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kdflyer 09-10-2021 02:35 PM

Help locating a transfer switch
 
3 Attachment(s)
I had a technician check the transfer switch, and the switch in the center is the problem. (see attached photos)There is voltage coming in and going out of the one on the left and the right but not the center one. Anybody have an idea of where I could get one of these? He cannot find one anywhere.

kdflyer 09-11-2021 06:35 AM

Cooperhawk,

Do you have a picture of the inside of the switch? This one has 3 terminals and I think most newer switches have 2.

Cooperhawk 09-11-2021 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kdflyer (Post 5909493)
Cooperhawk,
Do you have a picture of the inside of the switch? This one has 3 terminals and I think most newer switches have 2.

No, I haven't taken it apart. Perhaps if you look at their web site they have one.

Cooperhawk 09-11-2021 10:21 AM

https://rvpower.southwire.com/produc...ransfer-switch

This is all I found.

gnvrvin 09-11-2021 11:57 PM

Jim,
I believe Todd is no longer in business.

So most likely any 50 Amp transfer switch will work.

There are 2 inputs on a transfer switch....

1: Shore Power

2: Generator

There is one output on the transfer switch...out to panel
Which means when the transfer switch senses Generator power it passes that out to the panel. If it senses shore power it passes that out to the panel

we upgraded to an ESCO LPT50BRD it is a DC coil so you have minimal hum..our coach is quite quiet now after swap out

What is the information for your coach...year make model would help for anyone that may have the same

Let us know what you found out,
greg

kdflyer 09-13-2021 05:20 AM

Greg,

The coach is in my signature, a 1995 Country Coach Concept. I am trying to find a replacement for the Todd Engineering Power Switch model P260S.

Thanks,

CountryFit 09-13-2021 08:48 AM

Not famililar with your coach... The center on your ATS is the neutral wire. When you are on shore power on split phase, and no load or the loads on both legs are equal, there shouldn't be current on the neutral, and the voltage is near 0. Your ATS should be good.

gnvrvin 09-13-2021 10:32 AM

Reread the original post
And Steven is right
Do you have power in the coach both shore and generator? And only issue was the techs observation?
Why was the Tech looking at it to begin with?

Mainecoons 09-13-2021 02:35 PM

That arrangement looks like you can clean the contacts using emory paper. I'd try that first before replacing.

Smitty77 09-13-2021 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mainecoons (Post 5912510)
That arrangement looks like you can clean the contacts using emory paper. I'd try that first before replacing.

X's 2:)!

Hope that gets things flowing...
Smitty

1986CC38 09-21-2021 10:03 PM

Reference Chart for Your Use
 
Custom Marine Services, Quick Source, Todd Engineering, Automatic Transfer Switches, Automatic Power Transfer Switches, Motor Coach, RV, Marine

If you copy and paste this link, and then scroll down you will find a cross-over to your Todd transfer switch. I went through this same thing four years ago. I ended up going with Progressive Dynamics but all the ones mentioned earlier are good choices.

Todd used a number of internal jumper wires to connect their switch components internally (inside the switch) which was fine for the day, but if you look at the chart example in the link they are not in use today. They also had separate neutral connections for each side as part of that setup and the newer switches utilize only one per side. On my coach which is a little older than yours I also have Todd relays setup outside of the transfer switches that create an extra layer of sensing or protection since my unit is not "computer smart."

I have two ATS's in my coach, one of which passes through the inverter side of things. The new ATS has worked just fine with the remaining Todd setup. That said I carry a spare ATS. If I had one fail I could change it out fast or have an electrician do it. I hope that helps.

kdflyer 09-26-2021 05:25 AM

Update
 
thanks, 1986CC38, I found CMS earlier and spoke with Dan who was very informative.

Current situation:

We replaced the transfer switch, and could still not get power to the outlets in the coach. However we were able to get shore and generator power to the switch, but still no power to the coach. We were getting power to the GFI in the basement of the coach, but still no power to the house. Next replaced the GFI upstairs, still no power. The next fix was house batteries. Thinking the transfer switch was not working because not enough voltage, we replaced the house batteries. Still not power to the coach. The next item is the inverter. I am wondering now if the original problem was the inverter, or do we still have a switch somewhere in the wrong position. Everything we do shows power to the coach, but not to the outlets or the house. Now I am thinking maybe the transfer switch was not the problem to begin with. If the batteries cannot charge without the inverter, and the transfer switch cannot work because of no power from the inverter, maybe that is the problem. I don't know if we should spend the $1800-$2000.00 on the inverter, or take the coach to someone with more experience that might recognize the problem. My thought is if I replace the inverter and I still have the problem, I am really up the creek!!
Is there another switch or fuse or something that would cause this problem? Is there a way to test the inverter before replacing?

deandec 09-26-2021 11:56 AM

Parts changing can be expensive.

Why not trace your 120v power supply with a multimeter to see where it stops flowing before spending money on an inverter?

On my rig, the 120v power flows from shore power to Transfer Switch to Breaker Panel, then to Inverter to GFI to Wall Outlets per the Manual.

(Except, my 1995 Inverter also has two additional breakers for the Microwave and Wall Outlet circuits mounted on the wall near the Inverter.)

I would test for power at the above components in reverse order.

CountryFit 09-26-2021 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deandec (Post 5928506)
Parts changing can be expensive.

Why not trace your 120v power supply with a multimeter to see where it stops flowing before spending money on an inverter?

On my rig, the 120v power flows from shore power to Transfer Switch to Breaker Panel, then to Inverter to GFI to Wall Outlets per the Manual.

(Except, my 1995 Inverter also has two additional breakers for the Microwave and Wall Outlet circuits mounted on the wall near the Inverter.)

I would test for power at the above components in reverse order.

Our 2000 has the same flow, except that two wires from inverter output - one goes to microwave directly, another goes to gfci to wall outlets.

My opinion - OP needs to find an experienced RV tech not a generic "electrician". A simple measurement of 120v present vs non-present could pin down the problem. Throwing parts isn't a good way to trouble shoot.


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