Community Forums

Ken Davis · 06-20-2020, 08:44 AM

Need to replace the electric heating element in my 2013 Canyon Star 3920.

Has anyone successfully done this without removing the water heater first? It seems like if I cut away a section of the Styrofoam insulation I may be able to slip it out from the back without cutting the silicone seal between the front of the water heater and the painted body necessary to pull the whole unit out first.

2Newsomes · 06-20-2020, 09:02 AM

I don't know what your installation looks like but I cannot imagine having to remove the entire water heater to replace the heating element. Maybe post some pictures of your installation.

Skip426 · 06-20-2020, 09:12 AM

Different brands of W/H s have the element in different ends of the tank , Is your W/H , Attwood or Suburban ?

Ken Davis · 06-20-2020, 09:46 AM

It's an Atwood. The heating element fits from the back of the unit, assuming you call what you access from the exterior panel the front. I can reach to where it is from the storage compartment beside it but at a minimum I would have to cut out a portion of the Styrofoam to remove the access cover and get to the element.

Was hoping to hear from another owner with the same install to know whether there is enough clearance back there to slip the element out and the new one in. The element appears to be about 3-4" longer than the distance from the back of the heater to the wall. It's a question of how much of an angle it can be turned to and still slide out or into the opening.

Yes, trying to cut through the silicone sealant between the edges of the whole unit and the painted exterior body seems really risky.

Sorry the photo went sideways when I uploaded it.

Skip426 · 06-20-2020, 10:02 AM

I've only done one Atwood element install but that looks like more than enough room to slide the part out. Pretty sure no cutting of the insulation will be required.

Do you have a socket ( 1 1/2" six point 1/2" drive ) the element tool that RV parts places sell is useless .
I bought the socket at AutoZone after breaking the " Tool " $8 if memory serves.

NOTE: even with the tank completely drained , you'll get water into the area when the element comes out .. be ready .

Skip426 · 06-20-2020, 10:06 AM

Another note , the water line connectors , have a cone shaped seal , that after years of heat from the water , won't always reseal if you have to remove the lines . The seals are about $0.40 each and a good thing to have in your RV tool box.

Skip426 · 06-20-2020, 12:06 PM

A THIRD thought , boy am I not getting it together this morning .

The electric elements ( 120 volt 1440 watts ) are available in different lengths from different manufacturers , some tanks like my Suburban , length isn't an issue . The Camco element I have in my tool box measures 6" overall , I don't have a long one to measure but I'd think 9" , so if your replacement measures over 6" and your worried about installation , maybe look for the short version .
They're available at hardware stores as well as RV parts suppliers. You just need to be sure you get 120 volt model.

AutoZone socket part number , in case you need it ; Duralast 1 1/2 " 1/2" drive. 75-818

Ken Davis · 06-20-2020, 02:56 PM

That's a great idea. Yes, the OEM replacement is more like 9". Going to take a shot at it tomorrow if it's not raining.

Ken Davis · 06-22-2020, 10:53 AM

Did the swap out yesterday. Getting the plastic cover off and back on that encloses the wiring connections and such was more work than the actual element replacement which went just fine. Really a tight spot back there. Water heats with electric now as it should instead of just with propane. Thanks for the help!