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-   -   Help locating a transfer switch (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f112/help-locating-a-transfer-switch-553417.html)

deandec 09-26-2021 07:45 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 344330

kdflyer 09-27-2021 03:45 AM

CountryFit,

You are correct, that is the plan today. I am calling this morning to describe the problem and find someone who has experience who can troubleshoot. I was hoping there was a magical switch in the wrong position somewhere that would fix the problem!!

Thanks all . . .

1986CC38 09-27-2021 02:59 PM

I have some ideas if you want to troubleshoot yourself. Your call there
Question though for my understanding is it just outlets not powering up and do you have some outlets that are non inverter?

kdflyer 09-28-2021 03:56 AM

No outlets in the house work. No electricity to the refrigerator, microwave, 110 lights, air conditioners. There is one GIF in the basement located close to the inverter that does work.

The "test" breaker in the breaker box trips, even though we replaced the GFI upstairs.

Sbrownstein 09-28-2021 05:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kdflyer (Post 5930830)
No outlets in the house work. No electricity to the refrigerator, microwave, 110 lights, air conditioners. There is one GIF in the basement located close to the inverter that does work.

The "test" breaker in the breaker box trips, even though we replaced the GFI upstairs.

If the schematic that deandec posted matches your rig as well, that GFCI outlet is powered by the inverter and should work regardless of the status of the transfer switch...at least until your batteries go flat! However the rest of the inverter outlets (TV, reefer, etc.) are fed through that GFCI outlet so it could be confusing. If there is no AC power your inverter will automatically start (as long as it is turned on) and feed the other outlets. There should be two 20 amp breakers for the inverted output that are remote and probably near the inverter.

You problem is not rocket science but deductive diagnostics that involve inverters and AC and DC, something that most electricians cannot handle. Your expert needs to ignore a little AC coming from your inverter and focus on the main shore power problem.

Remember, most electricians think a 30 amp rv plug goes in a dryer outlet!!!!

Quick68 09-30-2021 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gnvrvin (Post 5910478)
Jim,
I believe Todd is no longer in business.

So most likely any 50 Amp transfer switch will work.

There are 2 inputs on a transfer switch....

1: Shore Power

2: Generator

There is one output on the transfer switch...out to panel
Which means when the transfer switch senses Generator power it passes that out to the panel. If it senses shore power it passes that out to the panel

we upgraded to an ESCO LPT50BRD it is a DC coil so you have minimal hum..our coach is quite quiet now after swap out

What is the information for your coach...year make model would help for anyone that may have the same

Let us know what you found out,
greg




YES Jim, What Greg has mentioned is absolutely 100% correct. Tomorrow morning I'm replacing my factory transfer switch and replacing it with a Progressive Dynamics PD52V 5200 Series Auto-transfer switch. only because the factory transfer switch has a plastic case and it has melted the containing box.

You don't necessarily need the exact replica of what is currently in your motorhome. just find one with the same amps and specifications has your current one.

Good Luck


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