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cjatx 08-05-2021 05:53 AM

Norcold Cooling Fan?
My Norcold 1200 refrigerator hasn't been working properly since outside temps have been hitting the 90's. I noticed from other threads this can be an issue with poor air circulation at the coils. I removed the exterior vent cover and set up a large fan blowing on the coils and the fridge cooled right down.
If there's an existing fan, it's obviously not working. I can't locate a fan installed by Norcold or Newmar to replace. Does anyone know if there is a fan somewhere that I'm not seeing? If I add my own fan(s), what's a good one to use and best place to locate it?
I have an 07 Mountain Aire.
Thank you!

oldcoon 08-05-2021 06:04 AM

Used a couple of small computer fans wired up to 12 Volts.

ThunderRidge 08-05-2021 06:44 AM

I got rid of my NoCold in my last coach and went to a residential fridge. I tried all sorts of fans inside and outside the unit. We ruined more food in the NoCold over the years while using all the tricks and tips I read about over the years. The unit could not handle the Florida summer heat.

Easy swap to residential fridge and loved it. I won’t ever own a NoCold again.

MSHappyCampers 08-05-2021 12:43 PM

Look at my posts 25 & 44 in the link below. Maybe this will give you some ideas! :thumb::D

Old-Biscuit 08-05-2021 12:51 PM

Norcold 1200 should have OEM external fans that are t-stat controlled

T-stat is connected to Condenser FIN (top of fridge)...12VDC comes from circuit board to t-stat then to the fans

Fans are located center line Mid level of fridge above the absorber tube bundle
**Can't see them from lower Access/Vent

Replacement fans....12VDC Computer fans mounted at top
Fans PULL air better then PUSH it

**If fridge is in slide out...upper access/vent is great for getting to the Fan T-stat and/or mounting new fans
Roof Top Vent...have to remove it to gain access

1200 Service Manual
Pg 31...Fan/T-stat Info
Pg 36...diagram of backside of fridge

astrnmrtom 08-05-2021 01:12 PM

In my opinion, the factory fans are set to come on at too high of a temperature. Some people install a switch inside the coach so they can turn on the fans in hot weather.

As mentioned above, a couple 12v 120mm computer case fans added on top of the condenser fins will help.

Another thing that can help is a small circulating fan inside the fridge to stir the air. Better yet, another small fan to flow over the fins. This can even help reduce or eliminate frost on the fins.

While you have the upper cover off, make sure the section between the top of the refrigerator and the roof is properly baffled. Sometimes the manufacturers install a lower vent, upper vent and just shove the refrigerator into the box leaving a large dead air space between the top of the refrigerator and the roof vent. There should be something separating this area from the natural convective airflow over the warm coils. A little sheet metal flashing can be used to keep rising air going straight past the coils and out the roof vent. Refrigerators installed in slide struggle more because the convective flow is poorer but baffling is important in any case.

I had the same issues you did, until I made the above changes. After that, the refrigerator worked as designed even with ambient temps in the 90s. At other times I was able to run it at a lower setting. I'm convinced a lot of the complaints about the Norcolds is due to poor installation, and the fact that the larger ones don't have anything to circulate the interior air. Norcold could improve the design by adding a small fan inside, but it's up to the coach manufacturers to install and baffle them properly. I used a small 12V CPU fan out of my electronic junk drawer zip tied to the back of the lower wire shelf blowing up and built a fan forced plenum across the top of the inside gently blowing air backwards toward the fins. Both were powered off the interior light circuit.

TOM356C 08-05-2021 01:27 PM

I did all of the above suggestions>2 year old Norcold & went with Amish cooling unit. Took it to Shipswanna twice. 4fans plus 2 inside fridge. I finally went with a Samsung RT 18 residential in the slideout. Never Nevercold again. Tom 07 Pacifica TE40B

Old-Biscuit 08-05-2021 01:35 PM

Norcold OEM Fan t-stat.....Closes/Start fans at 130*F Condenser FIN temp not air temp
T-stat Opens/Stops fans at 115*F Condenser FIN temp

Condenser FIN temp is used as that is the section where the HOT Ammonia Vapor is 'condensed' into Warm Ammonia Liquid

Standard draft/airflow and condenser FIN temps Up to 130*F will adequately condense the Hot Vapor into Liquid
Below 115*F FIN temp enhanced air flow not necessary.....

In Ambient Air Temps above 85*F...increased airflow is needed
Condenser FIN temp should be at/above 130*F with high ambient air temps

Ambient Air temp switch is available...Close at 85*F air temp

cjatx 08-06-2021 06:11 AM

I appreciate all the help. My refrigerator is not in the slideout. It vents through a 2” pipe in the roof.
Ill see if I can locate the cooling fan as you described and start there. Will also add one inside. That seems pretty like it should be fairly simple.
Thank you!

Old-Biscuit 08-06-2021 09:59 AM


Originally Posted by cjatx (Post 5862384)
I appreciate all the help. My refrigerator is not in the slideout. It vents through a 2” pipe in the roof.
Ill see if I can locate the cooling fan as you described and start there. Will also add one inside. That seems pretty like it should be fairly simple.
Thank you!

IF..IF that is how it was installed then that 2" pipe is not providing enough ventilation OUT
Roof top vent should be almost as wide as fridge

Can Not reach OEM Fan unless you pull fridge out
MAY be able to reach Fan T-stat by removing roof vent (and check the vent size)

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