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-   -   Older Norcold 1200. Refrigerator (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/older-norcold-1200-refrigerator-547555.html)

Boatman57 07-29-2021 06:44 PM

Older Norcold 1200. Refrigerator
 
Hi all.once again requesting help from the rv gods and gurus...2001 norcold 1200lrim unit.freezer is fine.fridge not so much.ac or LP is same.5 amp fuse on board is good.tia for any advise.

Jim_HiTek 07-29-2021 07:03 PM

There were several recalls on the Norcold 1200 series. They are poorly made and had thin tubing walls, which could crack, leak, and start a raging fire. They had at least 3 recalls, which did nothing to address the problem of bad design. Many RV'ers had their RVs burst into flame driving down the road. Some died in bed.

I'd trash it and buy a new coil set from the Amish. Youtube videos will show you how to change it or any competent Mobile Tech will do it.

If the interior of the refer is trashed, get a new one and many iRV2 members will come along soon with recommendations. But don't buy a used 1200. Maybe a refurbished Amish unit would be okay though.

Norcold stalled, denied, denied there was even a problem for years, then came out with those lame fixes that often needed fixing themselves. And didn't actually help much. Eventually though, they LOST a class action suit and many people were compensated somewhat for their losses and expenses. Norcold was shameful throughout this entire situation.

Good luck.

mfire1339 07-29-2021 07:44 PM

Make sure the rear fans are working.

Old-Biscuit 07-29-2021 07:51 PM

Yes SOME fires were a result of fridge cooling coil leaking
Majority of RV Fires...MHs were result of oil fires/brake fires/engine compartment fires

Freezer gets cold...food compartment doesn't
*Is Fridge LEVEL
*Are the Exterior fans running
*Is Draft restricted....insulation fallen down, vent(s) obstructed
*Are both elements working
*Is flame strong/steady BLUE and just reaching up into the bottom of Flue

Freezer cold/food compartment not could be
*Bad thermistor
*Bad circuit board
*Obstructed/blockage between freezer evap coil and food compartment evap coil

Check the above.....
Then unplug the thermistor leads at Lamp connection in food compartment
Set temp setting to MAX (9)
Run fridge for 12hrs W/O thermistor connected...no temp sensing/fridge cools continuously
Both compartments get COLD....replace the thermistor

Only freezer not the food compartment then need to test cooling units capability to cool
Unplug the Element Leads from circuit board
Unplug the AC Power cord...plug the leads into the Outlet
This energies the elements continuously
Bypasses ALL controls
run for another 12 hrs
Fridge will get very cold IF cooling unit is functioning properly
Only freezer not food then cooling unit is obstructed/blockage
NEW cooling unit, new fridge, new ??? Your decision


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