Dometic RM2663 failed
We have a Dometic RM2663 3-Way frig in our Class C. It was installed in 2007.
After turning it onto AUTO for pre-trip cooling it failed to cool. At first I could toggle between GAS and DC, but would not light up for AC. After about 11 hours on GAS the frig had not cooled down at all. Yes shore power is on, inverter appears to be working fine. No tripped breakers, reset or fuses that I know of. The stove burners fire up normally, full propane tank, propane pressure is 11 water inches. At first there was no voltage on the 120v outlet the frig is connected to. Found out that outlet is connected with the service side of a GFCI outlet in the kitchen that was tripped. Reset that and had 120 v at the frig outlet. All 120 volt outlets are working correctly both on shore power and inverter circuits. Now when on AUTO the AC option lights up as expected.
I was surprised that lack of AC power prevented the unit from working on GAS. Not totally sure that it works right now on GAS. Still giving it a little more time to cool down.
What are other experiences that may be helpful in this case?
Lack of AC power should have no impact to the frig operating on gas/propane.
However , it does require 12v power to function.
What is the condition of your house battery bank ?
Low 12v voltage could cause the issue.
Let us know what you find.
DC is at 13.0 volts. This RV stays connected to shore power 24/7 while in storage at home. Thus that reading is on the converter.
The frig is working and coming down to target temp nicely. The only thing I did was reset that 120 volt GFCI in the kitchen outlet. That outlet is on the inverter. I would have preferred to have had the frig AC directly on shore power. Already have 12v DC option in the frig if I want to run it off the batteries. I really do not see a need for both the DC and AC to frig being powered via 12 volts.
So anyone care to explain why I need 120 volt for any of the power options work, this includes the propane? The controller board should be powered via 12 volts not 120v. Maybe not on this particular model, Dometic RM2663, 2007 era.
Maybe someday if I'm looking for a project I'll switch that around.
Just reread some of the manuals, why would anyone do that?, it appears that the DC option is designed to hold or maintain an already cold frig. Below is a quote from one of the manuals.
"note: the dc mode is a holding mode not a full cool-ing mode. dc should be used once the unit is cooleddown and constant supply of dc available (drivingdown the road)."
Therefor, if you want to operate off shore power and not off propane you would want 120V power provided by the batteries, the inverter.
AC Element---that is 120VAC from shore/generator (inverter if no shore and large enough battery bank) and needs 12VDC power to function (circuit board/temp sensing/thermostat/trigger the AC Relay)
5A Glass Fuse for AC circuit ----325W/2.7A AC Element
Has NOTHING to do with the GAS circuit...that is all 12VDC and propane
3A Auto Blade Fuse for DC circuits ---
DC Element ....12VDC power from batteries. NOT intended to be used for initial cooling or when boondocking
Small element wattage and large DC amp draw
Intended use is when in transit to maintain cold fridge
35A DC Fuse-----215W/18A DC Element
Manual for Americana Series
Thanks for replies. In the end after resetting the gfci breaker for the 120v side I found a dirty igniter and burner tube. Got them cleaned and all works I think. A few days will prove it out.
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