Community Forums

hugh37 · 07-10-2019, 02:05 PM

At four years ownership and 25,000 miles, I changed for the first time the Air Cleaner Element on my 2015 Dutch Star today. By far, it was NOT a piece of cake. Next time will be easier, no doubt, as experience generally proves the case to be. It was such an unpleasant task that, if I can have it done by a reputable facility for a couple hundred dollars, I may well decide to let them handle it. (And I perform a great deal of my maintenance).The location of my filter may make it more difficult, having to stand on a stool/ladder, and to reach deeply into the engine compartment. I found the several bands extremely difficult to loosen, once unscrewed using a deep socket. That accounted for a great part of the time involved. I relied on the "filter minder" to alert me to change time. While it was only at the halfway mark, I chose to go ahead with the changeout. Not surprisingly, I found a pretty good-looking filter...seeing the condition (and I gave it a serious look), I would have waited a bit longer. And I'm familiar with the risks, of even going over two years. My one question: Even though I did a painstaking job, I'm lacking the confidence I would like to expect there will be NO leaks around the bands. I feel I positioned the filter sufficiently into the rubber joints (with the bands) before well- tightening. What can I do to test for that...anything? Thanks, in advance, for your thoughts. Larry

JBDISCOVERY · 07-10-2019, 02:28 PM

If your filter is similar to the one on our Freightliner chassis, the design should provide the protection needed.
Our filter has a metal barrel with waffle pattern plastic/fiberglass internal sleeve which traps the foreign materials.
One end, the outlet, has a metal sleeve that fits into the air duct going to the turbo.
The clamp for that joint is a robust spring assisted bolted deal. I torque it to
a firm level. The inlet is not as beefy. Just a flexible duct that covers over the inlet joint and clamped with a large hose clamp.
Yes, a good deal of work to change out. Worth the effort if you have ever visited IRV2 sites dealing with "dusted engines".
You are right, do it once, next time is easier. Three filters on our Discovery.
Take care,
JimB

hugh37 · 07-10-2019, 02:52 PM

Thanks, JimB...appears our filters are a bit different. The rear part of my filter that goes into the turbo is quite difficult to reach and deal with. I'm just hoping I got it sufficiently into the rubber portion of the system having the band. I'm satisfied I tightened the band OK.

lwmcguire · 07-10-2019, 03:23 PM

I would compare the filter minder reading before and after

Also if you recall the reading from several years ago

The new filter should still show some restriction

Dutch Star Don · 07-10-2019, 04:01 PM

"hugh37"....On your old filter, there should be a line where the rubber boot was on the filter from age. Measure that line, to the underside of the filter and then compare it to the distance on the new filter. This should tell you if you pushed it in far enough.

*****I have a recommendation to anyone changing the filter on a Freightliner. The day before you change the filter, rinse off the dirt at the front of the air filter where the rubber hose fits between the air filter and the turbo.

When disconnecting the boots, disconnect the boot between the filter and the turbo, at the TURBO, not at the filter. Remove the filter, remove the rubber boot and reinstall on the new filter and then reinstall the filter. Here's why and you'll understand if you look at the boot. The boot is vertical and can collect debris at the top of the boot between the boot and air cleaner. While you're wiggling and trying to remove the air cleaner, that dirt can fall into the turbo. If you disconnect at the turbo, the boot goes over the opening and there is less chance of getting dirt into the turbo.

TonyMac · 07-10-2019, 04:15 PM

Starting fluid. Start the engine, spray the suspect joints with staring fluid. If they find a leak, you'll hear the engine rpm increase a bit.

tom chelbana · 07-10-2019, 05:27 PM

Both Cummins and Newmar are recommending air filter changes ever year. There have been some Cummins engines that had their turbo either damaged or need to replaced because the paper in the air filter has come apart and gone into turbo. The problem is that water gets into air filter and allows the glue which hold it together to come apart. Might check by cutting air filter open to see if glue is still hold filter material together.
On our Essex we installed a K&N air filter which we used for over 10 years and 120K miles and just did our 18 LA with another K&N.
Newmar Man

lakebuster · 07-10-2019, 07:56 PM

I did my own on the 17 LA on a Spartan chassis. I finished looking like I had been attacked by an alley cat. They should re-design this, making metal housing permanent, then just remove inlet hose and pull out outer filter and inner filter as on our large tractor. Removing the outlet boot or inlet to turbo is a Royal pain...

Dutch Star Don · 07-10-2019, 08:05 PM

I use to change mine every year on my Diplomat, but have since changed to a two year regiment. We average between 10K and 15K a year.

Tom is right about the glue coming apart, but I don't recall or have ever heard Cummins recommend a one year interval, maybe they've changed. The information I have read has been a three year max and don't stockpile them.....meaning don't buy one on sale and save it for a year or so.

To me, even though they're expensive, it's cheap insurance to change them frequently

tom chelbana · 07-10-2019, 08:20 PM

On a 18 LA with a Spartan chassis it is a 15 min. air filter change.
Newmar Man

10 fan · 07-10-2019, 08:31 PM

I would never use starting fluid on a diesel.

tom chelbana · 07-10-2019, 08:45 PM

The information from Cummins is from seminars at both FMCA and Newmar Kountry Klub rallies. Spartan also has the 1 year air filter change with paper filters.
Newmar Man

Dutch Star Don · 07-10-2019, 08:49 PM

That's what I liked about my Diplomat. The air cleaner was in a bay with a three wingnut cover. The paper element was a third of the canister price.

TonyMac · 07-11-2019, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 10 fan

I would never use starting fluid on a diesel.

Then don't. But starting fluid has been used in diesels for decades. And I'm not talking about filing the air cleaner with it, I'm saying use it to find a leaking intake in a running engine. Again, mechanics have been doing it for decades. You don't have to if you don't want to, but it will find intake leaks efficiently and effectively.