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Wnevels 07-22-2021 05:03 PM

We are on the road this month so Ive only had 30 amps most of the time. I just set my inverter to help out if it sees over 25 amps so far I have t overloaded any of the campground electrical boxes and we have been running both acs at 73 degrees.

wolfe10 07-22-2021 05:10 PM

I will repeat a couple of "clarifications":


50 amp RV power is TWO 50 amp hots @120 VAC (L1 and L2), so, 2 times 6000 watts= 12,000 watts. Ya, "RV math". Actually no different than a 50 amp stove connection in a sticks and bricks home.


There is NO time limit on HOW LONG you can run a 50 amp coach on 30 amp connection. Only issue is how much you can run at the same time.


Said another way, you can run basics plus one roof A/C forever on a 30 amp connection.


Other caveat is to watch VOLTAGE as 30 amp connections tend to be in older CG's that may have used smaller gauge wire and where connections may be more worn.

amosnandy 07-22-2021 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GuyV (Post 5832813)
As a "new" class A coach owner, is it possible to run a small class A with the 50 amp power cord connected to a 30 amp service for any length of time? If not what would be the main problems??

Thanks for your help with this.

I spend 6 months each winter in Mexico with only 30 amp power. I did have some issues with my HR gasser. No EMS to shut stuff down. Had a 20 amp breaker for one of my AC units fail. But generally, yes, just remember you cannot pull more than 30 amps. Many a trip to the trailer park breaker box to reset the 30 amp breaker.

Biggest issue we have in Mexico is voltage. It fluctuates from 106 to 139. To correct this we use a self regulating 4000 watt transformer. It goes in the 30 amp line. It holds a pretty steady 120 volts. It goes into the 30 amp line from the 30 amp plug. About 2' square and heavy as hell. They use them all over Mexico and I have never been able to find one in the US. I can put a VOM in the 30 amp plug and see 139 volts. Plug the transformer in and the output is 120. Same when it's down to 106. 120 out from the transformer. What changes when the voltage changes is the amount of watts you can draw. 30 amp at 106 is a lot different than 30 amps at 139.

I would highly recommend you get a surge protector that reads voltage, load and the correct wiring.

Biggest thing if you are going to be hooked to a 30 amp circuit is make sure all your plugs are clean and shiny. Make sure the 30 amp dogbone fits tightly into the outlet. And at the first sign of any discoloration, burn marks, melting of the plugs is toss the dogbone and by a new one.

We have 36 of us in the trailer park, and most are 50 amp units running on 30 amps.

mitchoe 07-22-2021 06:59 PM

I do it all the time. Only one time had a problem, the 30 to 50 adapter overheated, but it was faulty wiring in the pedestal and i caught it when I noticed the discoloration on the adapter. When Im connected to 30A I use a 30A surge protector also. Only problem I have is not being able to use as much stuff, like the second AC or the microwave and AC at the same time.

gwb2020 07-22-2021 07:05 PM

I do run my Rig on 20amps at times, when there is not a higher connection available (like visiting friends) and also 30amps when that is the only connection available at the RV Park.. These same issues will occur with either service:
1. Can only run 1 air conditioner.
2. Cannot run the inverter (for charging the house batteries) (max 12amps), refrigerator (max 3 amps), microwave (max 8amps) and A/C (max 15amps) at the same time.
3. Watch your power distribution panel and check how much each component uses. Add it up and keep the total usage under 30 amps.
4. Remember, the inverter will kick on randomly when the House batteries discharge to a set level. To stop this from accidentally overloading your system if you are already using the A/C and Microwave or even the toaster, turn off the inverter battery charge until you are finished using the other appliances.
5. Be sure to set your incoming power to 30 amps and your power distribution setting to 30amps. Neglecting the first can cause the RV to attempt to draw more than the 30 amps available and pop the breaker at the source. Neglecting the second can cause random cut offs (like A/C) and be a pain to start up correctly.
The intelligent distribution panel is only as smart as the data it has to operate with.

Of course, your power distribution panel can also choose where to distribute the power, but it chooses based on its priorities, which may not be the same as yours. Also, if it cuts off the A/C compressor it may not let it turn back on until an extended time period after the power requirements drop below 30 amps.

Solo_RV_Guy 07-22-2021 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolfe10 (Post 5842413)
I will repeat a couple of "clarifications":


50 amp RV power is TWO 50 amp hots @120 VAC (L1 and L2), so, 2 times 6000 watts= 12,000 watts. Ya, "RV math". Actually no different than a 50 amp stove connection in a sticks and bricks home.


If we're getting into semantics, it's a split phase 120/240v circuit. It's the center tapped transformer secondary that creates the split phase.


NO part of this circuit can exceed 50 amps (OCPD/breaker). Because each side of the center tap is out of polarity with the other, the neutral carries only current that represents any imbalance of loading in each Line; i.e. if Line 1 has a 40 amp load and Line 2 has a 15 amp load, the current on the neutral will be 25 amps.



But what this is NOT, by definition, is 2 50 amp circuits. That it can be used in this manner does not change what it is.


Now if you'll pardon me, Don Quixote and I have more windmills to joust.:cool:

sibe 07-22-2021 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Solo_RV_Guy (Post 5842606)
If we're getting into semantics, it's a split phase 120/240v circuit. It's the center tapped transformer secondary that creates the split phase.


NO part of this circuit can exceed 50 amps (OCPD/breaker). Because each side of the center tap is out of polarity with the other, the neutral carries only current that represents any imbalance of loading in each Line; i.e. if Line 1 has a 40 amp load and Line 2 has a 15 amp load, the current on the neutral will be 25 amps.



But what this is NOT, by definition, is 2 50 amp circuits. That it can be used in this manner does not change what it is.


Now if you'll pardon me, Don Quixote and I have more windmills to joust.:cool:

No but in a perfect world that RV can use 100Amps at 120 or 12000 watts of power.. and that Nuetral will be maxed at 50amps.. a tad warm maybe..

I have read pedestals on a 50A and had 240 between the legs.. actually it was 2 weeks ago at a event and we had a funky issue of poping a breaker,, It was in a MH, the owner had a 7500QD taken out and a10K QD put in.. He also added a secondary 50amp plug that would run back to his attached trailer to run an AC, his hot dog machine or whatever else he does,,

they bypassed the original load shed or did not interlock it proper.. basically one leg was way over drawing..
I flipped the legs as a temp fix and told him either AC or Hot dogs not both.. He was like I wanted a bigger genny they talked me out of it...
I said the genny is not even on... it is the way they wired this all up when you added that extra 50amp..
I said run the Genny for RV and we plug the trailer into the pedestil. or use another pedestil that you can reach ..

I have not talked to him.. I am sure I will get the story in August at next event..

Blah blah.. sorry for story..

arcaguy 07-22-2021 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sbrownstein (Post 5833001)
Perhaps...but only Richard Nixon would turn up the AC and start a fire in the fireplace in the White House.

You haven't met many politicians have you?

Fiesta48 07-22-2021 08:32 PM

My 41' DP has 3 A/C. They only pull 8 amps each. I've stayed many weeks on only 30A service but don't run all 3.
My internal service panel also won't let me pull but 30A.

NeilV 07-22-2021 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GuyV (Post 5832813)
As a "new" class A coach owner, is it possible to run a small class A with the 50 amp power cord connected to a 30 amp service for any length of time? If not what would be the main problems??

Thanks for your help with this.


A small class A even with 2 air conditioners will be just fine on 30 amps especially if it has a Power Management System. Mine is 35 feet long and I am only limited to 1 air conditioner when on a 20 amp service however when on a 30 amp service I leave everything on, even the electric hot water heater, and let the power management system deal with it. I have never felt the need to upgrade my coach from 30 to 50 amps since its never been a real problem.

Most campgrounds I frequent only have 30 amp sites and most coaches back in 2001 were by default 30 amp with 50 being optional.

Low voltage from poor utility companies distribution grids or deficient campground wiring is another matter though. I highly recommend a voltage correction device such as a Hughes AutoForner to protect from and correct that situation which will allow your Air Conditioners and all other electrical components in your coach to last much longer.

Donkey7679 07-23-2021 06:48 AM

I have had to run my 50amp service on 30amp on several occasions. The longest I have went was a two week stint at a state park when they had no available 50amp spots (busy time). I just had to monitor how many amps I was drawing at one time full well knowing I had to maintain 28 amps or below as a safety margin. In my RV I was able to run one AC, TV and my refrigerator at the same time with no issue. I could use my microwave no issue; however, I had to shutdown the AC to use the convection oven side. For the AC use I ran the front unit during the day and switched to the back unit at night when we slept. This kept me below 28 amps and I never really struggled with anything.

TXduo 07-23-2021 07:49 AM

One important point to make for a newbie is DO NOT try to plug into an older three wire home 30A dryer outlet (240V). Just saying because that has been attempted before with not so good results. The 30A campground 120V circuit is not the same (and plugs should not fit) as a 30A dryer outlet (240V). Just saying....

aschuller1 07-23-2021 10:27 AM

Yes
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by GuyV (Post 5832813)
As a "new" class A coach owner, is it possible to run a small class A with the 50 amp power cord connected to a 30 amp service for any length of time? If not what would be the main problems??

Thanks for your help with this.

Do it all of the time when at parks don't offer 50 AMPS. Dog leg adapter will work just fine. However, you may not be able to run your AC's. Do a test and see how many AMPS your AC's draw at start up.

Steve 716 07-23-2021 01:52 PM

Understand the limits of 30 amp service
 
My last coach was a gasser setup for 30 amp service. When I tried to run both ACs and anything else my internal breaker would flip. Sometimes one AC and a few other devices were enough to trip my breaker. There were times when I, like you, needed to convert a pedestal 50 amp plug to my 30 amp line. As long as you understand these limitations using a 30 amp adaptor to the input side of your 50 amp power cable should not be a problem. Do you have a surge suppressor? If not I suggest that you purchase one. My preference is an internal suppressor but a quality external suppressor will provide the same protection. If you purchase a 30 amp to 50 amp adaptor make sure the product you buy is a quality device.


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