Community Forums

Oemtech · 10-02-2007, 03:33 PM

After seeing Glenn Norman's (Mutha) LCHW50 installation and reading a number of reports of fried electronics from power surges and low voltages I decided to add a Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW50 to my rig. I searched the net for the best price and that was Tweedys. But, due to the fact the RV Upgrades sponsors IRV2 I bought it from them even though it was $10 more.

Installation was not all that hard. Mine took about 1/2 of a day, only because I had to fab and install some mounting brackets.

You have 2 install options.

1) You can install it by moving the shore power cable to the input side of the LCHW50 and the output side of the LCHW50 becomes the input to the transfer switch. But, this does not protect the coach from the generator.

2) You can also take output side of the transfer switch to the input side of the LCHW50. Then the output side of the LCHW50 become input to the coach. This is protects the coach from both shore power and the generator. This is the method I chose.

Method 1 is by far the easiest. Move the power cord and add a set of jumper wires from the LCHW50 to the transfer switch. This allows you to mount the control box just about anywhere you want.

Method 2 can be of a pain as you are limited to where the LCHW50 can be mounted. Why? It depends on how your coach manufacturer wired the transfer switch. In my case I had to mount the LCHW50 control box close to the output side from the transfer switch due to the fact that Newmar didn't leave any excess wire going from the transfer switch to the coach control panel. They also have a metal mounting plate for the transfer switch and the wire is enclosed (no access from the back side). I solved this problem by making a set of mounting brackets and mounting the LCHW50 in the vertical position. It should be noted that the LCHW50 control box can be mounted in any orientation as the display panel can be inserted in 4 different directions.

Before you get started you will need to buy some #6 wire to wire in the LCHW50 control box. 5' or 6' of wire will be enough. You will need 1 black, 1 red, 1 white and 1 green. The green wire can be #8 and/or it can be bare (no green cover). I would suggest that you also get some form of wire cover. It can be the gray flexible or the black split wire cover. You will also need some form of mounting system (self tapping screws, nuts, bolts, washers etc). Of course you will need a good set of hand tools, wire strippers, drill, drill bits etc.

The very first thing you need to do is DISCONNECT THE POWER and follow the instructions that come with the unit.

Here are some photos of the install.

Transfer Switch

EMS-LCHW50

Completed Install

On Edit:
Fixed a some spelling errors and add some verbage for clarity.

Oemtech · 10-02-2007, 03:33 PM

After seeing Glenn Norman's (Mutha) LCHW50 installation and reading a number of reports of fried electronics from power surges and low voltages I decided to add a Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW50 to my rig. I searched the net for the best price and that was Tweedys. But, due to the fact the RV Upgrades sponsors IRV2 I bought it from them even though it was $10 more.

Installation was not all that hard. Mine took about 1/2 of a day, only because I had to fab and install some mounting brackets.

You have 2 install options.

1) You can install it by moving the shore power cable to the input side of the LCHW50 and the output side of the LCHW50 becomes the input to the transfer switch. But, this does not protect the coach from the generator.

2) You can also take output side of the transfer switch to the input side of the LCHW50. Then the output side of the LCHW50 become input to the coach. This is protects the coach from both shore power and the generator. This is the method I chose.

Method 1 is by far the easiest. Move the power cord and add a set of jumper wires from the LCHW50 to the transfer switch. This allows you to mount the control box just about anywhere you want.

Method 2 can be of a pain as you are limited to where the LCHW50 can be mounted. Why? It depends on how your coach manufacturer wired the transfer switch. In my case I had to mount the LCHW50 control box close to the output side from the transfer switch due to the fact that Newmar didn't leave any excess wire going from the transfer switch to the coach control panel. They also have a metal mounting plate for the transfer switch and the wire is enclosed (no access from the back side). I solved this problem by making a set of mounting brackets and mounting the LCHW50 in the vertical position. It should be noted that the LCHW50 control box can be mounted in any orientation as the display panel can be inserted in 4 different directions.

Before you get started you will need to buy some #6 wire to wire in the LCHW50 control box. 5' or 6' of wire will be enough. You will need 1 black, 1 red, 1 white and 1 green. The green wire can be #8 and/or it can be bare (no green cover). I would suggest that you also get some form of wire cover. It can be the gray flexible or the black split wire cover. You will also need some form of mounting system (self tapping screws, nuts, bolts, washers etc). Of course you will need a good set of hand tools, wire strippers, drill, drill bits etc.

The very first thing you need to do is DISCONNECT THE POWER and follow the instructions that come with the unit.

Here are some photos of the install.

Transfer Switch

EMS-LCHW50

Completed Install

On Edit:
Fixed a some spelling errors and add some verbage for clarity.

Darryl · 10-02-2007, 04:14 PM

Dale, nice writeup and pics!

HarveyP · 10-02-2007, 05:10 PM

Dale, Way to go! I did an almost identical install, but did not have the technical savvy to post pictures. Thanks for doing such a great job. HarveyP

RV Wizard · 10-03-2007, 12:51 AM

Dale, you will never regret installing the surge protection. Good write up and pictures too!

paz · 10-03-2007, 03:43 AM

Dale, nice writeup and great photos.

As you say, method 1 doesn't protect the coach from problems with the generator. The problem with method 2 that I don't see mentioned is it doesn't protect the transfer switch from surges. I have read about transfer switches getting fried. However, this is the method I also used because I felt it was the better way to go. In my case, it was easier than method 1 due to the location of my power cable and the way it exits the rig. It would have been difficult to relocate it to where I had to mount the surge protector.

Oemtech · 10-03-2007, 03:47 AM

Short update.

I tested the generator function and it works perfectly. Speaking of the generator, discovered a few things.

1) I have a 7k Onan and the output lines (input to the transfer switch) are only 10 gage wire. I would have thought that they would at least use 8 gage.

2) I would let the generator run a few minutes with a light load before you turn you AC's, electric heaters or other heavy draw appliances. I was watching the display and the voltage varied along with the cycles. But, once the generator was up to speed and had a load it settled in to 60 hertz and 120 volts.

Also there is a built in 15 sec or 136 sec delay before the power is allowed to flow to the control panel. Along with this delay there is a loud click when the EMS kicks in. This is normal also. Lastly there is a slight humm to the unit. Again normal operation.

Triton · 10-03-2007, 04:31 PM

Nice Job.
Now, where does the autoformer go?

Franks or Hughes Autoformer,
LCHW50 Surge Protector,
Transfer Switch?

or

Autoformer,
Transfer switch,
LCHW50 Surge Protector?

Wouldn't it be nice if the LCHW50 Surge Protector had Autoformer capability as well?

Thanks

Oemtech · 10-04-2007, 10:19 AM

Paz,
As for protecting the transfer switch you would almost have to have 2 surge protectors...

Triton,
I would think....

Autoformer, LCHW50 Surge Protector, Transfer Switch would be for method 1
and
Autoformer, Transfer Switch, LCHW50 Surge Protector wolud be for method 2.

paz · 10-04-2007, 01:55 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by oemtech:
Paz,
As for protecting the transfer switch you would almost have to have 2 surge protectors... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Method 1 in your first post will protect the transfer switch from surges...but it won't protect the coach from problems with the generator. My point was, you would have to choose.