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Old 01-30-2011, 05:39 PM   #29
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I'm afraid I'll have to agree with the "get the Norcold out" crowd if Norcold's only solution is to completely and irrevocably (without their intervention) disable the fridge if it gets too hot. And that seems to be all the "solution" is.

Every man-made object comes packaged with some risk or danger. If that risk or danger is purposely designed in, all other discussions about secondary causes are moot.

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Old 02-12-2011, 05:19 AM   #30
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You may have it right Steve this POST may bare out what you have said.
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:48 AM   #31
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Great thread - I had no idea about the Norcold. I was thinking of replacing my Dometic with one but now I think I will just replace the cooling unit and leave well enough alone. I appreciate the video too - very helpful in knowing what I am getting in to.
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:12 PM   #32
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After all this discussion of Amish cooling units, Norcold recalls, and ammonia vs. Freon-based systems, I think it's funny that the OP's original concern seems to have been the unit not getting cold enough on hot days. In my experience, the most common cause of that is too little airflow over the back of the refrigerator, which can usually be solved by adding (or replacing) a couple of small computer fans. A whole lot cheaper than replacing the unit, if that's the case ...
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Old 03-08-2011, 01:41 PM   #33
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Mike I think his biggest concern was the cooling unit failing when it was increasing in temperature when it never really cooled correctly in the first place with the cooling fans the 1200 had.
The recalls do not address the ruptured cooling coils only protects Norcold hopes by cutting off power to fridge to stop a fire.
A recent post by someone has said their fix didn't work for someone with second recall done, they lost their coach in a fire.
So some of us are replacing with the Amish unit which requires no recalls and cools allot better than a replacement Norcold unit.
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Old 03-08-2011, 05:42 PM   #34
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Quote:
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Take a look here and it will go through a simple version of the cycle of How the ammonia works in our refrigerators.

HowStuffWorks "Gas and Propane Refrigerators"

I was told it was actually Hydrogen Sulfide (the "yellow" stuff that stains the tubing when there's a leak in a cooling unit) It helps prevent the ammonia from corroding the steel tubing during the process but also makes the mixture volatile.
If TXiceman shows up he can probably tell us exactly what it is. But sure it DOES contain Hydrogen. . . . the same stuff that they put in the German Zeppelin HINDENBURG Airship that blew up in the 1937.
Great link, thanks. I really am interested in "Coolbot" for window AC's used in walkins.
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:21 PM   #35
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I know I am going to add a couple of 12v PC fans, they are cheap and if it makes any difference, they are well worth it.
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Old 04-13-2011, 05:05 AM   #36
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So why do the manufacturers continue to put this junk in RVs...???
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:10 PM   #37
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Quote:
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So why do the manufacturers continue to put this junk in RVs...???
Because it's cheap. The difference in what we as consumers pay for a replacement refrigerator and what the RV manufacturers pay for hundreds of units on a per unit basis is remarkable.
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Old 04-16-2011, 05:17 AM   #38
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The following link is the best write-up and pictorial of how a RV or gas absorption refrigerator actually works.

Cooling Unit (How it works)

The following link is a great write-up of how your rear cooling unit should be vented to get the most efficiency from your unit.

Gas/Electric Fridge Venting

I have attached a photo of the cooling system and how it functions.

I also have a recent iRV2 thread asking for any RV owners that have switched out their old Norcold cooling units for the Amish built unit as to what their opinions are of the performance and efficiency of the Amish unit.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/amish...old-89564.html

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Old 06-09-2011, 12:01 AM   #39
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Tires Used to be 7 years ; Then after a few accidents. It was lowered to 3 years;
Where did you get that piece of misinformation?
Michelin says at least 5 years then inspect yearly and if found good during the inspections the finally replace at 10 years. They put it in writing so I think they have a good handle on it. Here's the link to Michelins tire life paper
I got 8˝ years out of original OEM Michelins (made in Spain). And I'm pretty sure they were in good shape. Had some cracks, but still within Michelins guidelines.
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Old 06-09-2011, 12:05 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
The following link is the best write-up and pictorial of how a RV or gas absorption refrigerator actually works.

Cooling Unit (How it works)

The following link is a great write-up of how your rear cooling unit should be vented to get the most efficiency from your unit.

Gas/Electric Fridge Venting

I have attached a photo of the cooling system and how it functions.

I also have a recent iRV2 thread asking for any RV owners that have switched out their old Norcold cooling units for the Amish built unit as to what their opinions are of the performance and efficiency of the Amish unit.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/amish...old-89564.html

Dr4Film ----- Richard.
I put in the Amish unit in our 1062 Dometic last month. I get 10° in the freezer on setting 4 (out of 5) even on an 85° day. I've also never heard the aux cooling fan (refer is in a slide out so no natural chimney effect) run at all. Before the conversion the fan ran almost all the time, even in 65° weather.
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Old 08-18-2011, 04:45 PM   #41
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Can anyone tell me at what temperature the condenser cooling fans thermostat enables the two fans?
I am having trouble keeping my Norcold 1200LRIM on line. I have 12 vdc power leaving the control box but neither fans run.
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Old 08-19-2011, 03:35 AM   #42
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Can anyone tell me at what temperature the condenser cooling fans thermostat enables the two fans?

I am having trouble keeping my Norcold 1200LRIM on line. I have 12 vdc power leaving the control box but neither fans run.
Ken,

The temperature of Snap Disc located on the very first top cooling fin at the rear of the Norcold is set for 130F to come on. Not sure at what temperature it is set to go off, though.

What do you mean by "having trouble keeping my Norcold 1200LRIM on line" ?? Are you losing 120 Volt AC power, is the thing just not keeping stuff cold, what exactly are your referring to?

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