1988 Honey restore/update

[Carlos88]

The wife and I bought this beauty .



She already looked to be in good shape but the back wall was totally rotted out. This is what it looked like before I tore it all down.

This is what it looks like after I took everything down. .

Since I had to take almost everything out to see how bad the wall was, the wife and I decided to just redo the whole room.

I will update as improvements come.

I will happily take and suggestions on wall panels,flooring, and ways to jazz up the cabinets.

Also should I switch to foam insulation or keep using the fiberglass?

[Carlos88]

Here's a list of other issues I've discovered.

Trans leak (doesn't seem to be from the pan&#128543

Gas smell under hood (I assume mechanical pump leak)

currently gen doesn't start but I know nothing abt getting one started. All I did was push the switch a few times it cranks but no start. The guy I got it for said it hasn't been started in a long while but it worked when he last used it. It has 230 hrs on it.


I think one of the water tanks leaked because there's a soft spot in the floor under where it was.

There definitely moister on the passenger side of the over head bunk but idk how bad it is yet.

[Bigd9]

Good looking mature coach!

I would stick to fiberglass because it conforms to odd ball surfaces better, and is more fire resistant.

[Carlos88]

Thanks. For the suggestion. Any idea what R grade/rating?

[Carlos88]

I posted some questions here. But I thought I would add the link to this thread in hopes more people will see it... http://www.irv2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=324485

[Bigd9]

My understanding is R rating is directly proportional the the thickness. S measure the wall cavity. Don't over stuff or compact the insulation to much. It does much better loose.

[Carlos88]

That's good info because my play was to stuff it. Lol

[Bigd9]

First off, I am not a fiberglass expert, just a handyman repeating what my Daddy told me a gazillion years ago.

According to the attached, you can compress fiberglass insulation a little. If you do, the stated R value on the batt will be reduced, but the overall insulating value is increased.......or something like that. Looks like I learned something today!


http://insulationinstitute.org/wp-co...d_R_values.pdf

[sam-3]

I'm not an expert. Here is what we did to restore our 25ft. 1990 HiLo. We had alot of wall water damage. Strip your wall all the way back to the fiber glass. Bondo the inside wall/fiberglass. This will seal up any pinpoint holes you can't even see. Take your windows out and reseal with butyl tape and lexal caulk. Heavy Duty liquid nails worked well for putting your wall layers together. Cheapest at Walmart. Lexal caulk can be purchased at Ace hardware or on line.We used sheets of foam insulation. Pink insulation will get wet and sag. Start by putting cardboard on all of your floors. Use duct tape to make seams. Cover your counter tops. If you can tearout around your windows and use pieces for a pattern. Take pictures and post. Label and put in baggie hardware. Take pictures of curtain hardware ect. This comes in handy some months later for reinstall. Replace any screws with Stainless steel ones. Look at HD or Lowes for thin paneling with the wallpaper already on it. Also look on line for wall material ideas. Our water damage was mostly because we didn't know to remove all windows and put in Buty tape. The Lexal caulk costs about 8.00 a tube. Worth every penny. Have fun and play some good music as you work.

[Carlos88]

Update. Here's what we did this weekend. scary looking right?

Once we had the outside shell off we were able to start rebuilding the frames for the wall.

We also use this opportunity to use epoxy to fix some cracks in piece of fiberglass we took off. We lined up the crack piece and layered the inside of the shell with epoxy. Once it cured it held up well.

Here's s tip by beer and food and invite friends you will need extra hands. Also I left the tail lights attached to the shell so I just labels and snipped the wires and will reattach them when I put the shell back on.

I should have taken more photos. Sorry

[Double B]

Looking great, looking forward to watching this project.

Keep us posted with tons of pictures.

[Carlos88]

UPDATE- okay. Here is what it looked like.

Then it looked like this

Now it looks like this

I think most of the water came in from a rip in the fiberglass where the ladder was attached. We patched that rip up with epoxy. Left a think layer over the rip on the inside hoping it will hold up once we reattach the ladder.

In the last picture you can see on the passenger side I added 2 2X4s in between the 2X2s that that go all the way across. When i 1st took the wall down I saw that the ladder was attached with screws to nothing but the fiberglass. In those 2 places. It was still pretty secure. I guess the top part and the bottom part are securely fasten but that wasn't enough for me so I added the 2 2X4s so when I reattach the ladder they it will have wood in those places to hold on to.

[Bigd9]

Boy oh boy, you sure have done a lot of work on that baby. I commend you for attempting this project. Just think, after this, you could probably go into the home building business.

[Carlos88]

UPDATE: I reattached all the wires that I cut and rebuilt the secured structure that hold the back lights in place... strange thing there are 2 white cables/wires that were not attached to anything. I know I didn't cut them because they didn't have clean cuts. They were striped as if they were attached to a wire but but I didn't remove any wire nuts. All the lights on the bottom work. (Running lights-break lights- reverse light) but the top lights are not coming in but I can't tell for the life of me why not and if those 2 white wires are the problem I can't tell where they are suppose to go.

I laid down some flooring for the cargo area under the bed. This is what it looks like now