Hope the dealer in Fort Wayne doesn't screw up anything else replacing the fridge.

still on my last trip 2 days ago middle AC Mach 8 squirrel cage came apart and an hour later front AC started drawing high current ( suspect cap is bad) swapped squirrel cage from front to middle will deal with front later.

Transmission. No warning, noise, nothing. Went from freeway cruising @65 mph to suddenly no response to throttle. Bright sides were that I had just come through a stretch bunch of road barriers on BOTH sides of the road where there would have been no possible place to pull over and I would have been blocking a lane. As it was I did not have to call 911 and called a buddy with a 12 ton tow truck instead.
Bonus was I had a load of grandkids but the oldest chose to drive our toad instead of us pulling it. So it was easy to pile them in with him and have him evac them to the house.
Also we were 90 miles from home. So the tow wasn't expensive. He wanted to just charge me fuel but I forced more money on him.
We were going with two other family pull behinds. So got the SUV and piled into daughter's camper with here so our weekend trip was delayed and sans RV, but still happened and otherwise went well.
Lastly, my transmission is an E4OD which I know well inside and out. Once I get the behemoth extracted I'm looking forward to finding out what the heck happened and applying as many of the known updates and upgrades to it during a rebuild or refresh, whatever it needs. I had planned to do some things to it already but it had been behaving just fine.
Bad, yes? Could have been ever so much worse? You darn betcha, could have been awful to deadly.

Not even into my next trip and the Shower Head will not let water pass. New Oxygenics ordered and installed

Last trip - guess so as the toilet water valve wouldn't close when winterizing. Being a Thetford Style ll, there is a replacement base for around $75 so that's the way I'll go since we got 7+ years with this one. If it fails again, then I'll upgrade to a Dometic 310 or 320 but only as a last resort as this 5er may go down the road with a new owner in another year or two.

Engine door struts quit holding the door up
Must have only had one working ?
Northwest RV supply here I come

Did you check Amazon or Ebay? Might save a buck.

It does seem that there is always something breaking or needing attention. I think one of my rear shocks failed.. Still on our trip about 3k miles and 30 days. Had a celing light cover fall and crack. I found it it on amazon and will order a day before we head home. Had the sliding mirror lactch break. It's always breaking I order in 2 packs.

I have 3 new rattles/squeaks. Screen door and shower developed a rattle. I think I can fix it. Also, when I air up to ride height i get a squeak when I walk around. I think I found it. FrMe to suspension bushing. So I will take it to the frame and suspension shop and have new rear shocks and a squeak fixed

2 issues; 1. leveling system pressure switch started leaking externally, which would trigger a jacks down alarm, about every 2 minutes, for about 2 seconds.
2. Front anti-sway bar end link bolts loosened up, causing popping every time I turned the wheel, any way I turned the wheel.

July of 2020 I bought a 2003 Fun Mover. Got it home and gutted it, rebuilt it, wiring, plumbing, cabinets, basically everything. Absolutely nothing failed until I decided to sell it. Then one of the few things I did not touch failed. The stair motor. Easy fix but why when I wanted to sell it.

Bought a 2007 Damon Outlaw to replace it. It had the right price so I figured I would need to do a few things. Drove it 200 miles to get it home and found a water leak at the water pump, bad fitting. And again the stair motor failed. Been in it now for 5 weeks and all seems good. We will se what happens when we leave for Colorado on Nov. 1

Gracie did great! Sparky (the golf cart) had issues.

The driver's side mirror worked loose and turned out of alignment. The Allen wrench needed to tighten the set screw was missing from the ones in the tool kit. Was able to tighten up the mirror with a fastener bit that fit with a struggle. Yes, you do need a full tool kit.

Parked our MH in the garage, did some work underneath, removed ramps and moved the MH back to the wheel chocks and shut it down.
An hour later I needed to move the slide room out, pushing the switch did nothing. I checked all the fuses, power was to the motor solenoid.
I sat in the driver chair and pondered this when suddenly I noticed every time I pushed the extend switch the brake warning on the dash would illuminate.



Then It dawned on me_ I had forgot to set the parking brake.:blush:

I got one back on the last trip. My water gauge has been off since we bought the coach new. I finally pulled the cover off, rearranged the sensors and they now work as designed.

While camping a Coles Creek State campground on the St. Lawrence Seaway this past summer a sudden wind burst caught my awning and bent the support arm. I made a temporary repair to get home. In trying to get a replacement arm, I found out that my Dometic awning is a special build part for Winnebago and has been obsoleted by Dometic, with no replacement. The arm is 3" longer than a standard Dometic awning to allow the awning to clear the side out under it. My MH is a 2012 Winnebago Sightseer 33C. The 33C was produced through 2018 with this awning. Now myself and owners with MH's like as little as 3 years old have no replacement awning if damage occurs.
What appears to be the Corporate structure of many of the RV manufactures and RV systems suppliers is all about quick profit and to supply no support.
I was able to straighten the arm (not easy) and replace the spring tensioner that also broke. It's not prefect, but I guess it will have to do.

We’re back! The coach and all associated systems worked as they should. Sweet! However, the Progressive Industries
EMS-PT50X portable EMS unit decided not to play anymore. So….nothing on the MH broke….technically. PI are supposed to be very good at customer relations so we’ll see how well they handle this one. No one has answered or returned calls yet.
Time to put her to bed.

Just completed a two month round trip from TX to OR and WA … about 5,200 miles … the little clip that holds the windshield washer tube and sprayer nozzle onto the driver side wiper broke.

The plastic handle that holds the screen door to the main door broke in Hattiesburg MS. Went to an RV parts house with the broken part in hand. They “matched” it up and sold me a replacement for $23. Put the thing on and threw the receipt and the box in the kitchen trash and then threw the trash bag in the dumpster…and the bag rolled way to the back of the dumpster…but the door just did not work right. I was not going to go dumpster diving to dig the receipt out. Chalked it up to lessons learned. Fortunately I had the original part on the floor of the truck. Stopped in a Camping World on the next leg of the trip and found the right part for $18. Problem solved.

When we bought our older coach the same issue was present- a bent extension arm. A replacement wasnt available, or not easily available anyway. I disassembled it, and very carefully bent the arm back strait. Now I must admit I have a 10 ton antique arbor press in my shop, but if you can disassemble your bent part Im certain a local machine / fabrication shop can straiten things out for a reasonable cost.

Generator won't start on the last trip, so in the shop it will go I guess. Normally I would try to fix it myself , but age is catching up on me. so off to those better equiped to do the work

Yep we've had that issue also. Heres a thought. Call your most local RV dealer and check if there's someone in your area that performs mobile service. We have a guy in our general area. He drives right to your camper and performs repairs. Most items I can fix myself but there's a fine line between time and $$$$$. Sometimes Im just super busy and it makes more sense to pay for a repair.

The magnetic switch for the Kwikee step failed, a first! I'd never seen on fail before. A tap with a toe was all it took to get it to retract or extend at need, but the new switch is a generic one from Amazon, and it works great. (I bought a pack of two, so now I have a spare I will probably never need!)

Heater core started to leak the last few day of our trip 4 week trip. Got back a week ago ordered core and installed a new core.

Also, I ordered new rear shocks. Will install this Friday. Putting the camper to bed until mid late January.

3 Months, 5500 miles, toilet seal leaking after new flooring install, replaced by Mobil RV tech (I don’t enjoy plumbing work). Month later Kwikee steps stuck out, found a control module for my older series 32 steps, steps working again. Two weeks later, stuck out again, almost home so pulled the pin, pushed them in and deployed bunge cords. Ordered new gear box and electric motor only to be told my gear box and motor are out of production. Must order a series 32 ‘step kit’ to upgrade, waiting for it as it’s on back order so, still step less. Previously purchased control module is obsolete as well.

Now have a slightly used obsolete control module as a souvenir!

10 000 miles trip
 

Have been thanking god ever since , 10k miles round trip with a 98 Grand Vectra with only a fridge fuse that has blown when i connected back on garage electrical at home. Have done half of the trip in frigide -20 temp then the other half in extreme heat high 110 . Will be thanking everyone in this forum for the help in this trip

On the 4th morning of our last trip a month ago when I went to put the coach in gear to pull out from the overnight rv site the gear shifter felt extremely stiff, most likely it is the shifter cable going bad, possibly accumulated heat damage as it is routed near the exhaust, and the day before it started acted up we were west bound on I-20 with 106F degree highs that day, so maybe just enough extra heat to push it over the edge and give out.

I really love this thread. All of us that carry/tow a house over highways, side roads, gravel road, dirt roads, no roads have found out that if you carry/tow your house it WILL break.

I like many others have found that fixing what's broke is part of the adventure.

I didn't expect to hear of the BIG problems that some of you have faced. Truly tragic! I have been RVing for 51 years and have never had to be towed! KNOCK ON WOOD! I have never had a repair that I couldn't do my self. KNOCK ON WOOD! Exception is transmission problems a few times that required professional intervention. It did run good enough to get to the transmission shop. I have sat in an RV park for 4 days awaiting parts ONCE!

Keep on truckin' er ... Keep on RV'n!

I like this thread as some posts might give me a heads up on things that I may be able to do something about preventing that I would not have considered on my own.

Our Cummins ISM lost turbo boost in the Arkansas hills. On a hill of course!. Flashers on, we made it up the hill at what felt like 1 mph. Never looked at the speedometer though. Pulled into the first parking lot that we could fit into; A Western Sizzler so at least dinner was ready! Clinton, AR a super small town. Inspected the turbo plumbing and CAC for obvious leaks; Nothing, dang! Ripped the bathroom floor and vanity out to get a view of the turbo. It was raining outside and it continued to rain for two days, depressing atmosphere for sure. Everything "looked" good. I removed the turbo inlet and outlet plumbing to get a hand and eye on the turbo and everything looked great. I called the only truck repair shop in town and they said they were backed up for 6 weeks so they couldn't help. I called about 5 internet stores looking for a turbo and to this day nobody has found a replacement nationwide. Even Cummins doesn't have one. Can you feel the panic?!

There is an electronic turbo actuator bolted to the turbo. It controls the level of turbo boost pressure. To test the lever that this actuator moves I had to remove the actuator. Once removed, a full calibration process is required and can only be done by someone with Cummins tool or equivalent so no going back now.

The turbo actuator arm felt fine and moved normally. This led me to believe that the actuator could be at fault. I found an actuator online and had it shipped to a nearby Dollar General FedEx Express overnight.

I decided to have a face-to-face conversation with the local truck mechanic. I visited his shop and plead my case. He was a great salt-of-the-earth kind of guy and agreed to come to my RV but he had to leave town at 4pm and my package wasn't to be delivered until 4pm. Great.

I camped out at the Dollar General waiting on the FedEx truck. It arrived at 2pm. Finally, a break. I drove back to the truck repair shop and invited the mechanic/owner to come and do his magic. It took him and me about 10 minutes to get the turbo actuator initialized and calibrated. That was the best $200 I ever spent and not bad income for him, either. Both are happy.

It was late in the day by the time I got everything back together including the bathroom cabinets and floor. The engine would start but virtually no boost pressure just sitting in the parking lot revving it in neutral. We decided to wait until first light to try to get back on the road. We had absolutely no idea if the engine/turbo would perform. As soon as we exit the parking lot we're immediately on US 65 highway, again not good.

Well, this story has a happy ending. The turbo took off as I pressed the pedal and the engine ran smooth and strong. No codes on the Silverleaf monitor.

I left a bunch of detail out of the story for brevity; Such as it is. Like buying bottles of water from Walmart to pump into our water tank so we could flush our toilets, but forget showers!

It was quite the misadventure. We scuttled our immediate plans and only drove 100 miles into Little Rock to spend a week depressurizing. All's well that ends well. :dance:

Last RV Trip
 

Driving along at 65mph on the highway outside of Phoenix heading to Lake Havasu City. All of the sudden, all of my gauges started flipping out and then lost all power. Go to the side and nothing. When I tried to turn it over, it clicked like a dead battery. The display came on CHECK VOLTAGE and REDUCED POWER but wouldn't start. My wife was following in her car. I thought that it may be the chassis battery so we went back to the nearest city (25 miles each way) to get a battery. Then, my wife's car died on the highway on the way back to the RV. Got a ride and scheduled a second tow with AAA. A very nice lady came by and took us to the RV. New battery didn't help. Called AAA. Totally useless. They couldn't find anyone who could tow it. Went back and rented a car, back to my wife's car waiting for AAA then to the RV to take stuff out and wait for the RV tow truck. My wife tried to turn on the coach lights and they didn't turn on. I checked the coach batteries (2 6V wired in series). I touched the wire that ties the 2 batteries together. It arched and then all of the interior lights came on. I tightened all battery cables then the RV started and we were back on the road. I would have never suspected that a bad cable for the coach would cause an engine problem.

2005 Monaco LaPalma

Last trip was the jack alarm going off while driving down the highway. Could not get it to shut off and needless to say, jack was not down. Drove on to my campsite and when we left, alarm was no longer going off. Strange. Trip before that was windshield popping out. My wife definitely believes something goes wrong every trip.

Hmmm...the forum software is confused today. Your post count is 0 but I'm reading your post!

Way to adapt and overcome though! :goodjob:

Until yesterday hadn't had a chance to chase down a grinding noise on the brake system of my Ford SD tow vehicle heard on the last trip. 319 DIY bucks later, new brake pads and rotors just for the rear. Wont get them installed until Friday or Saturday then I may end up with another chunk of bucks for the front brakes. And these only had about 92.000 miles on them:whistling:


Needless to say that I am impressed with the mileage as probably 60% of those mile were towing. Brand name is Power Stop Z36 towing for both pads and rotors

I had to have complete rotors and pads replaced in an older Ford Freestyle. Discovered the father-in-law from whom I purchased the car always used Cruise control. So the rear brakes were constantly in use to moderate speeds on the highway. Significantly more use of brakes than not using cruise control.

What relationship do the rear brakes and the cruise control have on a Freestyle?

I think you are talking about Active Cruise Control - except to the best of my knowledge, Ford didn't start using that feature until 2017.


My history with many Fords is that the OE rotors and pads are way too soft and are often both shot in the 22,000 to 40,000 mile range, depending on vehicle - as were the ones on my last 3 trucks (including the curren one) and the past 2003 Escape and 2012 Fusion, The current Escape Titanium is suspect as the Michelin Latitude tires are shot at 21,000 miles.

Latest trip out was 4 weeks lakeside at our favorite (kinda close to home) campground...the toilet seat broke (hinges). Was not inconvenient enough to cause us to leave...but an easy fix once back at home!

Front wheel
 

Just got back from an awesome 5000+ miles trip! No major problems until we were within 300 miles from home and noticed the left front tire wearing on the outside and cupping. Decided I had hit too many holes in road and front end needed alignment. Then, by the time I pulled into our drive, there was a squeaking sound from the front left. I took the unit to local tire dealer to get alignment and he discovered that the wheel hub was loose on the spindle. Further discovering that the wheel bearing were basically dry, had heated up and causing the wheel hub to become loose. Under warranty, so I called Ford and they opened a case, gave approval within a couple days and paid for the complete front end diagnosis and fix!! Could have been a disaster while on the road! Thanks to Ford for expediting the case.

In late September, less than 200 miles into a 3,000 mile trip, near Colby, KS we suddenly lost power in our coach. Couldn't get past 30 - 40 mph. Managed to find a small mechanic shop in Colby where they are familiar with Cummins engines and very adept at working on them. Fuel filter and fuel/water separator were old and we suspected one of them as the culprit. Changed them... still no power. As I exited the back lot of the shop to try the new filters the fellow that runs the shop "heard a familiar flutter" and suspected a turbocharger issue. Checked the turbo and discovered two missing nuts and one lose nut on the turbo mounting studs. Pulled the turbo and discovered a broken mounting gasket. Didn't have the correct gasket so the mechanic cobbled the old gasket back together and remounted the turbo. Coach ran great, and some 3,000 miles later we are back at home and ready to get a new gasket for the turbo. There are still some folks out there that can improvise and fix what's broken!

One of the little do-hickies molded into the door of the Norcold that locks the door tray in.
Did I mention it is 18 months young? Grrrr. It looks like I have to replace the whole
inside panel!

Previous trip the passenger side dual wiper arm broke during a heavy rain. This trip the driver’s side wiper arm broke in the same area during another rain storm. Parking brake sensor light failed and spent hours at a Love’s truck stop for one of their mechanics to confirm the brake was not engaged even though the light was on.

Sewer hose bayonet failed to stay
locked with hose extension causing a rupture when we dumped the grey water, could have been worse. Had to drive 50 miles to locate a new hose.

Those guys are actually called mechanics. I remember when....

Hydraulic leak on a leveling cylinder. Went to NAPA for brake clean, found a bad fitting and went back to NAPA, they had one at the warehouse and their truck was there so I had the fitting about 2 hrs later. Not an easy place to get to but its fixed. I hadn't planed anything for that day anyway.

All functions from steering wheel and turn signal control handle, so no turn signals, no cruise control, no wipers, no interface to trip computer, no miles to empty, no headlamp dim/bright control. So far, Ford says Jayco, Jayco dealer proved to me its Ford with a wiring diagram. Ford corporate involved, but they are just looking to make me go away.

Haldex Air dryer (only 3 years old), quit me. Low Air buzzer came on in traffic, managed to coast and lead traffic lights until I got to a parking lot. Spring brake deployed as I as I rolled to a stop.
Called Mobil RV tech, he arrived in couple hours, removed dryer, took 50 mile drive to FLiner for a new one. Tech did a nice install of dryer hardware, all fittings teflon taped. Back on the road 6.5 hours later.

Went with a Bendix dryer this time.

It was serviced annually with new filter. Is damp Florida climate a dryer killer?

Is Haldex an inferior product?

I had a similar experience with my dryer. The spring assy had gunk in it and it was sticking slightly open causing a drop in pressure and the warning buzzer to go off when I hit the brakes one time. I was able to tap it a few times and it closed up enough to get us to our campground. Since then when i replace the filter, i always clean the purge valve and spring assy. Haven’t had any issues since.

stuff breaks
 

I stopped at my son's to overnight on my way from South Dakota to Iowa.
When i put out my 18 foot slide the Aluminum threshold stayed in the middle of the floor.

I made an appointment at REV for January to have that re-wielded.
I am also having them replace all of the slide seals on all 4 slides while i am there.

3600 Mile trip from Dallas to Glendora, CA....

A bunch of small items.
1. Cross bolt for the front landing gear fell out. Threaded it back in and all good.
2. Water leak from the black tank flush at the anti siphon valve. A firm tightening and all good.
3. Water drain for the shower was not tight against the tub. Had to tighten another water fitting. Fun..

All easy stuff..

My back, my pocketbook, and then my spirit.

My Back! yep. My pocketbook! yep. My spirit! NEVER!!

Today, for some reason, the passenger side docking lights do not work. The fuse was fine but changed it anyway. The switch is fine. The driver-side and rear docking lights work fine.

Best

Dr. Mike

Can I make a list?
Heat pump quit
Windshield popped out of the seal.
Black tank started leaking.
Power vent died

After having the windshields replaced, it b appears the shop left the b door b open overnight. When I got it back, there was a rat inside. Luckily I saw him n early enough and got a trap to get rid of it.

Still not home yet, but hopefully, this is the end of the b list.

Windshield wiper bracket broke.

No wipers, trying to get repaired now.

Just got back from our trip to Fort Wilderness. On the way they double doors that separate the bedroom area from the rest of the coach broke.
Both doors are hung from a double track that was screwed to the ceiling . The screws pulled out of the wood and the track came down.
They used eight #8 self piercing screws to hold up quite a bit of weight . #8 screws into pine holding a lot of hanging weight equals failure.
The next morning while driving a rock was thrown up into the windshield causing a nice chip , if the windshield hadn’t been there it would have it me between the eyes !
So Safelite will be here Wednesday to inject the bullseye chip and I was able to repair the doors today . 6 toggle bolts rated at 70lbs each should be able the track on the ceiling.
Just part of RV ownership I guess .

For 14 months & 17,797 miles every trip had the ABS / Traction control failures on & off plus 2 trips had first right axle seal leaking then the left leaked twice after being replaced. Our last trip 2255 miles NOTHING BROKE! This was do to Ford replacing the entire rear axle rotor to rotor. However we did find 2 screws on the floor, one we were able to find where it came from.

Oh yea... Charming's post RE: broken windshield wiper post reminds me - on the same trip that our turbo gasket blew out in late September, as we were returning home in November, nearing Medicine Lodge, Kansas it started to rain. Turned the wipers on and after two or three swipes they quit working. Rain was light and we made it into Medicine Lodge okay. Two days later at home, came on irv2 forums and learned that on our model Itasca if wipers are not used over a long period of time the wiper motor tends to partially corrode and seize up, and a light tap with a hammer or wrench sometimes frees the motor up. I took a ball-peen hammer and tapped on the wiper motor and low and behold - wipers worked again!

My list
 

Rock star on windshield, repaired during trip. Then going a few CG later in another area a crack. Windshield replaced once home.

Passenger side shade wouldn't stay down, broken part in mcd shade no longer available.

Awning starting to tear, will get replaced in time.

Toad had trouble light (service advance trac) which went away on its own???

Toad had low tire pressure light and no low tires. Had all transmitters replaced, lost a day at discount tire.

All in all just minor blips for a 7,000 trip over 4 months.

The last trip in November was one of the worse I have had. Started out with a truck throwing a big chunk of rubber into corner of windshield. It glanced off, but did not damage it, just scared the heck out of us. Couple hours later we stopped for lunch. Went to turn on the generator, but it wouldn't start. Had a cold sandwich for lunch.

Also, when I went out to run the toad for a few minutes, I noticed the left side magnetic tow light was not there. It was hanging down by the wire. It had been broken. Now I knew what happened to that chunk of rubber that hit the windshield earlier. Spent about an hour repairing. Duct tape is a necessity!!! I'd get a new one when I got to Springfield, Mo.

An hour or so later came to a construction zone, quite common here in Pa. As we entered the zone, a truck forced me over into the cones. It was either hitting him or the cones. I chose the cones. the cones took out both front and rear plastic fenders. When I finally could pull over to inspect the damage, the steps didn't come out when I opened the door. Hopping out, the steps had been bent back bad. No temporary fix there. I had several step stools I could use. Apparently, one of the weights that the cones sit in had hit the step at 55 mph.

Had a great time in Springfield with grand daughters. The campground owner helped me to try and get the step straightened out, but things started breaking as we tried. Also could not get the generator to start....wouldn't even turn over. I'll wait till I got home to work on it.

Been home now for about a month and haven't made much progress fixing anything. Got one of the new fenders from Gulf Stream, but they didn't have the other one. No progress on the generator, though I spent a day working on it. The step is only held on by 4 bolts, but after working on it over 3 days, I have only 1 bolt out. The hardest part is digging through the huge gobs of spray foam to get to the bolts. Giving up for now cause it's getting cold her in Pa. Got my work cut out for me in the Spring

Have MERRY CHRISTMAS eeveryone!!!

I think I'm finished with the tears for now. After my last post the 7/6 cable that DH duck taped shorted out in the rain. Repairs in El Paso.

As we arrived at Bonelli Bluffs RV Park in San Dimas, CA the lift system hydrolic fluid dumped on the ground. Now we are sitting here unable to move and unable to get a technician. We have a very expensive spot at the Rose Parade that we must access by 10am on Thursday.

This is becoming the trip from hell.

500 miles over the SF Bay Bridge to Half Moon Bay and nothing broke. Did turn over to 111,000 miles on the odometer. :)

Rear Furnace fan broke on our way towards colder weather and was vibrating like crazy. (heats basement also) Amazon had one delivered next day. [emoji41]
Attachment 354358

Inner latch on the door broke at the bottom hinge. Managed to make it work until we got home. Ordered a whole new one from Amazon but haven't put it on yet.

The bank account, it ran out of money. I blamed my wife.

Slide Cable (front living room).

I think the gazillion potholes, mismatched highway to bridge transitions and other highway "works of art" on our 6,225 mile June cross country trip did all kinds of immediate and delayed damage to our 2017 coach.

In December when we arrived at our winter resort we found the BACK screws in overheard track for the HEAVY pocket door between the bathroom and bedroom had pulled out of the ceiling letting the back end of the track and door drop to the bottom of the pocket. The installation design would require significant destruction and removal of the finished wood walls to access. Over several hours, I was able to install long screws at an angle using about 4-5 feet of extensions.

I am thinking of putting a shim under the door when travelling to take some of the door weight off the track.

Over time the bedroom slide developed a symptom where pushing the switch caused the hydraulic motor to start but the room didn't move.

The switch is a DPDT momentary rocker switch. Half the switch turned on the hydraulic motor and the other half determined the direction of travel. Half the switch was intermittent.

I found a suitable replacement on Amazon. Extremely easy to change. It works good now.

As I mentioned earlier in this thread I had a similar failure on my sliding doors .
Fixed it with new heavier duty hardware but also welded up a support bar for the unsupported side of the track as insurance.
Some 3/4” emt and an 1/8” plate top and bottom did the trick . This should take some stress off of the hardware. The picture of the support got rotated somehow and I don’t know how to fix that !

Our door rail pulled away from the ceiling in the back of a 2" wide 24" deep pocket. I can't even get my arm back where the screws pulled out. That's why I had to use a combination of socket extensions, flashlight and lay on the floor to reach the holes in the rail at an angle that would allow me to drive the longer screws in yet not have so much screw head sticking out that the door rollers couldn't pass under them. I replaced all of the factory 1 1/2" long screws with larger and longer screws.

If it fails again, I considered taking the track out and welding a bracket on the bottom edge of the back end of the track that will allow me to put some screws or bolts into the back of the pocket horizontal wall. It would have to be a finished, nice installation as the backside of the bolt would be in the bedroom doorway and that wood is only 3/4" thick.

Adopting your approach, maybe I could wedge a length of vertical EMT into the back of the pocket supporting the track at the top and hold the EMT in place at the bottom with a strip of wood nailed to the bottom of the track. That would be a LOT easier than removing and replacing all the track screws!

Radiator let go on us just as we got home. Didn't just explode or anything, but left a puddle of coolant where we unhooked the toad. Managed to limp over to a repair shop to have it replaced. Now we wait for a month or two for them to have time to work on it and get a new radiator.

I was originally going to install an “L” bracket on the unsupported side but there is nothing substantial to screw into .
Figured an emt “ crutch” would transfer the weight to the floor and eliminate deflection from bumps and potholes.
We will be traveling on I95 through South Carolina next month so that will be the acid test since that’s what caused the failure to begin with !

After measuring, I find that the door is wider than the pocket is deep! It hits the back when closed and still extends about 1/2" beyond the pockets so there is NO room behind the door for an EMT "crutch." I may have to go back to the original plan.

The original design on my coach had the door sticking out 1" or so. If you can live with a 1/2" sticking out...so what!

My pocket door is in a hallway. Any intrusion past the pocket narrows the hallway to the bedroom. We can get by easily, change mattresses and anything else we need to do with it sticking out a little.

my wallet!!!!

Our almost full black tank when we got rear ended on I-10 east of Quartzite along with some body damage that I'm in the middle of fixing.

The people that hit us had a real "crappy" morning aside from their car being totaled.

Spent the winter putting about 4400 miles on the rig, between MN and AZ and back. All over, bad roads, lost places, no cellular service areas. Places where a breakdown could have been no fun.

Got back home, and blew out a U-joint 1 mile from my storage spot, 3 miles from my son's house. Got him on the phone, pulled it off the road with his truck, and replaced the U-joint within a few hours of breakdown.

I live a charmed life. This could have happened anywhere. It happened in the best possible spot.

9 year old Xantrex Prowatt 1000 made a pop sound and electronic smoke leaked out while running our 900 watt Kurig and TV.

Haven't heard the fan running the last few times we used it.

Orderd a 1500 watt one.

Top bracket holding 12v fridge into the cabinet surround worked itself loose, and fridge fell backwards into the cabinet. IMHO, bad design or production.

The Saga Continues
 

Our 2020 Gulf Stream BT5240 is continuing in its quest to spend my $$$$.
On our trip from MN to FL half way down the Dometic 6cu ft fridge decided to spring a leak in the ammonia system spewing the yellow cake in the wall compartment. Bought two new coolers and ice to save food stored in fridge.

Two days later the Maxx Air ceiling fan decides to illuminate the "green light of death" and ended its service.

Heading back to MN in about a week so decided to flush my Suburban SW6DE water heater and check condition of anode. Anode about 50% but the calcium deposits were quite numerous and saw some blue colored flakes, yep the porcelain liner has deteriorated and the water heater needs to be replaced.

Naturally none of this is under warranty according to the Big 3 because I did not report these defects in the first 30 days of ownership!

Kitchen faucet started leaking. Required a bowl until I could fix it

I-20 in Dallas rush hour
 

Going East on I-20 near Dallas bumper to bumper rush hour, serpentine belt exploded, fun week end in Dallas

Boy, talk about opening a can of worms! This could well be an ENDLESS conversation, Motorhomes. Well let me see here.....canopy bracket pulled out of ext. wall because they collided w oneanother? how does that happen? Tecma toilet stopped flushing, thank goodness for hall bath with normal toilet. HWH level leg would not come down but after cycling the auto level a third time all 4 came down and worked. Any body want to buy a Tiffin openroad 36la 2016? Soon it will be all new again LOL its the old Mercedes Benz system.... keep replaceing oem parts and sooner or later you have a brand new coach!!!

In January we went to visit my daughter as we got ready to leave the long slide out for the dining, living room decided it didn't want to move. Had to cut a hole in the belly to get at the slide out motor assembly. Found the key for the drive gear on the racks drive shaft sheared. Had to use a crescent wrench on the square tubing to get the slide out back in. Then had to use some straps to hold the slide out in place while traveling. Then yesterday was getting camper ready for a trip in a week and found the water heater leaking. Got a new one ordered and hoping it will be here in time to get it replaced before the trip. Seems like it's always something to fix on the camper or truck.

The forward slide came out an inch or so while driving. I pulled into a roadside rest stop, tried to move it back in, smelled hydraulic oil! Jumped out and saw that the oil had sprayed on the exhaust and caught fire!! I am so happy that I got it out quick with the fire extinguisher. Luckily I had an old hose left over from when another hose came apart at a fitting. (Replaced both) It can be a good thing to have spare parts. :)

Can’t get electrical fixed on Class A
 

Here is one. About 50% of the time I lose most things controlled from steering column. Wipers, turn signals, cruise control, dimmer, washer and all communications to trip computer. Dozens of times minutes to a day each time. Latest failure left turn signal would not stop no matter what, and zi can’t get an appointment at Ford dealer for 10-12 weeks! Only one service provider in all of WA for Class A motor homes. 3rd such issue getting service appointment in last 12 months. Ford warranty basically worthless!

For the first time since we bought our rig new, there were a couple of issues when preparing for our first trip.

First was a leaking Borg valve stem. Looks like the Ford dealer didn't torque it down sufficiently when installing last summer. Glad I caught it at the storage facility! CoachNet dispatched a mobile tire service and they fixed it right up.

Second was a clogged aerator on the kitchen faucet. Pressure and flow were REALLY low. I cleaned some obvious sediment from the aerator, but it didn't help much. Turns out the little insert inside of it has VERY small holes, most of which were plugged solid by mineral deposits. Even with a fine needle I couldn't get it cleared up very well. As a temporary fix, I simply drilled a 1/8" hole in the fine screen part. That took care of it, but I should remember to get a replacement since the flow is a bit wonky now.

Sure could have been worse.

A tire... we were way out on some BLM land. Limped it ~5 miles to get back to pavement, called Good Sam RA, and was road worthy 3 hours later... on Easter Sunday!

Coming back home to Illinois from SW Florida winter stay I lost my Cruise Control with a Amber CEL about 300 or so miles in..Checked everything out that I could & it all looked good so I drove another 1000 miles home with no issues & a very tired right foot. Bought a Scangauge-D & got a 151 fault code for an ATC system issue that my '04 American Eagle 400 ISL coach doesn't have & my Cummins Quickserve site converts the 151 to SPN 110..Coolant Temp Sensor issue with a RED CEL & Derate all which never happened so I'm STILL trying to chase it down after 2 1/2 weeks..Spartan & Cummins haven't been much help..BTW the PTO using the Cruise Control buttons works fine! My RIGHT FOOT is hoping to get this resolved very soon!!!

Dometic Awning trouble
 

Last summer we were at Cole's Creek State Park on the St. Lawrence River in NY. A very sudden wind sheer came up and before I could get the awning retracted the rear awning arm failed. I was able to make enough of a repair to get the awning tethered to the side of the MH to make it home. I called Winnebago and was told that they don't carry awning parts and I needed to go to the manufacturer for the replacement parts. With all the information from the ID tags on the awning I called Dometic. They stated that my awning arms are a Winnebago specific part that has been obsoleted with no replacement available. My MH is a 2012 Winnebago 33C Which was produced through 2017. The difference with the Winnebago specific part and a standard Dometic awning is the the Winnebago arm is 3" longer to allow the awning to clear the front passenger's side bump out that is under the awning. So long story short all the 33C's sold through 2017 have no awning replacement available due to what I call corporation greed. The new RV corporations are ALL ABOUT SALES and could care less about customer support after the sale. Neither Winnebago nor Dometic were sympathetic in the least and offered zero assistance.
This was my 3rd new Class A from Winnebago and I can assure you it is my last. They are NOT the company they once were. Luckily I am fairly handy and was able to obtain the non-Winnebago specific parts of the awning arm and straightened the arm the best I could to get the awning usable again.

I would suggest writing a letter to Ford Motor Company, with a copy to your local dealership, stating that you are informing them in writing in order to MEMORIALIZE the circumstances, detailing the issues you are experiencing, stating that in it's current condition, the vehicle is not usable for it's intended purpose (driving on public highways), since the defects affect required safety equipment (turn signals, and perhaps emergency flashers as well). If you can document when you first informed Ford of the problem, requesting an appointment, or if not, then request that from the date of your letter, you are requesting that your Ford Factory Warranty be extended for the amount of time from Ford being notified of the problem, until the date that the problem is SUCCESSFULLY resolved. Reference the MAGNUSON-MOSS WARRANTY ACT of 1975 in your letter. Request that the requested warranty extension be provided IN WRITING.
Depending on their response, or lack of response, I would open a case with your state Office of the Attorney General. You can do this free of charge, most times on-line. Document each and every contact you've had with Ford, what was said, and their responses. Be clear and concise. In my experience, they will take it from there, especially if you have provided a clear statement of the issue, and let them know what your requested resolution is, for instance "repair of your vehicle in a timely manner, with the warranty extended for the amount of time between Ford being notified, and the successful repair actually being accomplished." No business wants to get a letter from the State Office of the Attorney General.
Best of luck!

I feel your pain! I dont have the link but there are several MH junkyards on this forum if you do a search. I had to replace 1 arm on our older Holiday Rambler right after we bought it as the arm was bent and the awning was difficult to extend. A local dealer had a shed full of awning arms. Found one, bought it cheap, and did the replacement. Wasnt easy preloading the springs but I did that also. Been working perfectly since. Good luck!

Your wallet is not the only thing that is surely broke!

Cruise control.

Awning on drivers side split. Have one ordered & shop ready to put it on when we get the MH back from body shop.

Driving home on I70, passing a semi & sheets of ice came off the top of the trailer and hit the windshield. Also damaged the fiberglass under the windshield. At the body shop now repairing & repainting, and fixing a few other dings that happened. Also new windshield.

That has turned out to be an expensive trip. And that was in February before the cost of fuel went up.