Community Forums

Bajanbounder · 12-16-2019, 05:01 AM

Water Heater working on gas properly. Not working on electric.All breakers, fuses and switches checked . All ok.
Can I access Heater element to check without removing entire water heater ?
Suggestions welcome.
2012 Bounder 35K with Atwood 10GC 4e WH.
(I have kit with thermostats, element and igniter ready, should they be required.
Thanks, Dave A

mrv8outboard · 12-16-2019, 06:35 AM

Yes you should be able to. Test for AC voltage at the heating element. If you need an element you can get one at Home Depot or Lowes or a plumbing supply.

Ljwt330 · 12-16-2019, 09:05 AM

On an Atwood, the heating element is typically accessed from the back side so ease of access will depend on where and how, in your coach, the heater is installed. Someone with a like coach may offer up some specific details and confirm whether or not the heater must be removed.

Bajanbounder · 12-16-2019, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ljwt330

On an Atwood, the heating element is typically accessed from the back side so ease of access will depend on where and how, in your coach, the heater is installed. Someone with a like coach may offer up some specific details and confirm whether or not the heater must be removed.

Thanks a million. Found a hinged small bottom access door held by 3 screws at bottom of steel insert that contains water heater. Provides full access to element and plumbing.
Thus afternoons job.
Thanks.
Dave A.

Deep Water D · 12-16-2019, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrv8outboard

Yes you should be able to. Test for AC voltage at the heating element. If you need an element you can get one at Home Depot or Lowes or a plumbing supply.

Testing for voltage will only tell you that you have or don't have voltage. You have to check amp draw to verify the element is working correctly.

Gary RVRoamer · 12-16-2019, 03:09 PM

99% of the time a failed element will be shorted or open, so you can check that with a continuity (ohms) test (120v power should be off).

KF5UMC · 12-17-2019, 04:12 PM

Most likely the tank was bypassed or no water in the tank. If so the element will over heat and go off like a firecracker. Or just worn out.
Turn off the electric water heater breaker and 12 vdc panel switch (this switch goes to a relay that when turned on, allows 120VAC to the element).

Drain the tank with kitchen hot water running. Once you feel cold water, turn off the main water supply. Open the drain plug to empty the tank. Replace the drain plug. Now it's lighter and easy to move the tank outward if you need to.

Remove the 2 wires from the heating element. You will need a BIG socket I think 1 1/4" inch or better. You will then remove the element. Install the new element, install the 2 AC wires, turn on the main water, check for leaks.

Turn on the 120 VAC water heater breaker, have some one turn on the 12 VDC panel switch and you listen for a CLICK. This is the hot water relay energizing. No CLICK replace the relay after you verify there is 12 volts on the coil.
Hope this helps.
Good Luck
John

KF5UMC · 12-17-2019, 04:21 PM

Also if the old element is crusted over, you should also get a water tank wand and flush the tank out...I had better success at this with the heating element OUT. Drag a water hose into the coach and use the wand inside where the element goes with the drain plug OFF.
John

KF5UMC · 12-17-2019, 04:44 PM

I should have mentioned this first...I had a problem with hot water using electric. It was a bad thermostat mounted on the right side of the outside of the water tank.

Check this first. Turn off the 12 vdc electric switch off, unplug the 2 wires connected to the right hand thermostat. Turn on the 12 vdc switch and measure 12 vdc on the 2 wires that connect to the thermostat. If no 12 vdc, the problem is elsewhere. If 12 vdc is present, the thermostat is bad.

Hope I haven't overloaded you or the readers...John

Old-Biscuit · 12-17-2019, 04:51 PM

Your Atwood uses ONE set of t-stat/ECO for temp control on propane/electric
Propane works..not a thermal fuse or t-stat/ECO problem

Issue will be on/at element control

Backside of WH Tank is a protective cover ...under which is the DC Relay used to trigger the 120VAC to element.
Common failure is at Relay---AC wires melted.
Another common fail point is the Ground Wire ----attaches to stud on tank---breaks off

Both good then check continuity of element
With 120VAC Circuit Breaker Open
Remove Black & white wires from element
Voltmeter---test continuity between Black & White terminals
NO Continuity----element bad

Voltmeter...test continuity between White terminal and element flange
Got continuity...element shorted

New element is a 1400W 9 1/2" long
1 1/2" thin walled 6 point socket to R/R element
Check that you have a new gasket wih new element

RV Mfg design engineers should have to do a 6 month appreticeship working on repairs PRIOR to being allowed to design ANYTHING!!!

Bajanbounder · 12-18-2019, 07:32 PM

Thanks to everyone. 1 1/2 in element removal socket bought at Home Depot $6.00.
New element purchased and installed at rear of tank through hinged access doors.
As described above element was fried as a result of not opening by-pass valve before sending power to heater.
Inexpensive fix with a kit that included element, thermostats, and igniter. Thanks to all
Dave A.