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Floridastorm 10-15-2021 11:53 AM

Most Expensive Repair or Replacement
 
For those of you that have a Class C or a Class B motorhome only and where there is no warranty involved or it's out of warranty.

*What is the most expensive Repair or Replacement you have ever had to have done that you could not do yourself?

*What is the most expensive Repair or Replacement you have ever done that you could do yourself?

** What is the age and manufacturer of the motorhome?

Just curious to know what big ticket items RV folks have to plan for down the road.

Thanks Again :whistling:

amosnandy 10-15-2021 02:04 PM

In a class A, if it can break it will. Most expensive. $65,000. Pull the cover off and drive a different one under it. That's what I did.

Phil G. 10-16-2021 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Floridastorm (Post 5950910)
For those of you that have a Class C or a Class B motorhome only and where there is no warranty involved or it's out of warranty.

*What is the most expensive Repair or Replacement you have ever had to have done that you could not do yourself?

*What is the most expensive Repair or Replacement you have ever done that you could do yourself?

** What is the age and manufacturer of the motorhome?

Just curious to know what big ticket items RV folks have to plan for down the road.

Thanks Again :whistling:


A transmission replacement (that I would never attempt myself) in my 24 ft. Ford V10 E450 Class C cost around $5600 several years ago.

chs 10-16-2021 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amosnandy (Post 5951031)
In a class A, if it can break it will. Most expensive. $65,000. Pull the cover off and drive a different one under it. That's what I did.

For those of you that have a Class C or a Class B motorhome only

Soppy 10-16-2021 07:59 AM

On my old class C it was the initial safety inspection to transfer the title $65. All other repairs I can do myself so the only cost is parts.

youracman 10-16-2021 11:28 PM

To the OP:

Not a lot of items to list but here goes.

About 3 years ago: New front brakes (hub/rotor assy, calipers, pads, bearings, seals, fluids.) Brakes were not worn out, but my daughter warped the rotors braking in the mtns. Did myself for about $480 IIRC using parts from NAPA. Didn't replace the brake lines, but I should have. Took two short days to do what a mech would take 4 or 5 hours to do.... but then I turned 90 this August.

New 15K rooftop Coleman Mach A/C. Did myself (with all the roof-top stuff done by a strong great-nephew.) About $780 IIRC. I see these are up now to about $880. Took about 4 hours.

New rear brakes (all parts except the rotors which were fine). Did myself for about $250. Took the better part of a day.

I just self-installed a new color (hard wired) B/U camera and monitor. It was just under $500. A lot bigger and brighter than the OEM unit, so a nice upgrade. Took about 20 hours as I had to hand-make some hardware mounting stuff to make the new unit fit in the ceiling where the OEM unit was. (It looks "almost" factory.)

About 5 yrs ago, my Onan generator became v e r y hard to start and I decided the magneto needed replaced (very weak spark even with a new plug) so I bought a new factory magneto and then later decided I didn't want to undertake the repair (I work outside in the MH storage lot and winter was approaching) so I took it to the Cummins shop here in Denver where they have one guy who just works on Onans...only. I had done all the prep work so there were just 4 bolts to remove ..... then lower the genny. The repair was $600 and change. More now of course. The Onan has purred ever since.

Everything else I have done is nickel/dime stuff.....as far as repairs go.

The Ford has not had one dime spent on repairs (only 53K miles though.) I consider the brakes to be maintenance. A few (VERY few) owners have have documented pretty significant repairs on the E450 (like manifold bolts) but, were I you, I would not even think about budgeting for "repairs" on a low-mileage E450. Now if only the "house" were as "strong". lol

My elec/propane absorbtion-type refer will soon be 15 years old so it has probably about "done its due" (but it is currently working just fine.) A new one is around $1370 and I will self install (with grandson's help) when the time comes.

As has oft been stated on various RV forums "if you do your own wrenching" cost of ownership (sans depreciation) is not terrible. Having it all "hired done" at todays $120 per hour and up ........ different story.

I'm the 3rd owner. I'd take the plunge again. Made a ton of memories traveling.

Hope this helps some. Be safe.

chs 10-17-2021 05:56 AM

Lots of oil, differential and transmission fluid changes. So hopefully NO engine, transmission, or differential repairs. There is where the big buck happen.

Bobby F 10-17-2021 06:21 AM

1993 Class C 28'+ - bought 2yrs ago at 40k miles, now at 60k miles.

Most expensive repair (not renovation) that I did myself: Replaced battery isolation manager - $50.00

Most expensive (and only) repair that I'm going to let someone else do because I've turned into a lazy schlub: I'm getting a vibration as I go over the crest of hills, so I'm having someone else crawl under and replace U-joints and shaft carrier bearing - $250.00?

DonaC 10-18-2021 09:48 AM

A new Ford V10 engine long block, with installation, it came to about 11,000. Ouch. It could have been fixed for a lot less if a used or remanufactured engine had been put in.

Floridastorm 10-18-2021 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by youracman (Post 5952489)
To the OP:

Not a lot of items to list but here goes.

About 3 years ago: New front brakes (hub/rotor assy, calipers, pads, bearings, seals, fluids.) Brakes were not worn out, but my daughter warped the rotors braking in the mtns. Did myself for about $480 IIRC using parts from NAPA. Didn't replace the brake lines, but I should have. Took two short days to do what a mech would take 4 or 5 hours to do.... but then I turned 90 this August.

New 15K rooftop Coleman Mach A/C. Did myself (with all the roof-top stuff done by a strong great-nephew.) About $780 IIRC. I see these are up now to about $880. Took about 4 hours.

New rear brakes (all parts except the rotors which were fine). Did myself for about $250. Took the better part of a day.

I just self-installed a new color (hard wired) B/U camera and monitor. It was just under $500. A lot bigger and brighter than the OEM unit, so a nice upgrade. Took about 20 hours as I had to hand-make some hardware mounting stuff to make the new unit fit in the ceiling where the OEM unit was. (It looks "almost" factory.)

About 5 yrs ago, my Onan generator became v e r y hard to start and I decided the magneto needed replaced (very weak spark even with a new plug) so I bought a new factory magneto and then later decided I didn't want to undertake the repair (I work outside in the MH storage lot and winter was approaching) so I took it to the Cummins shop here in Denver where they have one guy who just works on Onans...only. I had done all the prep work so there were just 4 bolts to remove ..... then lower the genny. The repair was $600 and change. More now of course. The Onan has purred ever since.

Everything else I have done is nickel/dime stuff.....as far as repairs go.

The Ford has not had one dime spent on repairs (only 53K miles though.) I consider the brakes to be maintenance. A few (VERY few) owners have have documented pretty significant repairs on the E450 (like manifold bolts) but, were I you, I would not even think about budgeting for "repairs" on a low-mileage E450. Now if only the "house" were as "strong". lol

My elec/propane absorbtion-type refer will soon be 15 years old so it has probably about "done its due" (but it is currently working just fine.) A new one is around $1370 and I will self install (with grandson's help) when the time comes.

As has oft been stated on various RV forums "if you do your own wrenching" cost of ownership (sans depreciation) is not terrible. Having it all "hired done" at todays $120 per hour and up ........ different story.

I'm the 3rd owner. I'd take the plunge again. Made a ton of memories traveling.

Hope this helps some. Be safe.

Yes, repairs and maintenance are a heck of a lot less expensive if you can do the work yourself which I am not able to do. :sad:

Floridastorm 10-18-2021 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonaC (Post 5954056)
A new Ford V10 engine long block, with installation, it came to about 11,000. Ouch. It could have been fixed for a lot less if a used or remanufactured engine had been put in.

Wow, that is what I am talking about :facepalm:

Bill Gail 10-18-2021 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Floridastorm (Post 5950910)
For those of you that have a Class C or a Class B motorhome only and where there is no warranty involved or it's out of warranty.

*What is the most expensive Repair or Replacement you have ever had to have done that you could not do yourself?

*What is the most expensive Repair or Replacement you have ever done that you could do yourself?

** What is the age and manufacturer of the motorhome?

Just curious to know what big ticket items RV folks have to plan for down the road.

Thanks Again :whistling:


2000 Tioga 24D Class C

Had our generator carburator replaced to the tune of $600.

Had the sparkplugs replaced on our V10 that cost $600 .

Frontend alignment with adjustable bushings and new upper balljoints for $600 .

Does anyone notice a theme developing ?

Then we get into my DIY projects ,

- HD Sway bars
- Firestone airbags
- Roadmaster steering stabilizer ,
- 5 Star Tuner
- Rear Camera
- New Digital AV controller
- New Smart Converter / Charger
- Change House12v batteries to 6v GC Deep Cycle batteries
- Change interior lighting to LED
- Install electric conversion to HW Tank
- Reinforced rear frame at tow hitch
- Installed ScanGauge

I'm sure I missed a few , but I think this makes the point that our coaches are in a constant mode of upgrade and improvement.

Buying a MH is not a logical decision . There's not one financial advisor that would encourage someone to purchase a MH , but saying that , I've never seen a MH parked in front of a psychologists office.

Capt Steve 10-18-2021 03:55 PM

After 8+ years and 69,000+ miles...
 
About 2 years ago I had a catastrophic blowout {the outside dually on the drivers side}. The Michelin LT MX2 tire was 5.5 years old and was inspected by Discount Tire the day before. They said they were fine and I had them aired up for the load they were carrying.

We were on I-10 westbound about 30 miles west of Phoenix, not a hot day as it was late October. I did not hit any debris it just grenaded, blowing the wheel well right up through the floor of the our 2012 24' Class C. The final repair bill was $4,181 but happily GEICO paid it less my $500 deductible. They even wrote me a separate check {$250} for the tire that failed.

Other repairs were few and far between... a new control board for the furnace a few years back and that came to around $250. Recently replaced the original Suburban water heater as it was having electrical problems for the second time in 8+ years and that was $550 + $200 for the install. I re[placed the original Dometic toilet a few years ago when a new one {$250} wasn't much more than the repair kit.

After 8+ years and 69,000 mostly trouble free miles I remain a very happy camper.

:dance:

sibe 10-18-2021 07:03 PM

Thank god I am a DIY guy and have the means or I would not be RVing.. I have had some zingers..

my short bus 21ft RV ,, 460 ford mid 90s.. I was maintained by an old Nascar driver, never saw snow, garaged,,,
well it developed the trans OD skip, shutter,, shift erratic, then 2nd gear limp mode.. this was for months, happen then maybe not for weeks or 3 times a trip..
Tranny time I was told by 3 shops I deal with...
short story is my sons auto tech teacher said check the circuit at the PSOD, odometer module with a real scope,, jack up back and run it ,have someone under it to wiggle harness etc..
OK freyed wire in a splice that poked thru tape and also grounded to frame.. it picked my hand as i grabbed harness.. I bought new odometer cluster psod.. new speed sensors.. thru parts at it, urgh.

It always had a stumble at idle, surge,, ran fine.. one day, turned it off, next morning went to move it.. started billowed black smoke, barely moved..

Local mechanic, threw, map, tps, fuel reg, same thing.. Well got same tech teacher on it,, gave me a break out box for computer,, after 2 days of playing, found bad temp sensor,, shorted internally.. then that lead to getting a bad reference voltage in PCM when more than 3 sensors in loop. 6 sensors are in loop.. BAD PCM.. $485 and all good plus new parts $235.. and my hours and favors to teacher.. LOL

Then we had a cooling issue, I ran it hard, popped hose, had no choice to stay on gas till a safe point .. oil crackling in motor.. That turned into pulling front of motor off, timing cover warped,, all new cooling . hoses, rad, water pump, timing chain belts..... and more while i was in there,, Had about $2600 in wholesale parts, 2 saturdays and a sunday to complete.. sold it last year, still going 216K, just did a trip to colorado from PA. OH problem was a blocked cat conv.. that was $280 for pipe/muffier,delete job..

Did I learn, NO

Got a newer Minnie, 460 29RQ, less than 29K on clock..

Same trans issue on way home, short behind dash.. Conv clogged after 2nd trip... then compete brakes,, also did cooling.. All from not being used, low miles can be a curse..
..

So RVing is fun.. keeps you busy.. my journey is self inflicted as I am cheap or just make a living no more but love to camp and tinker...


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