above. When applying new sealants of any kind, make sure you get ALL of the old, flaking, peeling, dirty substrate clean first. Otherwise your repairs will have no way to bond properly for a water tight seal. I've seen older rigs with layers upon layers of caulking and it still leaked.

You'll do fine and are off to a good start.

TRNewsom 05-06-2021 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azsnakelover (Post 5739538)
I also already have self leveling sealant and roof coating ready. The plan has been to clean up the roof, get rid of all the old caulking, and reseal every opening. Then the etrnabond over the entire perimeter, and some of the seals, plus the rubber roof coating. From the comments, it sounds like i will be set with that. Thank you everyone.

I just went through this process on a roof that was in similar shape. The rubber roof was pretty much toast. I applied the rubber coating ( used the Dicor system), used Eternabond on the entire perimeter and over the edges so that it also went over the screw cover trim. Then the self leveling caulk around the vents and such. Been a year and all is holding up well. When working with the tape, I found it was easier to do it in about 4 ft sections and just overlap the ends about a half inch. If you try to work with too much length, itís easy to let it stick to itself or somewhere you donít want it and it will not let go.

rrsutherland 05-06-2021 09:04 AM

Hey AZ! forgot to mention...check out posts by Murphcrud in this forum. Some good advice for novice RV roofers there. Have a great day!:)

mtofell 05-06-2021 12:23 PM

Yeah, definitely clean, clean, clean and remove all the old caulking. I've had better luck over the years with RV roof sealant rather than tape but it's just a personal decision. I've had different levels of success with different products depending on roof type and severity of dirt/mold/damage. Simple Green is generally good but be sure to wash away any residue of that prior to sealing. I've done a 3-step process of Simple Green, then Windex to clean away the SG then water to wash away the Windex (letting it dry fully before applying sealant). I'm mainly talking about the seams and edges. As some others have said the roof itself looks pretty rough but without seeing it up close it's tough to tell.

John Boy 05-06-2021 02:08 PM

Use the Eternabond on the vents and skylights if you take them out to clean or replace. Search online for the replacement skylight. I got mine from the dealer and they got it from some cheap supplier. There are places that make any dimensions you want.
Enjoy the heat and the snakes. I left Tucson two weeks ago for cooler weather.
If you need it, I can probably find the custom skylight company. Somewhere near Denver.
Good Luck!
Quote:

Originally Posted by Azsnakelover (Post 5739538)
I also already have self leveling sealant and roof coating ready. The plan has been to clean up the roof, get rid of all the old caulking, and reseal every opening. Then the etrnabond over the entire perimeter, and some of the seals, plus the rubber roof coating. From the comments, it sounds like i will be set with that. Thank you everyone.


cavie 05-06-2021 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TXiceman (Post 5738901)
The caulk and sealant on roof does not look good. What I can see of the roof material, it does not look good.

As a minimum, I would clean all the old caulk off and reseal all of the seams. You might try a roof coating like Henry Tropicool on the roof.

You mentioned water damaged flooring. Have you identified the source of the water leak and made sure it is stopped to prevent additional damage.

What year is your 5er? The roof might be at the end of it's life.

Ken

OP stated 29ft 1994 Alpenlite DL:thumb:

Azsnakelover 05-08-2021 03:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRNewsom (Post 5740083)
I just went through this process on a roof that was in similar shape. The rubber roof was pretty much toast. I applied the rubber coating ( used the Dicor system), used Eternabond on the entire perimeter and over the edges so that it also went over the screw cover trim. Then the self leveling caulk around the vents and such. Been a year and all is holding up well. When working with the tape, I found it was easier to do it in about 4 ft sections and just overlap the ends about a half inch. If you try to work with too much length, itís easy to let it stick to itself or somewhere you donít want it and it will not let go.

Pretty much exactly my plam, thanks!


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